Power Meter advice!

RagingAlcoholic
RagingAlcoholic Posts: 10
edited September 2014 in Road buying advice
Good morning folks!

At present I am finding it difficult somewhat to monitor my progress in training. Of course the use of a HRM always helps, but I have always had strong interests in purchasing a power meter. From what I have read from Joe Friel, it is the best piece of kit you can buy for the bike.

I'm only on a winter steed at the moment, but I do intend to purchase or have built up a bike by next spring. I'd like a power meter but can they be used on both bikes?

Are there any power meters out there that are reasonably priced, accurate, and able to use on more than one bike?

Do you have a power meter, and if so, how much importance does it have to your training/cycling?

Comments

  • cougie
    cougie Posts: 22,512
    Get a powertap wireless one and its built into the wheel.

    I have one but apart from racing - its of most use inside on a turbo for proper sessions. Outside it just really records my long Sunday rides. I guess it depends how you ride/train.

    If you have a turbo then you can use theoretical power and a training app like trainerroad and that would be the best bang for your buck.
  • After reviewing the leading power meters, I recommend Stages for the need you describe.
  • cougie
    cougie Posts: 22,512
    I think its harder swapping a crank over than a wheel surely ?
  • Indeed, but sounds like the OP is going have winter and spring/summer/fall bikes. Likely to have different wheels for winter rather than switching between two. If he'll use just one rear wheel then PT is a good option, especially if he gets wheel built up with it rather than changing current hub out.
  • Indeed, but sounds like the OP is going have winter and spring/summer/fall bikes. Likely to have different wheels for winter rather than switching between two. If he'll use just one rear wheel then PT is a good option, especially if he gets wheel built up with it rather than changing current hub out.

    Indeed. Hopefully by spring I should have two bikes - winter training bike and a half decent carbon bike (maybe Canyon CF or something).

    Would like to be able to use the power meter on both bikes. As far as wheels go, as long as they are decent and durable and perform relatively well then I wouldn't mind.

    Should I try renting out a power meter first?
  • Grill
    Grill Posts: 5,610
    Power2Max is the best option, especially considering the recent price drop.
    English Cycles V3 | Cervelo P5 | Cervelo T4 | Trek Domane Koppenberg
  • twgh
    twgh Posts: 102
    I own a pair of Garmin Vectors and they are good. They are very easy to move between bikes (if you need to do that) and link up well with Garmin head units. They are also expensive, the transmitter pods look pants and the battery life is awful.

    I wouldn't spend the money again and would instead get a stages or Power2Max.
  • g00se
    g00se Posts: 2,221
    Keep an eye out for an announcement on Brim Brothers meters in the next week or so. They're supposed to be launched and the Interbike show.

    They've had a bit of press over the last couple of years - but no one knows the price yet. They're shoe mounted meters that work with speedplay pedals. So easily swappable if you want to use speedplays.
  • I had a Powertap. A good wheel builder did me proud but due to the flange size didn't think it was the going to be the stiffest wheel i'd ever ride. The bearings failed first just outside the warranty, so I replaced them myself. Then this year I rode the Paris Roubaix sportive with it. On the Eurotunnel train, I met a right 'banker' of a cyclist as we stood around. He said to me pulling in his breath, 'I wouldn't have ridden the P-R on a Powertap, my mate did that last year and it packed up some soon afterwards. 'Oh F Cough' I thought. Guess what? Two weeks later, it stopped transmitting power. I sent it back to Paligap who took 4 weeks to tell me it needed a full repair at £290. And the freehub should be replaced. I said why and was told I had been using inferior quality cassettes. Strange as I only have used Shimano Ultegra.

    So now I have a SRAM Elsa. It takes 3-5 mins to swap between bikes. I use it on my training bike M-F and swap for racing at weekends. I didn't go down the Stages Dura Ace route as I paid less for the Elsa crankset as for one crank arm, as my LBS could not offer me any discount on Stages. Or he could, 0.01p.
    Live to ski
    Ski to live
  • So what power2max would be necessary?

    Current bike is a compact 50/34. If next bike was 52/36 or something, would that one device be compatible with both bikes?
  • slowbike
    slowbike Posts: 8,498
    I have just got a power meter - still in the gathering data mode at the moment, but it is interesting. I went for the Stages as I use a compact crank on my road bike and a standard on the TT bike, so the Stages can be swapped around with ease.
    It also means I can pop it onto a turbo bike for both myself and my wife to use over the winter.

    Power2max would've been a consideration but lost out because of the difference in crank sizes.
    I will do a test on a Wattbike with L/R power measure - it's quite amusing doing one legged pedalling and seeing the effect on the power reading.
  • Grill
    Grill Posts: 5,610
    So what power2max would be necessary?

    Current bike is a compact 50/34. If next bike was 52/36 or something, would that one device be compatible with both bikes?

    Yes as you can change just change the rings on the spider. The only thing you need to take into account is the difference in bottom brackets. All my bikes use BSA or BB86 which is compatible with the 24mm spindle of the standard Rotor 3D. More info here: http://www.power2max.de/europe/en/support/frame-compatibility/
    English Cycles V3 | Cervelo P5 | Cervelo T4 | Trek Domane Koppenberg
  • Grill wrote:
    So what power2max would be necessary?

    Current bike is a compact 50/34. If next bike was 52/36 or something, would that one device be compatible with both bikes?

    Yes as you can change just change the rings on the spider. The only thing you need to take into account is the difference in bottom brackets. All my bikes use BSA or BB86 which is compatible with the 24mm spindle of the standard Rotor 3D. More info here: http://www.power2max.de/europe/en/support/frame-compatibility/

    Current bottom bracket is FSA BB30, according to bike spec. From reading the website, a Rotor 3D+ for example, would be compatible with the BB30, BB386 EVO, BBRight, and PF30. Okay, that clears up the compatibility issue a little!

    I clearly need to learn about bottom brackets :lol:
  • It depends upon so many things:

    Powertap didn't work for me because I have one bike with disc brakes and one with rim brakes

    Garmin Vector was looking interesting until I discovered that it wouldn't fit my FSA cranks (now solved I believe). Also, all my pedals are SPD-SL so I was looking at swapping pedals or cleats.

    Power2Max wasn't much good because I have compact on one bike and standard double on the other - swapping would have been a PITA.

    I went for Stages. It's probably as easy as swapping a wheel, has zero weight penalty (14g I think I measured) and simple.
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • robbo2011
    robbo2011 Posts: 1,017
    Grill wrote:
    All my bikes use BSA or BB86 which is compatible with the 24mm spindle of the standard Rotor 3D. More info here: http://www.power2max.de/europe/en/support/frame-compatibility/


    Are you sure, as for the BB86 inboard BB it says check. I am interested because I am thinking of one for my bike which is fitted with the SRAM GXP BB86 bottom bracket.
  • twgh
    twgh Posts: 102
    It depends upon so many things:

    Powertap didn't work for me because I have one bike with disc brakes and one with rim brakes

    Garmin Vector was looking interesting until I discovered that it wouldn't fit my FSA cranks (now solved I believe). Also, all my pedals are SPD-SL so I was looking at swapping pedals or cleats.

    Power2Max wasn't much good because I have compact on one bike and standard double on the other - swapping would have been a PITA.

    I went for Stages. It's probably as easy as swapping a wheel, has zero weight penalty (14g I think I measured) and simple.

    I would agree - if I could do it all again I would get a stages.
  • Grill
    Grill Posts: 5,610
    robbo2011 wrote:
    Grill wrote:
    All my bikes use BSA or BB86 which is compatible with the 24mm spindle of the standard Rotor 3D. More info here: http://www.power2max.de/europe/en/support/frame-compatibility/

    Are you sure, as for the BB86 inboard BB it says check. I am interested because I am thinking of one for my bike which is fitted with the SRAM GXP BB86 bottom bracket.

    100% sure. My Rotor 3D P2M has been on my Plasma 2 (BSA), Plasma 3 (PF86), Foil (PF86) and Wyndy (BSA).
    English Cycles V3 | Cervelo P5 | Cervelo T4 | Trek Domane Koppenberg