What tools/spares & essentials to take?

dirkpitt74
dirkpitt74 Posts: 518
edited September 2014 in MTB general
Guys,
Doing the Peak District MTB Challenge in a few weeks.
What should I take with regards to spares etc.?
So far my list is:
Tube(s)
Pump
Puncture kit
Multitool
Adjustable spanners
Cable ties
Quick links

Anything else I should take?
Anything I should leave behind?

Don't want to fill my pack with loads of weight that I don't need.

Thanks

Comments

  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Cake.
    Otherwise looks enough, except I can't think of any nuts on my bikes?
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • benpinnick
    benpinnick Posts: 4,148
    Chain tool. Assuming you snap your chain (and hence need quicklink) you will probably need to remove at least one link.

    Electrical tape

    Leave the spanners at home. Nothing uses a spanner (that you want to fix on the trail)

    Puncture kit - get some park patches or similar one hit jobs. Traditional kits are for Victorians.
    A Flock of Birds
    + some other bikes.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Agree with the above.

    Two tubes and self adhesive patches (not glue and all the other gubbins) for punctures
    A Decent multi tool with chain splitter.

    Also a short length of chain and 2 pairs of powerlinks so you can remove a section of damaged chain and insert the repair, I carry a tool to hold the chain while I connect it, its a 6" length of an old spoke, one end bent round and one end bent to just past 90 degrees, fit hook end to just behind one last link, pull ends together with some slack and slip more open end over, leaves 2 hands for refiting the last powerlink, if your hands are cold and wet it makes it much easier!

    I also carry a small first aid kit.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • I carry one of those three-way Allen keys with 4,5,6mm heads. Takes up little space and is a heck of a lot easier to use than a multi tool, in my opinion. I still carry a multi tool for the less common things.

    I carry a shock pump, too.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I wouldn't carry a shock pump, if it goes down then no amount of pumping gets it back, do make sure its set right before you ride though!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Sorry - spanner comes from riding with the kids - doh!!
    Hadn't seen the park patches before - ordered!
    Any recommemdations for a chain tool?
    Anyone use a CO2 inflator? If so what sort of pressure will one cartridge put into your tyre?

    Will defo be putting cake/flapjacks and haribo in my pack lol.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Chain tool, either a multitool with a GOOD one (some are cack - the one on my Lezyne is good) or go to decathlon and get their cheap chain tool as it's fairly light, not the best but it works!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • jimothy78
    jimothy78 Posts: 1,407
    Tape - either duct tape or electrical tape.

    On sunday I got a snakebite, then whilst struggling to inflate a new tube with a pump that had decided to operate as a net exporter of air, the end-cap from my QR skewer must have worked loose and disappeared into the undergrowth. In the end I had to hold the skewer (and hence wheel) in place using a copious amount of tape, which held the wheel on just securely enough to allow me to freewheel the downhill sections on my 8km trudge home.

    10669368_10154479878905316_4440366488615086978_o_zps589f2f87.jpg

    10644793_10154479878990316_6300275161378117501_o_zpse8dbdeed.jpg

    I've also heard of someone splinting together a broken frame by taping an allen key across the break.

    Also, take something you can use as a tyre boot incase you rip open a sidewall.

    Oh, and as for a multitool with a chain tool, I can't speak highly enough of the Topeak Hexus II - awesome piece of kit!
  • Selection of allen keys
    Spare derailleur hanger
    Tyre levers.
  • What about This Chain Tool?

    Good shout on the deralleur hanger - where can I get one for my Carrera?
  • first aid kit & ibuprofen :shock:
    Paracyclist
    @Bigmitch_racing
    2010 Specialized Tricross (commuter)
    2014 Whyte T129-S
    2016 Specialized Tarmac Ultegra Di2
    Big Mitch - YouTube
  • warpcow
    warpcow Posts: 1,448
    DirkPitt74 wrote:
    What about This Chain Tool?

    Good shout on the deralleur hanger - where can I get one for my Carrera?

    That tool is the classic. I've been carrying a Leatherman Freestyle (just pliers and a blade) for the last few years and it's come in handy more than once, although that was mainly the pliers for removing/tightening tubeless valves.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    DirkPitt74 wrote:
    What about This Chain Tool?

    Good shout on the deralleur hanger - where can I get one for my Carrera?

    Those are the best - I stopped using my big toolbox one when I first got mine.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    DirkPitt74 wrote:
    Good shout on the deralleur hanger - where can I get one for my Carrera?
    Halfords?

    Very reasonably priced as well at £7.99, most stores carry them as stock items.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • cooldad wrote:
    DirkPitt74 wrote:
    What about This Chain Tool?

    Good shout on the deralleur hanger - where can I get one for my Carrera?

    Those are the best - I stopped using my big toolbox one when I first got mine.

    I bought a big tool box one because mine of those no longer does the job - I have no idea why but about a year ago it just stopped being able to push the pins out of chains. Everything works fine but when a chain is introduced it just cannot be coaxed into working. It is very upsetting. Its probably 5 years old though
    Closet jockey wheel pimp whore.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    You can buy new pointy bits.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • spare brake pads, the peak grinding paste mud has a way of rinsing your pads in double quick time. i also carry a spare gear cable, although unlikley to happen (only had 2 go in 10+ years) a snapped cable can seriouly ruin your ride, as they weigh nothing i leave one coiled up and secured with a bit of tape in my pack. strurdy paper clip, unfold it and use it to hold chain together in right place when reapiring and act as a 3rd hand.
  • Great replies chaps!

    Will get some pads and a cable - good shout with the sturdy paper clip (off to raid the stationary cupboard lol).
  • Regarding pads, is it worth bedding the spare pads in before putting them in your bag. I've read in a few places, that brand new pads can be worn through pretty quickly in muddy conditions, but if the pads have previously been bedded in, they'll last longer. Is that true, or just nonsense?
  • chored wrote:
    Regarding pads, is it worth bedding the spare pads in before putting them in your bag. I've read in a few places, that brand new pads can be worn through pretty quickly in muddy conditions, but if the pads have previously been bedded in, they'll last longer. Is that true, or just nonsense?

    i always carry a pair of 'pre-bedded' pads as imho they last longer. depends where your riding, but i know in the peak district in winter i'l get through a set of pads in a ride unless they are bedded in properly.
  • Which type of pads are best?
    I notice Superstar do Organic, Kevlar & Sintered.
    As I ride mainly over Cannock which is fairly sandy what should I use?

    Thanks
  • DirkPitt74 wrote:
    Which type of pads are best?
    I notice Superstar do Organic, Kevlar & Sintered.
    As I ride mainly over Cannock which is fairly sandy what should I use?

    Thanks

    personal choice, but sintered are harder and deisgned to last longer, particulalry in crappy UK conditions. Organic pads tend to bed in quciker and can have better stopping power, but as they are softer will wear quickly, possibley one for summer usage. kevalr are meant to be the best of both worlds, but i've never tried them. if i had to guess, i'd say most people use sintered the majority of the time.

    pads and compounds do vary brand to brand though and i don't have much experience with superstar pads until very recently, they always get well rated on here though
  • Thanks for the reply - might give the sintered a go.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Kevlar all the way for me, seem to be lasting almost as long as sintered but have the feel of organic and only ever squeal if I get muddy crud in them and it's gone in a couple of meaningful applications of the brakes.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • How well do the Kevlar work from cold?
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Absolutely fine. It's an MTB, not an F1 car.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • cooldad wrote:
    Absolutely fine. It's an MTB, not an F1 car.

    Point taken lol.
    I suppose as they're quite a small surface area it isn't too much of an issue.

    Only experience with Kevlar pads was on my old TVR where they needed a couple of firm stops to get the feel.