Pedal position for changing gear smoothly
inie
Posts: 7
It always feels nice when a gear change is smooth and seamless, which got me wondering if there is a particular point on the pedal stroke at which I should aim to change gear? I understand that one (more?) tooth on the chainring is larger to facilitate the change but can't figure out where that comes in to play.
Excluding other factors, does anyone have any views on where is best in the stroke to change gear if I want to make things as smooth as possible?
Excluding other factors, does anyone have any views on where is best in the stroke to change gear if I want to make things as smooth as possible?
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You're over-thinking it, just a little...0
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I don't disagree, but I'm still curious.0
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Gear changes are smoother if the chain tension is relaxed just a little as the derailleur moves across - not surprisingly since if you're pushing on the pedal for all you're worth, the chain is stretched tight over the cogs making it harder to pull it off them.
That's why late downshifts when pushing hard on the hill are clanky and crunchy.
So I try to let off the push on the pedal, just slightly, at the instant the chain is trying to switch ring (front or back).
If there was a point in the crank stroke that made FD shifts smoother (and I doubt there is, since the chain has to wind itself on to the new chainring, and this takes nearly half a crank), it wouldn't in any case transfer to RD shifts, since a) there are several per crank revolution and b) the number of them depends on which gear you're in.Is the gorilla tired yet?0 -
Thank you, much appreciated. Can a mod please lock this thread.0
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I expect it's obvious, but I meant...ChrisAOnABike wrote:....it wouldn't in any case transfer to RD shifts, since a) there are several rear sprocket revs per crank revolution and b) the number of them depends on which gear you're in.Is the gorilla tired yet?0
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+1 with Chris - just ease off the pressure a tad and change.
Dunno about DI2 but if it did wait - then it'd be a slower system than normal ?0 -
I can change gear while standing on the pedals going uphill...just needs a bit of practice to ease off the pressure while changing gear. Its not so much the position of the cranks, but the pressure on the cranks thats important.WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
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The ramps on the sprockets aid chain pickup, so it will tend to derail when it intersects at certain positions of the sprocket.- - - - - - - - - -
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I used to ride with unramped teeth and downtube friction lever.
Best change was with the driveside pedal at 1:00, easing power.
With integrated levers and ramped teeth it is less critical but habit prevails.0 -
Got me thinking this. I suppose the chain tension is probably less when the cranks are vertical, before you start pushing down, so maybe that could be a good place to change. I'll give it ago next time I'm out.0
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No way could I concentrate on this and the road.0