Headset is loose

Trinitrotoluene
Trinitrotoluene Posts: 8
edited September 2014 in MTB workshop & tech
Hello!, im new to the forum.

So i have this bike i assembled from my LBS since July 26. And since August 10 i had notice that my headset keeps going loose and even though i tighten it (not overtighthened), it won't tighten up.
And while ago while i was cleaning my bike, i had notice something that the dust cup (idk what is it called) but it is the one nearest to the headtube is loosened up aswell
evhcYof.jpg?1

I am also wondering if it is because of my steerer tube too long?
Yesh3sl.jpg?1

I am out of ideas.
Please tell me if i need to provide more pictures of the inside of the headtube.
U6cTiXc.jpg?1
Thank you

Comments

  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Steerer is far far far too long, not only looks silly but you risk impaling yourself on it as well.

    Please describe how you tighten the headset, we get many people who say they are but aren't as they don't know how to do it.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • @TheRookie
    Yeah, i had been planning since last week to go to the LBS and make them cut my steerer tube but i had been busy in school and stuffs.

    So i first loosen (not completly remove) the two bolts on my stem, then i adjust the bolt on the top cap until it is not too tight and not too loose.
    I remember when a bike shop checked out my headset (for free)
    Then they tighten it, and it is still loose.
    They said i must buy a new headset, but i don't believe them because i think they just want money.
  • Was the headtube faced when the headset was installed?

    Is there a 2-3mm gap between the top of the steerer tube and the top of the last spacer? eg
    incorrect:
    p4pb7668928.jpg
    Correct:
    p4pb7668924.jpg

    The length of the steerer shouldn't cause the headset to loosen.
  • aradoman
    aradoman Posts: 66
    I think if your LBS thinks that's an acceptable steerer length for a bike they have put together, it's time to find a new LBS....
  • @NorthernMonkey

    What do you mean
    "Was the headtube faced when the headset was installed?"

    And yes, there is more than 3mm gap from the top of the last spacer to the tip of the steerer tube.
  • @aradoman

    Yeah, i am finding for a new bikeshop to trust my bike with.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    If the headset moves freely (forks rotate freely), it's fine.

    It could be that they didnt fit the crownrace properly and it's settling in, it could be that (given all the joints) there was some cruud trapped in a joint in the stack that has now broken down or come out.

    How many times have you re preloaded the headset?
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • @TheNorthern
    I didn't see if the headtube was faced by the one who installed it :?

    @TheRookie
    By the word "preloaded" do you mean adjust the screw on the top cap? If that is a yes, i had adjusted it many countless times because of my hopes for the rocking movement on my headset to disappear


    *Just a additional information, my headset used to make a knocking sound when i rock it back and fourth, but when i opened it and put some grease near the crown race which is nearest to the fork crown , the noise disappeared but the play on the headset remains.
  • @TheNorthern
    Btw, i double checked again the inside of my headset and i noticed my steerer tube and stem is incorrect, like the picture you posted. The tube that is after the stem is about 1 and a half inch.
  • You need to read up on it. If you don't know what pre-load is then you're clearly not understanding how it works.

    Looking at your last post - you need to add spacers so you get it to look like 'correct'
  • Ouija
    Ouija Posts: 1,386
    You may also find that the conical cap on the top of the headset (which you've circled in red) isn't the one that came with your headset and isn't/won't sit on top of the upper bearings properly. Had this happen myself once with an aftermarket conical cap (Ritchey). I could preload the bearing till the forks seized up but could still rock the whole thing back and forth because of that ill fitting cap.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    @TheNorthern
    Btw, i double checked again the inside of my headset and i noticed my steerer tube and stem is incorrect, like the picture you posted. The tube that is after the stem is about 1 and a half inch.
    The spacers are there to act in the same way as the stem.
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  • @Ouija
    What did you do then?
  • I really wouldn't worry about that yet - make sure you can preload it first.
  • Antm81
    Antm81 Posts: 1,406
    Try tightening the top cap further, not too tight and not too loose is neither here or there. Tighten it till there's no play in the headset, if there is resistance trying to steer you've gone too far.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    If you can never eliminate the play, then it's not assembled right, even a worn out headset has no play when set.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Nope, in a time zone half way between yours and the UK's this week!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.