Rolf Vector Pro Freehub removal
iron-clover
Posts: 737
Hi all,
I have a second hand pair of Rolf Vector Pro wheels of the kind that were made by Trek in the 00's, and unfortunately I've just broken the freehub engagement whilst pulling away at a TT (they have survived many so far, but I guess it was one too far) and I was hoping to open it up and see if it can be repaired as it doesn't feel too bad when freewheeling.
The only manual I can find online from Trek covers spoke replacement and complete rebuilding, so I'm not sure if the hubs are serviceable at all, but I was wondering if anyone has had any luck with them?
There are no allen key bolts, no flats for spanners, notches to knock at with a screwdriver and each end of the axle rotates seperately.
So far the only suggestion I've seen is to pull at the freehub, but it bends a butter knife used as leverage between the freehub body and hub shell, and if the cassette is fitted for extra purchase/ leverage it just bends and creaks that instead.
Here are a couple of pictures in case anyone recognises it.
Thanks!
I have a second hand pair of Rolf Vector Pro wheels of the kind that were made by Trek in the 00's, and unfortunately I've just broken the freehub engagement whilst pulling away at a TT (they have survived many so far, but I guess it was one too far) and I was hoping to open it up and see if it can be repaired as it doesn't feel too bad when freewheeling.
The only manual I can find online from Trek covers spoke replacement and complete rebuilding, so I'm not sure if the hubs are serviceable at all, but I was wondering if anyone has had any luck with them?
There are no allen key bolts, no flats for spanners, notches to knock at with a screwdriver and each end of the axle rotates seperately.
So far the only suggestion I've seen is to pull at the freehub, but it bends a butter knife used as leverage between the freehub body and hub shell, and if the cassette is fitted for extra purchase/ leverage it just bends and creaks that instead.
Here are a couple of pictures in case anyone recognises it.
Thanks!
0
Comments
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The cap is probably seized, you ned to clamp the cap with something soft likewood or plastic ad then pull the wheel... it should come offleft the forum March 20230
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Cheers Ugo- a stronger pair of hands and a towel on the hub and it came off fine.
The original grease had dried up and it needed a bit of cleaning, but unfortunately cleaning and re-greasing didn't solve the problem- I guess the parts have worn a little too much.
I'll add the pictures of the internals for future reference if anyone else searches up help for these wheels.
The hub after the freehub has been pulled off along with the end cap. No unscrewing or leverage required, just a towel and a strong pair of hands.
The internals of the hub, left to right: Spring to push 'clutch' onto freehub body, 'clutch', freehub body, end cap. Not pictured is the metal sleeve put over the axle of the wheel to hold the clutch in position on the axle.
Clutch and freehub body interface after cleaning.
Hopefully the pictures will help anyone else trying to service these wheels, as I know there isn't much material available online.0 -
WHo would have thought there was a DT Swiss Hugi ratchet system in there... :shock:left the forum March 20230
