Tubeless-effect on speed for road riding?

Semantik
Semantik Posts: 537
edited August 2014 in MTB general
Just got myself some Hope Hoops with Arch Ex rims and very nice they are too.
14802168819_3611ddd342_h.jpg

Heard about the advantages of tubeless for off-road riding- able to run at lower pressures, fewer punctures etc.etc.

BUT, being conscious that a max pressure of 40psi is recommended, and wanting occasionally to stray onto tarmac, I am left wondering whether a tubed setup would actually be faster on the road given that you could safely raise pressure to 60psi.
Will the tubeless setup still be faster or does the tubed tyre roll faster?
Not seen any info about this.

Comments

  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Probably because road speed on a mountain bike is kind of irrelevant.
    I don't do smileys.

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  • Semantik
    Semantik Posts: 537
    cooldad wrote:
    Probably because road speed on a mountain bike is kind of irrelevant.

    Yeah, I've heard a few fat bloke MTB riders say that.
  • warpcow
    warpcow Posts: 1,448
    Tubeless should be superior, but at different pressures, no idea. I doubt it'll actaully make enough of a real world difference for you to worry about, but worrying about this stuff is irrational anyway.
  • paul.skibum
    paul.skibum Posts: 4,068
    Well presumably you have answered your own question?

    If you need to run higher pressures as you might on prolonged road miles then yes tubeless is not ideal. But are you planning on doing a lot of road miles purely on road? with occassional off road use or road to off road frequently?

    If I was going to be using a bike for off road and commuter duties on road I would have 2 sets of wheels, two tyre set ups and all the other stuff. Reasoning - off road tyres are eye wateringly pricey and I like soft compounds which I dont want to waste on tarmac so I'd keep my good tyres, good rims, tubeless set up and maybe my XT/one up cassette for off road use and have a cheaper wheelset with tubed road specific tyres and a cheaper cassette for the commuter stuff.

    If I was rolling from road to off road frequently then its irrelevant as I would want the setup optimised for off road.
    Closet jockey wheel pimp whore.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Semantik wrote:
    cooldad wrote:
    Probably because road speed on a mountain bike is kind of irrelevant.

    Yeah, I've heard a few fat bloke MTB riders say that.

    Well done. Probably because us fat bloke MTB riders ride off road.

    The clue is in MTB.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

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  • lostboysaint
    lostboysaint Posts: 4,250
    Semantik wrote:
    cooldad wrote:
    Probably because road speed on a mountain bike is kind of irrelevant.

    Yeah, I've heard a few fat bloke MTB riders say that.

    You've got good hearing then, or they manage to get the words out quickly as they disappear past you on the downhills ;)
    Trail fun - Transition Bandit
    Road - Wilier Izoard Centaur/Cube Agree C62 Disc
    Allround - Cotic Solaris
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Gravity is my friend.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • Semantik
    Semantik Posts: 537
    Well presumably you have answered your own question?

    If you need to run higher pressures as you might on prolonged road miles then yes tubeless is not ideal. But are you planning on doing a lot of road miles purely on road? with occassional off road use or road to off road frequently?

    If I was going to be using a bike for off road and commuter duties on road I would have 2 sets of wheels, two tyre set ups and all the other stuff. Reasoning - off road tyres are eye wateringly pricey and I like soft compounds which I dont want to waste on tarmac so I'd keep my good tyres, good rims, tubeless set up and maybe my XT/one up cassette for off road use and have a cheaper wheelset with tubed road specific tyres and a cheaper cassette for the commuter stuff.

    If I was rolling from road to off road frequently then its irrelevant as I would want the setup optimised for off road.

    Yeah,it's commuting I was thinking of- when ideally I'd like to run higher pressures.
    New tyres and rotors for the spare non-tubeless wheels ordered a few days ago with this in mind.
  • lostboysaint
    lostboysaint Posts: 4,250
    So what you're saying is that you're fat enough that 40 psi isn't hard enough in an MTB tyre on the road!
    Trail fun - Transition Bandit
    Road - Wilier Izoard Centaur/Cube Agree C62 Disc
    Allround - Cotic Solaris
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    For the price of spare wheels with rotors, cassettes etc I'd just buy a cheap road bike!
  • Semantik
    Semantik Posts: 537
    So what you're saying is that you're fat enough that 40 psi isn't hard enough in an MTB tyre on the road!

    Stop bellyaching!
    I acknowledge your advantage on the downhills.
    Just get outta my way on the climbs
  • Semantik
    Semantik Posts: 537
    njee20 wrote:
    For the price of spare wheels with rotors, cassettes etc I'd just buy a cheap road bike!

    Fair point ,but already had the spare wheels.

    Tyres were £9.99 each (when I ordered) http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/TYVTRNDP/v ... lding-tyre
    Rotors were £10 each from Halfords with their 20% off last week +10% BC discount.

    Got a few spare cassettes already.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Those will probably be a pain trying to run tubeless, I'd stick a tube in.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Semantik
    Semantik Posts: 537
    The Rookie wrote:
    Those will probably be a pain trying to run tubeless, I'd stick a tube in.

    Those are going to be for the commuting wheels, with tubes in 'em.
    Got some Nobby Nics for the new tubeless wheels.
  • rockmonkeysc
    rockmonkeysc Posts: 14,774
    Mountain bikes are crap on road no matter what tyre/tube set up you use. Nobby Nics are just crap for anything.
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    I took my MTB on a group road ride a few weeks ago. It did fine, position wasn't great, but I just bent my elbows a bit more. Didn't faff with pumping up tyres or anything, just rode 2.25" Rons at 30psi, happily did 20mph average, and the extra grip came in handy when I rode over one of the guy's bikes, after he threw himself over the bars and used his face to stop.

    So sometimes they're not crap. Not entirely sure I'd have held it together on a road bike!
  • rockmonkeysc
    rockmonkeysc Posts: 14,774
    I certainly wouldn't want to try my 17 mile commute on my mountain bike, I think it might take a bit too long.
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    Yes I've got a slight advantage in that respect - whilst it feels horrible I'm generally only 1-2mph slower at most on the MTB, and actually several road climbs I've done quickest on my mountain bike.
  • Semantik
    Semantik Posts: 537
    Mountain bikes are crap on road no matter what tyre/tube set up you use. Nobby Nics are just crap for anything.

    Not bought them yet. Any other recommendations?
  • rockmonkeysc
    rockmonkeysc Posts: 14,774
    Schwalbe City Jets.
  • A road bike... for, yunno, riding on the road.
  • paul.skibum
    paul.skibum Posts: 4,068
    Schwalbe City Jets.

    I have a bit of a rep for not reading the question but the nobby nics are for his tubeless off road set up - he's got some other tyres for on road following my suggested use of different wheels for commuting. Keep up. Come on now.
    Closet jockey wheel pimp whore.
  • Semantik
    Semantik Posts: 537
    Schwalbe City Jets.

    I have a bit of a rep for not reading the question but the nobby nics are for his tubeless off road set up - he's got some other tyres for on road following my suggested use of different wheels for commuting. Keep up. Come on now.

    Didn't want to point this out. Thought I was in enough trouble already.