factory wheels and rim wear
goosey
Posts: 103
I noticed that the rims on my 3 year old Shimano rs80 wheels are beginning to show sings of going concave. For the first time, it's occurred to me that I might have to throw them away, despite their "last forever if you maintain them" hubs.
Is this what people do nowadays - spent hundreds on a wheelset and then have to bin them because of normal wear on the rims?
Back to conventional wheels for me, I think...
Is this what people do nowadays - spent hundreds on a wheelset and then have to bin them because of normal wear on the rims?
Back to conventional wheels for me, I think...
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Comments
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Yup. Use them as a turbo wheels.English Cycles V3 | Cervelo P5 | Cervelo T4 | Trek Domane Koppenberg0
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If they are past the wear indicator on the rim then yes stop using them as a wheel failure is never a nice thing. Could you not just get a new rim fitted, over binning the wheel totally?Pain hurts much less if its topped off with beating your mates to top of a climb.0
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Try finding an aftermarket 16 spoke front rim that is not carbon, if you can let me know. Shimano do sell spare rims by the way but you won't like the price.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0
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I reckon my Khamsins have been concave for a good 12000 miles now. Wear indicator still not gone yet. Any wheel 'just showing signs of going concave' is a long way from worn out. What matters is the internal width.Faster than a tent.......0
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Well this is my point. With a conventional, handbuilt wheel you could. I could do it myself. But who will fit new rims to factory wheels? Rims are wear-and-tear items like chains, brake pads etc. They have a finite life but you shouldn't have to throw away a wheelset because the rims are worn.Could you not just get a new rim fitted, over binning the wheel totally?0 -
Think you might find someone, however by far from an expert myself & as thecycleclinic suggest they do seem rare to the point of making their price more expensive than a new pair of wheels I guessPain hurts much less if its topped off with beating your mates to top of a climb.0
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Use two spokes and a vernier gauge to determine wall thickness. If it is more than 1.0mm then all is well for now, if it less than 1.0mm retire them. If it is 0.7mm or less count your lucky stars that you have got away with it then retire them.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0
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There are a few out there, like the Kinlin XR-300, and some manufacturers will do any number of holes you like if you ask them.thecycleclinic wrote:Try finding an aftermarket 16 spoke front rim that is not carbon, if you can let me know...0 -
Once you find an unofficial rim of the correct spoke count, you have to find someone to build it for you. Not knowing what the result will be, I doubt many would put their reputation on the line for this... you can have a go yourself though...
left the forum March 20230 -
I suppose one workaround is to run softer compound brake pads. I'd rather sacrifice my pads than my rims, and a few quid every few hundred miles on new pads is a better economy than a new wheelset every 3 years.
Anyone know what pads to choose? Alu braking surfaces on the RS80 by the way.0 -
See here for what happened to the rim on my fulcrum zero.
viewtopic.php?f=40042&t=12927602
Thank god I was going uphill at 5mph and not downhill at 40mph0 -
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