Is it unwise to build a bike?

RagingAlcoholic
RagingAlcoholic Posts: 10
edited August 2014 in Road buying advice
Firstly I have never built a bike before. I have had three road bikes - one Alu and the other two carbon, but with my carbon bikes sold, I am now tempted to go down that road of building a bike. I understand this is an expensive project, and maybe more so than actually buying a ready made bike with a similar frameset and components (would anyone like to confirm this?).

My reasons for this are:

1) It's fun, and it'll give me something to focus on in my spare time.
2) I cannot afford to spend huge sums of cash at one given time (e.g £2000-3000)
3) I want the bike to be unique to me (i.e personal choice of components, wheels etc)

Has anyone here built a bike? If so, was it worth it?

This is what I have in mind.

Frameset - Cannondale supersix evo, Canyon CF, Scott Foil 10/15 or Cervelo R3/5
Groupset - Campagnolo Chorus II, SRAM Force/Red (nothing against shimano)
Wheels - Have not a clue.

Understandably this may take many months to complete. I intend to get it started come the Autumn/Winter so that it is ready by mid-spring.

Any suggestions in relation to this?

PS.. Excuse my username
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Comments

  • g00se
    g00se Posts: 2,221
    Go for it - it's great fun - I've done a few now.

    It CAN be a little cheaper if you've got time to hunt for bargains or get the odd bit second hand. What could be expensive is the tooling required for some jobs - if you haven't got them already.
  • I've done the same thing 3 times now.
    The first one was much more expensive than it would have been to buy a similar bike. I'd learned a lot by the second build. I bought a lot of kit second-hand or in the sales and bought the frame in the sales only once I had all the components. So the second bike was a lot cheaper. I sold the first bike, (all except the wheels) and used the money to fund my 3rd build which effectively was to be (and is) my dream bike. I've never done the maths for the 3rd build but doubt I saved much money.

    If it's just a matter of cost, or one off payments, plenty of companies offer Interest free credit and this may be cheaper than undertaking a bike build.

    The thing for me is at the end of the build you have chosen all the components, making sacrifices, usually on the basis of cost, that you were willing to make. Every compromise was your decision and you'll know why that decision was made, stiffness, lightness, comfort etc. But the decision wasn't made by some accountant trying to meet a budget. When you sit on the bike you know that your bike is a one off, no-one else will have the unique blend of components that you chose. And this Bespoke feel gives me a buzz.
    There's warp speed - then there's Storck Speed
  • I did it recently.... It wasn't hard but there was a fairly steep learning curve. It was the finishing bits like correct chain length I struggled a bit with. Youtube was a bit of a saviour.

    And I became a bar wrapping god in one go - I'm so proud of my bars given it was my first attempt. :lol:
  • drlodge
    drlodge Posts: 4,826
    And I became a bar wrapping god in one go - I'm so proud of my bars given it was my first attempt. :lol:

    I trust you wrapped them in good old professional figure-8 style :wink:
    WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
    Find me on Strava
  • drlodge
    drlodge Posts: 4,826
    Joking aside, building your own bike is fun, interesting and a great learning experience. Never again will you wonder how to adjust your gears and finding the cause of creaks and other problems will be a lot easier.

    Go for it - its not rocket science and as long as you apply some common sense and try to understand how things go together, you'll be fine.
    WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
    Find me on Strava
  • drlodge wrote:
    I trust you wrapped them in good old professional figure-8 style :wink:


    You mean there's another way...? :shock:
  • drlodge
    drlodge Posts: 4,826
    drlodge wrote:
    I trust you wrapped them in good old professional figure-8 style :wink:


    You mean there's another way...? :shock:

    Haha! There are to ways of wrapping around the shifters...I prefer the figure 8 way just cos I think its different, a little bit more tricky but looks good. Look it up on youtube, makes sod all difference really and would take a blind man to notice.
    WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
    Find me on Strava
  • arlowood
    arlowood Posts: 2,561
    I would reiterate the comments above based on my own experience.

    I've just completed my third build based around a Genesis Equilibrium steel frame and, for me, it's the favourite of all three. My first build was using a Forme Longcliffe Alu frame and the 2nd started off with an old (2002 vintage) Trek 5200 carbon frame.

    All three have been great fun and lessons were learnt along the way and techniques developed so that the Genesis build went very smoothly.

    As has been said already - look out for sale bargains or keep a close watch on the "Classified" section on here. I've picked up a lot of excellent quality components at good prices that way. In fact the Genesis frame used in the build above came from a forum member and was in mint condition. The final product :-

    14847245903_32226504c7_b.jpg

    My advice for you as a beginner would be:-

    1.Stick to a frame with external cabling to start with - I've never tackled internal cabling but I can imagine that with some frames it would be a real pig to do.
    2. As a starter I would suggest picking a frame with a standard BSA threaded bottom bracket. They are far easier to assemble, service and repair than the various press fit varieties (BB30 etc)
    3. Get your local LBS to install the headset if one is not already fitted. I made up my own headset press with some threaded bar, plate washers and nuts which worked fine for me. However I was working on relatively cheap frames. If you end up buying an expensive carbon frame then for starters trust it to the LBS.
    3. Get yourself a decent workstand, a good set of allen keys, a wooden or resin mallet, a chain whip,a cassette removal tool and most important, a good quality set of cable cutters. Others might also suggest a torque wrench but personally I've never felt the need for one. Just be sensible about assembling things if you opt for a carbon frame as your first build.
  • arlowood wrote:
    a good quality set of cable cutters.


    Only when you try and use a crimping tool/cable stripper or a set of plyers, do you realise how important this bit of advice is... :oops:
  • Moonbiker
    Moonbiker Posts: 1,706
    Don't you slide off the front of that saddle? :roll:
  • arlowood
    arlowood Posts: 2,561
    A-propos of my comment above - there is a seller on the classifieds with 3 frames up for grabs:- A Ribble R872, a Focus Izalco and a Scott Foil 15 - all at good prices if the sizes are suitable:-

    viewtopic.php?f=40091&t=12979317&p=19008372&hilit=frame#p19008372
  • Bozman
    Bozman Posts: 2,518
    Why wouldn't you build up your own bike, I bought my first bike and since then I've always built them up because you get the spec you want.
  • lakesluddite
    lakesluddite Posts: 1,337
    I'm in the same boat as you Raging...I want a custom steel frame, am probably going to go to Rourkes, but will only be buying the frame and forks at first, then adding to it when I can afford the components I want.

    I too am pretty anxious about building it myself, as I really only have a rudimentary knowledge of fairly basic maintenance - but I figure if you're only doing only thing at a time, then you can take your time, use the right resources (Park Tools videos etc) and use it as a learning experience. The sense of achievement at the end of the build must be fairly satisfying as well...and if it goes belly up, there's always the LBS!
  • drlodge
    drlodge Posts: 4,826
    There's hardly anything you can get wrong that can't be undone and made good.
    WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
    Find me on Strava
  • g00se
    g00se Posts: 2,221
    There are loads of tips and instructions on building a bike - but here's one I've never seen and has got me a few times.

    When building up the fork and bars (when the cables aren't attached and the bars are unwrapped), make sure not to tilt the frame back, as the bars will swing round and take a chunk out of the paintwork on the top tube.
  • arlowood
    arlowood Posts: 2,561
    Moonbiker wrote:
    Don't you slide off the front of that saddle? :roll:

    Yeah - it does look a bit of a dogs breakfast. :shock: Took the pic before I'd finally got all the contact points sorted out - saddle now respectably horizontal
  • cougie
    cougie Posts: 22,512
    We always used to build our own bikes back in the day - when you'd go for a nice steel frame and then add the bits you wanted. I think its less vital nowadays with matching groupsets.

    If you cant afford a big hit in one go - plenty of places give you a bike build option and 0% interest - that would get your bike up and running shortly - but then you miss out on the skills of assembling it.
  • matt-h
    matt-h Posts: 847
    g00se wrote:
    There are loads of tips and instructions on building a bike - but here's one I've never seen and has got me a few times.

    When building up the fork and bars (when the cables aren't attached and the bars are unwrapped), make sure not to tilt the frame back, as the bars will swing round and take a chunk out of the paintwork on the top tube.

    Keep a length of pipe insulation on the top tube until the bike is complete. Never worry about scratches again

    Matt
  • on-yer-bike
    on-yer-bike Posts: 2,974
    Don't cut the fork steerer too short.
    Pegoretti
    Colnago
    Cervelo
    Campagnolo
  • Some really good advice on this thread - thanks!

    Would I just be better off purchasing everything necessary for the bike and then taking it down to the LBS for a bike build? Or is that cheating?
  • drlodge
    drlodge Posts: 4,826
    Some really good advice on this thread - thanks!

    Would I just be better off purchasing everything necessary for the bike and then taking it down to the LBS for a bike build? Or is that cheating?

    That's cheating!!! Do it yourself otherwise there's not much benfit nor enjoyment :-)
    WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
    Find me on Strava
  • drlodge wrote:
    Some really good advice on this thread - thanks!

    Would I just be better off purchasing everything necessary for the bike and then taking it down to the LBS for a bike build? Or is that cheating?

    That's cheating!!! Do it yourself otherwise there's not much benfit nor enjoyment :-)

    So just how difficult or easy is it? What is the most challenging part of building a bike?
  • Buying the rights bits that work with each other.

    The build is easy after that.
  • bobmcstuff
    bobmcstuff Posts: 11,435
    I've built a number of MTBs and it's absolutely fine. Mostly through being too skint to afford all new everything and having a large collection of parts in the house at the time.

    Not built a road bike but the technology isn't all that different.

    Makes it much easier to identify and rectify problems once you've built your own bike, plus it feels much more personal.
  • defride
    defride Posts: 277
    drlodge wrote:
    Some really good advice on this thread - thanks!

    Would I just be better off purchasing everything necessary for the bike and then taking it down to the LBS for a bike build? Or is that cheating?

    That's cheating!!! Do it yourself otherwise there's not much benfit nor enjoyment :-)

    So just how difficult or easy is it? What is the most challenging part of building a bike?

    Short of building your own wheels which is an art that takes practice to do well there is little that's difficult when putting a bike together. The main challenges are working out the parts that are compatible with your choices and ensuring you have the correct tools. Some jobs do need specialist tools that are expensive and might only be used a few times a decade. A bit of initiative and there is usually a way around, headset presses can be fashioned from bolts and washers for example.

    The main job that requires a specialist tool is facing and pressing in a headset and bottom bracket. These days this isn't always required. If it is required it's not uncommon to get a shop to do this part.

    There is loads of great advice across the web detailing how to complete all work required to put a bike together. Youtube is great but so too are the likes of Park Tools advice site. If you can follow intstructions nothing is truly difficult (until you need to put right a mistake!)

    Give it a crack, once you've done it you'll never have to pay for servicing again.
  • arlowood
    arlowood Posts: 2,561
    So just how difficult or easy is it? What is the most challenging part of building a bike?


    As stated before - most of it is pretty straightforward. The trickiest part on my first 2 builds was setting up the front derailleur but by the 3rd build I was able to get it right more or less first time. Feeding the gear cables into the shifters can also be a bit fiddly (talking Shimano 5700 here) but again if your patient and follow the instructions/videos it will come good.

    Wrapping bar tape is also a skill that takes a little practice to get things looking neat and tidy. Don't worry however if your first attempt doesn't go all that well - it's easy enough to unwrap and re-wrap with most tapes.
  • drlodge
    drlodge Posts: 4,826
    defride wrote:
    The main job that requires a specialist tool is facing and pressing in a headset and bottom bracket. These days this isn't always required. If it is required it's not uncommon to get a shop to do this part.

    This ---^ Other than facing the headtube and BB, and pressing in a headset, everything else slots or screws together. I had my LBS to face my Condor frame BB (its steel), its the only job other than building wheels I have others do.
    WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
    Find me on Strava
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    I'd done most things mechanical while fixing / maintaining my bikes and those of our two boys. Then last year I found myself buying a carbon frameset when Westbrooks were selling off the outgoing Scott CR1's. (I can't resist a bargain and I'd been considering a CR1 for a while; seemed like fate)
    Handily the press-fit Shimano BB came already fitted, and the headset cups I pressed in using a DIY press from Ebay for a fiver (=threaded rod / washers / nuts / spacers)

    Quickest way to get it on the road was to strip all the kit off the alu bike and transfer it to the Scott. This only needed a new seatpost since it was a different diameter, and some filing of the inner chainring of the 5603 triple crankset to make it fit round the (fatter) BB shell. Those minor hiccups aside I found it surprisingly quick and easy to build a bike!

    Once I'd scratched that itch and ridden round marvelling at the lightness and the ride quality, the nights were drawing in and the weather deteriorating. The alu bike being a Racelight Tk, a proper winter trainer, I set about buying a mixture of used and new parts to build 2 complete bikes as cheaply as possible. R501 wheelset for £70, some Deda SL bars and stem from Ribble, a second hand Tiagra 9 speed groupset from the classifieds on here, old Charge Spoon saddle, bit of bar tape and the cheapest wired tyres I could find. Lots more swapping of components and presto! N+1.

    So last year I effectively built 3 bikes!

    The only thing I've regretted was going cheap on the tyres, some plain Rubinos. On the light summer bike they feel a bit dead, and on the winter bike they don't offer enough puncture protection, so the GP4 seasons are on the winter bike and I'll be buying something lighter and more supple for the CR1
  • neeb
    neeb Posts: 4,473
    I've hardly ever bought a complete bike. I'm just too fussy to ever be satisfied with whatever combination of components happens to have been thrown together with the options available off-the-shelf. Although it's usually cheaper to buy a complete bike than to individually buy all of the components, I would always want to replace quite a few things, and once you factor that in (and even allowing for trying to sell the unwanted stuff on ebay) there's not much in it or it may even be cheaper to build it yourself. And once you've built a few bikes it's actually less hassle doing that than having to be faffed with storing, selling or giving away those unwanted crappy wheels, saddles, shimano groupsets etc.. If you have all of the the tools already you can easily do it in a single Saturday even as an amateur (of course pro mechanics can build bikes much faster). By far the most time-consuming aspects are the cabling and getting the contact points perfectly positioned.
  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    Firstly, complete bikes work out cheaper due to the economies of scale for manufacturers - they're priced to attract buyers and cost a lot less than they would if you built them from individual parts. Bike shops also make a bigger mark-up on parts. However, if your needs can't be met by a off-the-shelf bike or you want something more esoteric/individual then it can be a source of great satisfaction. Ebay for example makes it a lot easier to source parts from the Far East (provided you know what to buy / reputable sellers).

    Having only ever bought two complete bikes, both MTBs, the 20 or so I've owned over the years I've built myself. I now design and build my own bikes - getting a custom-built titanium frames direct from the factory in China, building my own wheels etc. My current project is a fat-bike - my cost estimate is £2,000 and will be built with the likes of XT and Hope parts. To buy a 'branded' version of a titanium frame only from the same factory would cost me £2,000 and the full bike £3,500+ The frame however will be unique, with custom graphics / geometry - this'll be the fifth titanium frame I've bought from China. Plenty of info out there if you know where to look.
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..