Cold Weather Commuting - what is needed?

tangled_metal
tangled_metal Posts: 4,021
edited August 2014 in Commuting chat
New to commuting, since I started when the weather was nice I'm actually curious about coping with winter. Motivation, safety, coping with adverse conditions like ice or cold and kitting out for it.

I've always been a fair weather rider, often stopping in autumn, with rare forays out in cold but dry and sunny days. This year I'm determined to keep on riding to work. I've an early start too, leaving the house at 7am.

What cheap things should I buy to make things better? I've got acceptable cold weather clothes from other outdoor activities but think a cycling jacket with hi viz is needed. Also stronger front light and considering getting some reflective tape for the bike too. Anyone know a good source of 3m scotchlite that is black and discrete until light hits it? I take it this is a good idea?

Any tips, advice or gear purchases I need to know about

Bike is Specialized Crosstrail sport disc and 1 year old.
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Comments

  • rjsterry
    rjsterry Posts: 27,671
    It's your extremeties that get cold: think about getting some decent gloves, and some neoprene overshoes. Also something for your head/ears for the really chilly days. Otherwise I think you've already covered it in the OP.
    1985 Mercian King of Mercia - work in progress (Hah! Who am I kidding?)
    Pinnacle Monzonite

    Part of the anti-growth coalition
  • DrLex
    DrLex Posts: 2,142
    Rural commute? On very icy days, studded tyres are the best way to stay upright, plus with their weight, it adds to the exercise...
    Location: ciderspace
  • pblakeney
    pblakeney Posts: 25,776
    It sounds like you have it covered already, with the addition of overshoes, longs and decent gloves as said.
    The other thing you will need is a positive attitude. It is never as bad as it looks and the hardest part is making the decision to go out in the first place, but it is worth it.
    Contrary to others, I avoid snow and ice though as I have had too many close calls.
    The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
    I am not sure. You have no chance.
    Veronese68 wrote:
    PB is the most sensible person on here.
  • danlikesbikes
    danlikesbikes Posts: 3,898
    Only thing I would add which worked for me is a cap for under the helmet & a buff for the neck area
    Pain hurts much less if its topped off with beating your mates to top of a climb.
  • rubertoe
    rubertoe Posts: 3,994
    7 isnt that early....

    keep your core warm and the extremities will be easier to keep warm as the blood isnt required for your core.
    "If you always do what you've always done, you'll always get what you've always got."

    PX Kaffenback 2 = Work Horse
    B-Twin Alur 700 = Sundays and Hills
  • Protect your knees, no blood runs through you cartillage, some nice fleacie knee warmers, also no need for leg warmers and knee warmers keep you looking more Pro.

    A cotton cap, on drizzily days it work wonders at keeping crap out your eyes and your head warm, really cold days you can still combine it with a head band.

    Toe covers, overshoes are never perfect as they have a hole in the top. Try toe covers as you never need take them off and they keep the cold and damp out (though obviously arn't much use in proper rain), I keep mine on from about now till April. (you'll wear through a pair a year).
    If I know you, and I like you, you can borrow my bike box for £30 a week. PM for details.
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,052
    Deep pockets as you begin to realise how much new stuff you "need".
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • meanredspider
    meanredspider Posts: 12,337
    Keep a (mental if not physical) note of what to wear at the different temperatures. For me it's a bit like this (for example)
    <10C Long sleeves, long finger gloves
    <5C Jacket - starting to think about leg warmers, esp if wet.
    <0C thicker gloves, ear covering, tights/leg warmers, overshoes
    <-5C Thick jacket, winter tights over shorts, lobster gloves, neck buff
    <-10C additional shell jacket layer, extra glove layer

    You get the picture. Then it's easier to get prepared - just check the temp when you get up and dress accordingly.

    Given where I live, if there's frost on the cars, I also swapped to the MTB with studded ice tyres as I was likely to encounter black ice (or just full blown sheets of the stuff) on my route somewhere and it was never worth the risk taking the road bike (as I discovered - it's horrible when your rear wheel steps out on a pedal stroke - the rest of the ride you crawl)

    Well done for doing it - it's actually a great feeling arriving at work by bike on a crappy dark morning knowing that you beat the conditions.
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • Stag on
    Stag on Posts: 99
    I am known as a tight @rse, further I have been known to improvise my set up, cue ridicule but unlike most on this forum I do not have the luxury of the London heat island and a 12 mile, very rural commute so no other riders to impress.

    Despite many years of asking for decent winter gloves for Christmas I keep getting bought thin autumn style gloves so I bought some NAFFI style woollen ‘thermal’ gloves from RAF Brize Norton departure lounge last time I was there for about four quid. Wear them under the Autumn gloves and the hands are OK.

    I have the Planet X overshoes, pretty good and about £12 or so. Thick army style socks on under the shoes and if it’s really Baltic, a plastic bag inside the overshoes. Awaits flaming for this but I find the addition of this layer helps a bit more.

    I go with tights and long sleeve bibs depending on temperature, may be just me but in cold conditions bare skin gets chilblains or a red rash if exposed for too long. On the top I build up the long sleeve base layers depending on temperature with a thick merino base layer on the top. No jacket as I ‘run hot’ and I find my body stays pretty warm, it’s the extremities that are the problem.

    Buff on the top plus a wooly ear cover if required.

    Having had an off in February last year over black ice from a burst water main at about -5 I will draw the line at zero degrees and find another way in. Skidding on my arse for 10 metres while a white van fish tailed towards me the other way tends to focus the mind. Black ice can be a problem on the back lanes and it’s typically a couple of degrees below the temperature on xcweather.co.uk

    I really enjoyed riding through most of last winter but it was quite a mild one. It’s a good feeling to be out when most fair weather riders are finding another way in.
  • elbowloh
    elbowloh Posts: 7,078
    Surprised that no-one has mentioned the dose of man the fark up that is needed. Can't get it on wiggle though. :wink:
    Felt F1 2014
    Felt Z6 2012
    Red Arthur Caygill steel frame
    Tall....
    www.seewildlife.co.uk
  • pblakeney
    pblakeney Posts: 25,776
    elbowloh wrote:
    Surprised that no-one has mentioned the dose of man the fark up that is needed. Can't get it on wiggle though. :wink:
    The other thing you will need is a positive attitude. It is never as bad as it looks and the hardest part is making the decision to go out in the first place, but it is worth it.
    In other words, MTFU.
    The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
    I am not sure. You have no chance.
    Veronese68 wrote:
    PB is the most sensible person on here.
  • elbowloh
    elbowloh Posts: 7,078
    PBlakeney wrote:
    elbowloh wrote:
    Surprised that no-one has mentioned the dose of man the fark up that is needed. Can't get it on wiggle though. :wink:
    The other thing you will need is a positive attitude. It is never as bad as it looks and the hardest part is making the decision to go out in the first place, but it is worth it.
    In other words, MTFU.
    Heck, you were pussy-footing around.
    Felt F1 2014
    Felt Z6 2012
    Red Arthur Caygill steel frame
    Tall....
    www.seewildlife.co.uk
  • First off, it depends if you have a rural commute or city commute. The temps and conditions are massively different.

    Buy lights that allow you to see with, just lights just to be seen.

    While not cheap winter boots are a fantastic purchase. Go a size larger so you can wear thicker (ski) socks if needed

    More applicable to the rural commute but I do not ride if there is a risk of ice. The risk/reward ratio is not worth it IMO. If you insistent on riding, have studded tyres

    As mentioned earlier a buff is great for the neck, ears and head

    Get to know what temps equate to what clothing is needed. E.g. Under 10C wear legs warmers. Under 8C wear buff to cover ears & neck
  • menthel
    menthel Posts: 2,484
    A beard, a buff and some woolie boolies. The beard has many uses, including raising your SCR number and looking cool when it gets frost in it.
    RIP commute...
    Sometimes seen bimbling around on a purple Fratello Disc or black and red Aprire Vincenza.
  • pblakeney
    pblakeney Posts: 25,776
    elbowloh wrote:
    Heck, you were pussy-footing around.
    It is quite possible to make a point without referring to foul language.
    The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
    I am not sure. You have no chance.
    Veronese68 wrote:
    PB is the most sensible person on here.
  • MonkeyMonster
    MonkeyMonster Posts: 4,628
    In terms of winter riding roadwise... Didcot - oxfordshire area and ice on roads. Who comes/is/rides as a commute out there and the genuine likelihood of needing traction ie studded tyres? I've got the mtb (with spangly new Ugo wheels) and so need the tyres if indeed needed but being used to the london weather not really ever needed it. Snow on cobbles obviously is fecking lethal but that aside... and gear I have sorted plus my ridiculous heat generating capabilities will be okay as long as I am windproof - cue windproof gilet > gore phantom 2 > gore windproof as needed. Knee warmers and/arm warmers, full thermal longs plus 3/4 overs/rain legs and overshoes.
    Le Cannon [98 Cannondale M400] [FCN: 8]
    The Mad Monkey [2013 Hoy 003] [FCN: 4]
  • holiver
    holiver Posts: 729
    itboffin wrote:
    Deep pockets as you begin to realise how much new stuff you "need".
    Ain't that the truth!

    For me it is my hands and toes that get freezing cold.
  • Kieran_Burns
    Kieran_Burns Posts: 9,757
    MRS has pretty much nailed it above. My experiences are similar but I've never managed < -10C here. -8C was the coldest, but you do need to know what the actual temp is and simply layer accordingly.

    I have an external thermometer which lets me know what's needed and I know that in the Winter, the country lanes are generally 2 degrees colder than the village I live in.

    I have winter shoes (MW80s) and also use neoprene overshoes for the coldest days (poor circulation in my extremities) and use glove liners for the same reason. Buffs are a godsend and keeping your head covered really helps with keeping you warm. I use a buff for the neck and lower face (inc ears), and a skull cap for the top. Good wrap around glasses keep the wind out of your eyes and a peak on the helmet keep the worst of the rain away.

    I went through last winter with the GP 4Seasons but the year before I was on the studded tyres a few times... sounds like riding over rice krispies.

    Oh, accept you will be slower and stop worrying about matching Summer times.
    Chunky Cyclists need your love too! :-)
    2009 Specialized Tricross Sport
    2011 Trek Madone 4.5
    2012 Felt F65X
    Proud CX Pervert and quiet roadie. 12 mile commuter
  • I think it's a good idea to hunt through your current non-cycling stuff and see what you can use.

    Eg my yeti gaiters are much better than any overshoes as they are knee length and allow me to use my clip less pedals.
    Thick gloves, under helmet hat and an exposure blaze rear light are all needed for me. Oh, and if it's a waterproof pannier then it's the ortlieb roller classic you need.

    One more from me is the crud road racer mk 2 full length mudguards. I feel sorry for riders I see without any guards and they are covered in muck.

    I know I'm not the coolest looking commuter out there, but my kit means I can commute comfortably whatever the weather. *for Icey days I take the mtb and go XC.
  • dodgy
    dodgy Posts: 2,890
    Some great tips here. One thing I'll add is to have a layer to cope with the 'shock' of entering the cold, you'll take this off after a few miles. Just a thin windproof layer is what I do.
  • tangled_metal
    tangled_metal Posts: 4,021
    Jeepie1999 wrote:
    I think it's a good idea to hunt through your current non-cycling stuff and see what you can use.

    Eg my yeti gaiters are much better than any overshoes as they are knee length and allow me to use my clip less pedals.
    Thick gloves, under helmet hat and an exposure blaze rear light are all needed for me. Oh, and if it's a waterproof pannier then it's the ortlieb roller classic you need.

    One more from me is the crud road racer mk 2 full length mudguards. I feel sorry for riders I see without any guards and they are covered in muck.

    I know I'm not the coolest looking commuter out there, but my kit means I can commute comfortably whatever the weather. *for Icey days I take the mtb and go XC.
    I was riding in wet weather into work recently and realized I hated wet shoes. That got me thinking what I had to help remedy that. Since I'm already wearing my walking overtrousers (over short non-cycling but stretchy softshell walking/climbing ones) why not use a pair of Rab gaiters. I am tall so they really are needed as even walking there is a little bit of a gap below the trousers and the shoes (which I think are waterproof cycling shoes from Aldi or Lidl IIRC). I just need to stop the waster run off into the shoe opening.

    Then I will have a choice of other walking kit. Around the neck it is buff, two layers of buff (works to help with blocking wind through just one layer) then for really cold I have a windproof buff that has coped walking in -14C (actually it was about -25C or lower with windchill that day and I had it fully covering my exposed parts of the face with only my glasses (spectacles) showing. A classic case of manning TFU that day even if I had full on primaloft mitts and other apparel on (cold enoug for thermal long johns that day and I only get them out on serious cold days).

    Planning on getting some SKS full guards on my hybrid shortly. Also looking at one of the lezyne front lights (250, 350 or 550 lumens depending on which one comes in at less than £65 top budget). Don;t wear helmets but might do for winter (don't debate helmet wearing please, I'm sick of that debate and don't want Godwin's law on a thread I started). Got the ortlieb already, a great buy.

    Don't own cycling specific clothing but am making do with walking gear which is top end so actually works well. Intend to use walking softshell trousers in winter with over trousers if needed. These are articulated and actually pre-bent at the knee plus higher at the back so perfect shape for non-cycling look on and off the bike.

    Getting out of the door, unlocking the shed, getting the bike out, re-locking the shed, replacing key in keylocker inside, then attaching the panniers, gloves on, bike computer on and zeroed then lights on and off. All done in the cold!! That for me is going to be a big hill to overcome. I have no problem with it walking but I know what that feels like (even camped out in snowy hills before now including WHW in depths of winter). It is the unknown for me. I need to get used to what the road will be like in different conditions and in the dark. Not cycled much at night. ALways got the train into town and a 5 minute ride or 15 minute walk to the office as a back up if I leave earlier.

    Going to be fun I know it!!

    PS anyone take a towel to dry off at work? No showers so thinking a light towel might be good.
  • dodgy
    dodgy Posts: 2,890
    PS anyone take a towel to dry off at work? No showers so thinking a light towel might be good.

    A microfibre towel, they're amazing. They dry (you) quick and then dry quickly when hung up. They're also light.
  • rubertoe
    rubertoe Posts: 3,994
    Hitler says you should wear a helmet.
    "If you always do what you've always done, you'll always get what you've always got."

    PX Kaffenback 2 = Work Horse
    B-Twin Alur 700 = Sundays and Hills
  • Basically get the best lights you can afford, and until you find out what works for you stick to your current plan of using your walking clothes to begin with.

    I'm coming up to my 3rd winter and what kit I have now is totally different to what kit I had back at the start...it's a learning process. Also beware of peoples recomendations - some people run hot and dont need much to wear...some people are permanently cold and wear 25 layers and still moan if it's below 10 degrees ;)

    Waterproof gear is the trickiest...and has spawned hundreds of threads...basically stay waterproof and sweat bucks in cheap gear...spend loads and still sweat a bit if you run hot...etc etc etc. Again it's something you work out for yourself.

    In the wind you might find that closer (non flapping) cycle gear is better (and dries quicker), but dont worry too much just yet.

    It's definately worth it, and once you warm up after 5-10 minutes you'll be fine for the rest of the journey the vast majority of the time (getting up early in the cold can be quick hard if you have an alternative form of transport)
  • MrSweary
    MrSweary Posts: 1,699
    menthel wrote:
    A beard... The beard has many uses, including raising your SCR number and looking cool when it gets frost in it.

    Quoted for truth.
    Kinesis Racelite 4s disc
    Kona Paddy Wagon
    Canyon Roadlite Al 7.0 - reborn as single speed!
    Felt Z85 - mangled by taxi.
  • pblakeney
    pblakeney Posts: 25,776
    What you really need to know, and will learn very quickly, is that clothing designed for walking will leave you drenched in sweat if used for cycling. No matter how good quality it is, it simply will not breathe sufficiently. Especially if you have dressed for the conditions at standstill without considering the warming up factor.

    Experiment by all means but you will come to the same conclusion eventually.
    The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
    I am not sure. You have no chance.
    Veronese68 wrote:
    PB is the most sensible person on here.
  • tangled_metal
    tangled_metal Posts: 4,021
    Basically get the best lights you can afford, and until you find out what works for you stick to your current plan of using your walking clothes to begin with.

    I'm coming up to my 3rd winter and what kit I have now is totally different to what kit I had back at the start...it's a learning process. Also beware of peoples recomendations - some people run hot and dont need much to wear...some people are permanently cold and wear 25 layers and still moan if it's below 10 degrees ;)

    Waterproof gear is the trickiest...and has spawned hundreds of threads...basically stay waterproof and sweat bucks in cheap gear...spend loads and still sweat a bit if you run hot...etc etc etc. Again it's something you work out for yourself.

    In the wind you might find that closer (non flapping) cycle gear is better (and dries quicker), but dont worry too much just yet.

    It's definitely worth it, and once you warm up after 5-10 minutes you'll be fine for the rest of the journey the vast majority of the time (getting up early in the cold can be quick hard if you have an alternative form of transport)
    Talking sense there.

    I know from outdoor forums and magazine reviews that recommendations for outdoor gear do not take into account your requirements, physiology and preferences. I know that the men's equivalent of the best buy in a walking gear/clothing review by a certain female reviewer in a certain mag always seems to work well for me. Not the women's version but the male equivalent in that brand's range. I personally don't run hot or cold. I can cope with cold or hot or not depending on how I feel that day bad night and I'm tired then cold affects me a bit more. I always believe in starting cold so when you warm up you hit the sweet spot of not too warm or cold. My best lesson learnt in other outdoors activities (whitewater kayaking through to full on winter outings in the hills).

    One thing I noticed is how you buy kit or clothing when starting out then you learn the magazine best buy doesn't work for you or you learn a bit better what you really need. Then you buy again. Then repeat. It is a total iterative method of learning what is needed.

    +1 on the flappy clothing. I learnt from seriously windy outings (I've been blown off the ground like a kite before now) that even walking clothes are better tight fitting. One windproof I own flaps so much it whips the skin and makes a loud roaring noise in winds above about 45mph. As a result the walking/climbing waterproof I use for cycling has no excess fabric and fits me like a well fitting glove (something I have never found yet).
  • vermin
    vermin Posts: 1,739
    One thing I noticed is how you buy kit or clothing when starting out then you learn the magazine best buy doesn't work for you or you learn a bit better what you really need. Then you buy again. Then repeat. It is a total iterative method of learning what is needed.

    And on that point, when buying cycling specific clothing, buy it all in the Rapha sale. When you realise it's no good for you, you will always be able to sell it on at a profit on ebay.
  • tangled_metal
    tangled_metal Posts: 4,021
    PBlakeney wrote:
    What you really need to know, and will learn very quickly, is that clothing designed for walking will leave you drenched in sweat if used for cycling. No matter how good quality it is, it simply will not breathe sufficiently. Especially if you have dressed for the conditions at standstill without considering the warming up factor.

    Experiment by all means but you will come to the same conclusion eventually.

    Start cold to run at temperature is something I've known about and practiced in the hills and other activities so I treat cycling as no different in that. I even wear a layer when getting the bike out and ready then throw it indoors just before leaving so I am warm enough to get the bike out and loaded then strip to the riding setup and shiver for a few minutes. I know all that and have found it works in a lot of activities including running so I assume it will work well (once I get it right) on the bike. Afterall the body works to regulate temperature the same way no matter what we are doing I think. BTW I fully expect this to lead to a chill if stopped at lights for some time or a short time after stopping at work. A quick warm layer to throw over when I arrive might help.

    I also don't expect to stay dry. I think nobody who had done any activity in the outdoors for a long time expects to stay dry. It is the management of the moisture and temperature that matters, even if that means living with being wet and warm. I personally have a ranking of conditions - starting with dry and warm, wet and warm then eventually in worst case situation ending up with hypothermia but warming up nicely in a hospital. I've had hypothermia (early stages due to conditions combined with inexperience among group leading to my inexperience in kit affecting me badly without hospital visit but self rescue and recovery). Doubt I'll get there again and least of all on the bike. Apart from anything else I doubt I could control a bike or even balance on one with it.
  • tangled_metal
    tangled_metal Posts: 4,021
    vermin wrote:
    One thing I noticed is how you buy kit or clothing when starting out then you learn the magazine best buy doesn't work for you or you learn a bit better what you really need. Then you buy again. Then repeat. It is a total iterative method of learning what is needed.

    And on that point, when buying cycling specific clothing, buy it all in the Rapha sale. When you realise it's no good for you, you will always be able to sell it on at a profit on ebay.

    Rapha? Who are they? I'm not up on cycling trends. Are they a bit like Aldi or Lidl but down south?