Avid BB7 replacement pads

Drew123

Need some advice please...
My BB7 pads are worn out and need replacing for the first time since new. Having had a close encounter with a pair of horses on a narrow downhill section of my commute home today I'm keen to sort them. Not having had disc brakes before I have no clue as to what to replace them with... Avid or compatible, organic or sintered, or do you just buy the cheapest you can find as they're all pretty similar?

I commute 7 - 10 miles each way, 4 days a week, in most weather and through the winter on a mix of good tarmac, rough pothole strewn lanes and a farm track.

Help please before my current pads wear to the metal and I crash.

First.Aspect

Organic pads have more bite but don't last as long as sintered ones. They are also a bit cheaper. I've never noticed any difference between manufacturer's own and generics.

I have a disc cross commuter (I was an early adopter, waaaay before Meanredspider joined the band wagon) and I'd personally go with organic, at least on the front.

Set up an account at Evans or Chain Reaction and you'll find what you need. New pads will take a ride or so to bed in.

Btw there's an awful lot of absolute b0llocks talked by people about contaminating pads and having to change them in clean room conditions wearing lab gloves. Whatever you get on them will burn off eventually (but scare the living sh*t out of you in the meantime) so don't let any teenage plonkers in bike shops tell you that the second you've exposed pads to oxygen you need new ones.

rubertoe

Clarkes from chain reaction. Cheap as chips.

Go on their website and just search Bb7. Either that or superstar components. Google them.

Drew123

Sound advice - thanks to you both, and I've got KB's tips on the fettling thread for adjusting the brakes when I fit the new pads. Sorted.

MichaelW

superstarcomponents.com

meanredspider

First Aspect wrote:

(I was an early adopter, waaaay before Meanredspider joined the band wagon)

Timing is everything

Drew123 wrote:

Sound advice - thanks to you both, and I've got KB's tips on the fettling thread for adjusting the brakes when I fit the new pads. Sorted.

Do a search on the Volagi videos on BB7 on YouTube. Great videos to help you through.

holiver

I can recommend uberbikecomponents.com too.

Initialised

Avoid baradine sintered. I had these on BB5s and the pad sheared away from the backing. They were also noisier than the stock pads, but lasted longer.

Longer term, make sure you lubricate the threads on the static pad side or they'll eventually seize up and you wont be able to adjust it.

meanredspider wrote:

First Aspect wrote:

(I was an early adopter, waaaay before Meanredspider joined the band wagon)

Timing is everything

While we're 1upping has anyone else jumped on the road hydraulic disc band wagon yet?

meanredspider

Not gone full hydraulic (yet). I'm pretty happy with the HyRd so far and not sure I need hydraulic at the rear.

Kieran_Burns

Drew123 wrote:

Sound advice - thanks to you both, and I've got KB's tips on the fettling thread for adjusting the brakes when I fit the new pads. Sorted.

Please let me know how you get on. I was quite pleased to work out the (apparently) best method myself

redvee

Initialised wrote:

While we're 1upping has anyone else jumped on the road hydraulic disc band wagon yet?

I'm tempted with Tektro Hyrex but what's stopping me is the price and the lack of home fettling, unlike the BB7s I have on my SS Kaffenback currently.

asprilla

I've got Trp Hylex on one of my SS bikes and they are great. I use Superstar Kevlar pads.

veronese68

Initialised wrote:

While we're 1upping has anyone else jumped on the road hydraulic disc band wagon yet?

Not gone full hydraulic, but I too got a Parabox. Bit of dicking about to fit as it was an ex-demo and whoever removed it had lost some fastenings. Got it sorted and I'm very pleased with it. No more powerful than BB7s but better feel.

First.Aspect

Veronese68 wrote:

Initialised wrote:

While we're 1upping has anyone else jumped on the road hydraulic disc band wagon yet?

Not gone full hydraulic, but I too got a Parabox. Bit of dicking about to fit as it was an ex-demo and whoever removed it had lost some fastenings. Got it sorted and I'm very pleased with it. No more powerful than BB7s but better feel.

I've got a Hope V-Twin setup (for about 2 years now - what's taking you guys so long?).

Its fine but I'd really like to replace it with a full hydraulic setup. The problem is I have some rather nice 10 speed shimano wheels. So, to go to hydro with shimano would cost about £500 for the brifters plus the same again for wheels. To do the same with Sram s700's looks like about £400 per shifter.

So, I think I'll wait until they stop profiteering.

rubertoe

I was out on an introductory ride with my club yesterday its amazing how many people ask about discs on a road bike and I always say the same thing. I love them and I can't wait for hydraulics for the masses.

I was on the K2 rather than the Bman.

meanredspider

First Aspect wrote:

(for about 2 years now - what's taking you guys so long?)

I'm not yet convinced that the cost is worth it over the HyRd - besides that, my cables are internally routed and I don't think I can do the same with hoses. Di2 Hydraulic brake sets are relatively cheap (if you can find them). I didn't like the Parabox or V-Twin - seemed like a clunky solution.

First.Aspect

meanredspider wrote:

First Aspect wrote:

(for about 2 years now - what's taking you guys so long?)

I'm not yet convinced that the cost is worth it over the HyRd - besides that, my cables are internally routed and I don't think I can do the same with hoses. Di2 Hydraulic brake sets are relatively cheap (if you can find them). I didn't like the Parabox or V-Twin - seemed like a clunky solution.

They are a clunky solution, but they work better than the avids.

I have external routing, but not adapted for brake hoses either - I have an acceptable workaround (or alternatively I could just try to adapt the cable end stops). My problem is the routing of Di2 cables. I never understood why they couldn't set that up to enable use of normal cable runs, but they haven't and I don't want to strap cable ties around most of the tubes on my bike. But if I could install Di2 at all tidily, I would.

Mind you - I've got a di2 wonder bike n + 1 on order (rim brakes and Ti lovliness) and its entirely possible that the experience might tip the balance towards di2 on both bikes.

veronese68

Several people on the Paddle London 86 commented that I appeared to have the perfect bike for the conditions. Given how changeable our weather can be I take that to mean I have the perfect bike. Can't say I disagree.
Now I'm looking at a new bike I see no need to change it. So I'm getting a new MTB for dicking about on and an old steel bike because I can.
The Parabox is an inelegant solution to say the least, but I thought it a better compromise than the HyRd as it has a tiny cable run so virtually eliminates the problem of gunked up cables in winter.

tgotb

Veronese68 wrote:

The Parabox is an inelegant solution to say the least, but I thought it a better compromise than the HyRd as it has a tiny cable run so virtually eliminates the problem of gunked up cables in winter.

^ This.

I switched from Spyre to Parabox for 'cross, mid last season, and went from having to replace the "sealed" cables every 2-3 weeks, to having to do no brake maintenance at all for the remainder of the season. The Parabox/V-Twin cable runs are in just about the only part of the bike to stay more or less mud free, whereas the calipers are in one of the muddiest parts of the bike. For me, this is a far bigger advantage than any improvement in power or modulation/feel, and for that reason alone I wouldn't bother with the HyRd. Sure, road riding is a more benign environment, but the principles are the same (and on a road bike, you don't tend to ride on the edge of traction, so modulation/feel is less important anyway).

meanredspider

TGOTB wrote:

Veronese68 wrote:

The Parabox is an inelegant solution to say the least, but I thought it a better compromise than the HyRd as it has a tiny cable run so virtually eliminates the problem of gunked up cables in winter.

^ This.

I switched from Spyre to Parabox for 'cross, mid last season, and went from having to replace the "sealed" cables every 2-3 weeks, to having to do no brake maintenance at all for the remainder of the season. The Parabox/V-Twin cable runs are in just about the only part of the bike to stay more or less mud free, whereas the calipers are in one of the muddiest parts of the bike. For me, this is a far bigger advantage than any improvement in power or modulation/feel, and for that reason alone I wouldn't bother with the HyRd. Sure, road riding is a more benign environment, but the principles are the same (and on a road bike, you don't tend to ride on the edge of traction, so modulation/feel is less important anyway).

I guess I can see this though the Gore Ride-On (Pros IIRC) that I have on the front have been pretty faultless in that respect. You're only talking about 10mm of cable in any case on internally routed cables (even if dirt does get inside the bellows) - it shouldn't be hard to keep that running freely.

meanredspider

First Aspect wrote:

But if I could install Di2 at all tidily, I would.

I had no issues with using the Di2 sheath but the underside of my bike is black so it's well-hidden. It's stayed well stuck- down for 3 years now.

Roastie

Having gone through a few different types of pads on my BB7 equipped everyday bike - I'd recommend sticking with organic pads over sintered - the main reason being better initial bite with the organic pads and less noise.

I've tried several pads, by far the noisiest are the Avid sintered pads I currently have on. Also, I'd definitely recommend Superstar's stuff.

Roastie

meanredspider wrote:

I'm not yet convinced that the cost is worth it over the HyRd - besides that, my cables are internally routed and I don't think I can do the same with hoses. Di2 Hydraulic brake sets are relatively cheap (if you can find them). I didn't like the Parabox or V-Twin - seemed like a clunky solution.

I can't see why internal routing should be a problem with hydraulic - just a lot more fiddly to set up.

meanredspider

Roastie wrote:

meanredspider wrote:

I'm not yet convinced that the cost is worth it over the HyRd - besides that, my cables are internally routed and I don't think I can do the same with hoses. Di2 Hydraulic brake sets are relatively cheap (if you can find them). I didn't like the Parabox or V-Twin - seemed like a clunky solution.

I can't see why internal routing should be a problem with hydraulic - just a lot more fiddly to set up.

Well, I haven't looked at it closely but the cable runs in a shroud within the frame rather than a normal cable outer. I can't see how I'd remove that shroud

Initialised

meanredspider wrote:

Roastie wrote:

meanredspider wrote:

I'm not yet convinced that the cost is worth it over the HyRd - besides that, my cables are internally routed and I don't think I can do the same with hoses. Di2 Hydraulic brake sets are relatively cheap (if you can find them). I didn't like the Parabox or V-Twin - seemed like a clunky solution.

I can't see why internal routing should be a problem with hydraulic - just a lot more fiddly to set up.

Well, I haven't looked at it closely but the cable runs in a shroud within the frame rather than a normal cable outer. I can't see how I'd remove that shroud

Most internal routing is done like this, it's the only thing that puts me off the frame. Not that I could justify it right now...

I think a device like the Parabox or V-Twins would be ideal if it was built into a stem (so mostly invisible). I'm more than happy with the performance of the Parabox and it shares the same pads and fluid as my MTB so maintenance is simplified. Shame about the ugly box hanging under the stem.

Roastie

meanredspider wrote:

Roastie wrote:

meanredspider wrote:

I'm not yet convinced that the cost is worth it over the HyRd - besides that, my cables are internally routed and I don't think I can do the same with hoses. Di2 Hydraulic brake sets are relatively cheap (if you can find them). I didn't like the Parabox or V-Twin - seemed like a clunky solution.

I can't see why internal routing should be a problem with hydraulic - just a lot more fiddly to set up.

Well, I haven't looked at it closely but the cable runs in a shroud within the frame rather than a normal cable outer. I can't see how I'd remove that shroud

Ah right, see what you mean. Odd that, all the internal routed brake cables I've seen have been a continuous full outer routed internally (unlike gear cables which are as you describe) in order to be "hydro-ready".

Could be done, but it would be a one way modification that would invalidate the warranty!

Drew123

Kieran_Burns wrote:

Drew123 wrote:

Sound advice - thanks to you both, and I've got KB's tips on the fettling thread for adjusting the brakes when I fit the new pads. Sorted.

Please let me know how you get on. I was quite pleased to work out the (apparently) best method myself

Will do - but it won't be for a few weeks as I'm off for a couple of weeks in the sun.

Thanks all for all the advice.

Drew123

Ordered some cheap organic pads some time ago, but only got round to fitting them today.

I loosely followed KB's instructions although lost my way a little when the plate holding the outer pad sprang out of the housing... so I then got a bit side-tracked dismantling the entire mechanism in order to refit the plate. Still I now understand how it all works, plus it's a whole lot cleaner and the adjusting dials are all nicely lubricated with GT85. It was only two extra Allen bolts to remove and given how freely the adjusting dials turn now I'm inclined to do it whenever I change pads.

Only slight tweak to KB's instructions was to give the rotor a slight squeeze before clamping the cable... both front and rear seem to have some free movement in the rotor arm when you pull the brake lever before the pad moves in...

Very happy with the bite now. Now I just need to bed them in....

1. Nice downhill sections on my commute for heavy braking? Check.
2. Off road gritty, sandy, gravel sections for abrasion? Check.
3. Rain forecast for grinding it all in? Check.