Frustrating headset problem
Matt_France
Posts: 4
Hi Guys,
I have a frustrating problem with my CAAD10 2012 headset. I recently had a warranty replacement streerer issued after a problem. But since then, I cannot get my headset adjusted properly. I'm familiar with the set up, using the pre-load adjuster first and then adjusting the side bolts. But I just simply can't eliminate play in the headset. Could it be wear on the bearings? Should I look to replace them?
Any suggestions greatly received, many thanks.
I have a frustrating problem with my CAAD10 2012 headset. I recently had a warranty replacement streerer issued after a problem. But since then, I cannot get my headset adjusted properly. I'm familiar with the set up, using the pre-load adjuster first and then adjusting the side bolts. But I just simply can't eliminate play in the headset. Could it be wear on the bearings? Should I look to replace them?
Any suggestions greatly received, many thanks.
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Comments
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Does it have an expander plug (bung) in the fork? It's probably pulling out of the fork as you tighten it. The expanding bolt may not be tight enough, or you may need some carbon grip paste, or it may just be a rubbish plug.0
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Yes I do have an expander plug poking down into the fork. I'll try and dig out some carbon paste and give that a go.0
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Unfortunately no luck there. Should I try ordering a new plug? Is there anything else I could try?0
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Get a replacement headset kit.. cheapest is
http://www.tredz.co.uk/.Cannondale-EVO- ... _55031.htm
it fits the Caad10.... you dont need any paste or such like by the way.
Take a good look at the fork.. is the crown race properly seated?
The only issue with the Caad.. is that bad road surfaces will necessitate a tightening up regime.. the push fit seated bearings have to deal with a lot of abuse.. if you ride wet weather, water and grit also makes for bad bearing humour.
Oh, note .. Caad10 being a race bred frame does not like too many spacers under or over the stem .. it likes things cut and slammed correctly.. you have to adapt to it ;-)0 -
The solution is not 'buy a whole new headset'. :roll: And saying it "doesn't like spacers" is just confusing the matter.
Granted, some expanders are crap, but a properly adjusted and tightened headset should not need adjusting every time you ride over a rough surface.
OP, you didn't say what you did to it. Did you try tightening the expander plug? What happened?0 -
Just something to check - make sure the inside bottom of top-cap doesn't foul the top of the bung before the outside edge of the top-cap pushes down on the stem or the top spacer. I've had this happen and you can never eliminate play - you just end up pulling the bung up or breaking it.
To check, just add another spacer (or use a larger spacer) above the stem, below the top-cap. Do this, even if there's no steerer showing above the stem - you'll just need to hold it in place as you tighten the top-cap.0 -
MajorMantra wrote:The solution is not 'buy a whole new headset'. :roll: And saying it "doesn't like spacers" is just confusing the matter.
Granted, some expanders are crap, but a properly adjusted and tightened headset should not need adjusting every time you ride over a rough surface.
OP, you didn't say what you did to it. Did you try tightening the expander plug? What happened?
err.. the headset thing.. the bung on its own can cost almost the same as the set I quoted....
anyways never did say after every ride, but also depends on how hard you ride.
on races on our roads with no holding back you cannot from time to time have to 'crash' thru some bad surfaces at high speed.. thats the above normal wear and tear that i was possibly referring to.. and yes it demands above normal maintenance routine in readiness for the next race ..
I have had enough dnfs but never due to mechanicals...
I reckon a new bung and a looksee at the crown race on the replacement steerer (sic) .. I am assuming he means new forks.. as opposed to what he describes as new steerer... but that's a bit ambiguous.0 -
g00se wrote:Just something to check - make sure the inside bottom of top-cap doesn't foul the top of the bung before the outside edge of the top-cap pushes down on the stem or the top spacer. I've had this happen and you can never eliminate play - you just end up pulling the bung up or breaking it.
I fear I have done the same thing you mention here... the top cap bolt is now stuck in the bung and can be pulled out of the steerer... what have I done!!! Can it be fixed? What I have I broken? What do I need new and how can I fix it... sorry for all the questions! really pee-ed off as took the headset apart to grease it and it would not go back without play... likely over tightened the top cap bolt and now its a real mess.... Help!0 -
If you've pulled the bung out and it's broken, just get a new one and top cap if necessary.0
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g00se wrote:If you've pulled the bung out and it's broken, just get a new one and top cap if necessary.
Hi, the bung could be pulled out very easily, the top cap bolt was fully tightened into it - managed to release it and inspect the bung - the bottom wedge of the bung has a plastic ridge to I assume but up against the metal case which expands and prevents the bottom wedge from turning when you tighten the bung with the 6mm alan key - this looked pretty worn - but I have managed to get it all working again now with the bung tight and sitting in place nicely and the top cap back on tight, and everything seems ok with no play. Question is... is it safe? Should I get a replacement one anyway and install that just to be on the safe side?
The bung I have looks very much like this one >
Should I replace like for like? 0 -
The bung does one thing - possibly two.
It's main job - like a star nut in a metal steerer - is to give the top cap bolt something to hold on to - so it can preload the headset. Once that's set and the stem bolts lightened, you could actually remove the top cap - and arguably the bung - without any issue for the bike.
The other job it can perform is help prevent crushing of the steerer tube if you accidentally over-tighten the stem bolts. But I'm not sure how valid that is- as it would need to be a full length type bung (as you can get short ones) and even if it stops the steerer cracking, you still may end up deforming the outside surface.0 -
Sorry - didn't actually say:
So I think your fine. If it's working, then there's no problem.0
