Truing Wheels

sherer
sherer Posts: 2,460
edited August 2014 in Workshop
Made it round the Ride 100 with no issues and put the bike in the back of the car for journey home.

When I wheeled it back inside the house I noticed the brakes were rubbing against the rims on the front and back wheels. I assume this means they may need a bit of a true up.

Is this something I can do myself ? Last time I got the LBS to do this for me, although their service was top notch and afterwards was the smoothest the bike has ever been.

Comments

  • Rodders30
    Rodders30 Posts: 314
    I've had a go and wouldn't bother again. Personally I would get someone to do it that knows what they are doing.
    Trek 1.5 Road
    Haro MTB
  • lpretro1
    lpretro1 Posts: 237
    Have you checked brake is centred properly before thinking about wheel?
  • sherer
    sherer Posts: 2,460
    thanks.

    From the above am I right that the wheels need a true up ? Had the bike laid flat in the car but maybe the weight etc has caused an issue.
  • sherer
    sherer Posts: 2,460
    lpretro1 wrote:
    Have you checked brake is centred properly before thinking about wheel?

    Not yet, how would I check that am still new to fixing things with the bike.

    When they setup my wheel the brakes are very close to the rim anyway
  • arlowood
    arlowood Posts: 2,561
    sherer wrote:
    thanks.

    From the above am I right that the wheels need a true up ? Had the bike laid flat in the car but maybe the weight etc has caused an issue.

    It's possible that with the bike on its side , the calipers were nudged a little bit, taking them off-centre.

    To re-centre the brakes just slacken of the caliper securing bolt a fraction (ie the one that holds the calipers onto the front forks and rear seatstay bridge). Move the wheel round so that the valve is in line with the brake pads (this just gives you a point of reference on the rim). Release the brake cable securing bolt completely. Squeeze the caliper arms together until they are against the rims. While holding them there with one hand, tighten the cable anchoring bolt and then the caliper securing bolt.

    That should get your brakes pretty well centered. You may have to tweak things a little to stop the pads binding but once the wheels are spinning freely you should be able to check if they are out of true by watching the gap between the brake pads
  • sherer
    sherer Posts: 2,460
    arlowood wrote:
    sherer wrote:
    thanks.

    From the above am I right that the wheels need a true up ? Had the bike laid flat in the car but maybe the weight etc has caused an issue.

    It's possible that with the bike on its side , the calipers were nudged a little bit, taking them off-centre.

    To re-centre the brakes just slacken of the caliper securing bolt a fraction (ie the one that holds the calipers onto the front forks and rear seatstay bridge). Move the wheel round so that the valve is in line with the brake pads (this just gives you a point of reference on the rim). Release the brake cable securing bolt completely. Squeeze the caliper arms together until they are against the rims. While holding them there with one hand, tighten the cable anchoring bolt and then the caliper securing bolt.

    That should get your brakes pretty well centered. You may have to tweak things a little to stop the pads binding but once the wheels are spinning freely you should be able to check if they are out of true by watching the gap between the brake pads

    Thank you. Will give that a go at the weekend. Might have a quick search on youtube it's amazing how many videos there are on there that help to show you what to do. Did my first puncture change after watching youtube clips
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    I think it's far more likely that your calipers have taken a knock in the back of the car than both wheels going out of true on one ride.

    I can generally centre my calipers by hand without faffing with the bolt.
  • lpretro1
    lpretro1 Posts: 237
    On most modern road bike brakes there is a centering screw on the top of the caliper - sometimes Phillips head sometimes allen key. This means you do not have to undo the mounting bolt. Simply trun screw and you'll see pads moving one way or other. Aim to get them even both sides - checking whilst you do that the wheel is not being pushed to either side when applying brake