Road frame rear mech hanger / MTB cassette / b-tension woes
I put an 11-32 cassette on a road frame. Jockey wheels on the rear mech rub with the b-tension all the way in.
Conclusion: Whoever made the frame and/or rear mech hanger, only allowed something like a 28T or 30T max sprocket. I can even put a square block of metal in under the screw and make the drivetrain run perfectly.
I noticed my old frame's mech hanger (where this gearing setup worked because that hanger has more metal on the notch) has different spacing on the fixing mounts!
How can I solve this with a new mech hanger? I mean can you just buy them or does each frame have their own "however it comes out" methods? The bolts on it are closer together than my other frame.
Honestly, not putting a big enough notch on is crazy. If someone welded a tiny square block of metal to it (with a nice neat semicircle for the screw to properly go on it flat) it would fix it. The thing needs at least another 3mm-4mm of a mech hanger.
Gonna try a new mech but if that doesn't work I will try the rear mech I have with 10T jockey wheels. :roll:
If that doesn't work its back to the 11-28T cassette again but I miss the 11-32T "in-between" gears. I can avoid changing gear on the chainrings more if I run an 11-32 over an 11-28.
Conclusion: Whoever made the frame and/or rear mech hanger, only allowed something like a 28T or 30T max sprocket. I can even put a square block of metal in under the screw and make the drivetrain run perfectly.
I noticed my old frame's mech hanger (where this gearing setup worked because that hanger has more metal on the notch) has different spacing on the fixing mounts!
How can I solve this with a new mech hanger? I mean can you just buy them or does each frame have their own "however it comes out" methods? The bolts on it are closer together than my other frame.
Honestly, not putting a big enough notch on is crazy. If someone welded a tiny square block of metal to it (with a nice neat semicircle for the screw to properly go on it flat) it would fix it. The thing needs at least another 3mm-4mm of a mech hanger.
Gonna try a new mech but if that doesn't work I will try the rear mech I have with 10T jockey wheels. :roll:
If that doesn't work its back to the 11-28T cassette again but I miss the 11-32T "in-between" gears. I can avoid changing gear on the chainrings more if I run an 11-32 over an 11-28.
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Comments
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Did a makeshift fix on it by reversing the b-tension screw and having literally 2 threads of it in. Doing this gives you about 4mm extra on the hanger notch. Screw head is only on the lip of the hanger by about 1mm but I am past the point of caring. It just about doesn't rumble on the jockey wheels when in the lowest gear. One turn of that screw and it will be rumbling again, tried it.
This Alivio mech isn't any good, when in the lowest gear the swingarm has a lot of play, can't say that about the 20+ year old XT mech or the older Deore "RD-MT60" mech (first ever MTB mech?)
The main spring on the Alivio is a joke.
Just buy Ultegra/Dura-Ace XT/XTR or pay twice lol.0 -
use a mtb mech
road mechs are generally only rated to 28t, although the newer ones often go to 30tFacts are meaningless, you can use facts to prove anything that's remotely true! - Homer0 -
Use an Allen-headed bolt screwed in from the opposite side. The larger head may do the trick. In the past I've built up the B screw platform with an Arc welder.0
