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Gear / Chain Advice

davegrixdavegrix Posts: 6
edited August 2014 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi guys n girls.

I have a RockRider 5.3 2011 model that I have been riding for some years and am currently giving a bit of a refresh on a few bits and bobs.

I have noticed that over the years I am using less and less of the 27 gears, on my daily commute I generally only use 22 through 27.

I reliase some of this is probably my legs getting stronger, but I have my suspicions about the chain and stretching, its one of those with a release pin so I have taken the occasional link out to try an combat the 'easyness' of the pedalling.

Is there anything else that this could be?

I am a complete novice so nice simple English would be greatly received!

Posts

  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,811
    Is there anything else that what could be?
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • cooldadcooldad Posts: 32,599
    All that taking links out of the chain will do is rip your mech off when it gets too short.
    Nothing at all to do with how 'easy' it is to pedal.

    Presumably your commute is pretty flat.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

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  • davegrixdavegrix Posts: 6
    Yeah, no more than 100m height difference over 5 miles in Yorkshire.

    Thanks for the tip on the chain.

    Sorry, my question was really, why is it easier to pedal than I feel it should be? Is there something mechanical that could have worn on the bike that requires me to use higher gears for maintaining speed? For instance on flat at around 18-20mph there is no more tension in the chain to increase speed until I shift into 25th or above gear, it tops out at about 26mph in 27th gear, its basically like trying to pedal down hill and increase speed in 1st gear!
  • Antm81Antm81 Posts: 1,406
    It's most likely that you're fitter, I've found things usually get harder if something is wrong.

    I'd be looking at changing the front chainrings if you are topping out constantly to something bigger.
    Trance 27.5 Hoodoo Her Scott Contessa Daughter's Vulcan
  • cooldadcooldad Posts: 32,599
    Buy a road bike.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,811
    If something being wrong makes it easier, let me know what it is so I can put that fault on my bike!

    As CD says, randomly taking links out can cause serious and dangerous issues, I suggest you get a chain properly sized.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • davegrixdavegrix Posts: 6
    Antm81 wrote:
    It's most likely that you're fitter, I've found things usually get harder if something is wrong.

    I'd be looking at changing the front chainrings if you are topping out constantly to something bigger.
    Thanks, as a complete amatuer I assume this is the three cogs in the middle of the bike? I take it this are not all compatiable with one another and some further research would be required?
    cooldad wrote:
    Buy a road bike.

    I have thought about it but two thing stop me, 1) Outside of my commute I don't always ride on road, and 2) I have never been comfortable in the position that road bikes seem to put you in, I have no confidence in leaning over the front wheel.
    The Rookie wrote:
    If something being wrong makes it easier, let me know what it is so I can put that fault on my bike!

    As CD says, randomly taking links out can cause serious and dangerous issues, I suggest you get a chain properly sized.

    I will take it to my local bike shop and get them to correctly size me a new chain.

    Ha ha, perhaps not a fault as such, I just feel that what I consider 'easy pedalling' should happen lower down the gears!
  • Antm81Antm81 Posts: 1,406
    Yeah the chain rings are the front cogs where the pedals are, what will fit will depend on your cranks (the arms between the cogs and pedals). Your local bike shop should be able to help source some bigger rings.
    Trance 27.5 Hoodoo Her Scott Contessa Daughter's Vulcan
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,811
    Why not do the chain yourself, it will be much cheaper!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • davegrixdavegrix Posts: 6
    The Rookie wrote:
    Why not do the chain yourself, it will be much cheaper!

    Thanks, had a look online for a 'ideal chain length chart' and will give that ago, I have some new brakes arriving in a couple of days, I have managed to mangle the pad adjustment on my rear brake so I can't change it when the brakes start to wear, new pads every month is getting expensive!

    I had the tektro io's on here that came with the bike and after reading some reviews are replacing them with some avid BB7's.
  • cooldadcooldad Posts: 32,599
    Just put it round big/big, missing out the mech, and add a link.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • davegrixdavegrix Posts: 6
    cooldad wrote:
    Just put it round big/big, missing out the mech, and add a link.

    Now thats nice simple advice I can follow!

    Many thanks to all :-)
  • LondonscottishLondonscottish Posts: 62
    davegrix wrote:
    cooldad wrote:
    Just put it round big/big, missing out the mech, and add a link.

    Now thats nice simple advice I can follow!

    Many thanks to all :-)

    As others have said it's all about gear ratios. You have a couple of options; fit a larger chainring or change the cassette.

    My Hardrock came with a 44 tooth chainring, I've just fitted a 46 tooth. The downside is that there will be a bigger gap in gearing between the chainrings but that's academic if you always stay on the largest one anyway. And and a two teeth change is minimal.

    The other thing you could do is to change the rear cassette. I'm currently running a 12-28 7sp setup but have just got hold of some s/h rims that take an 8 speed cassette. I've ordered an 11-30. This will also nudge the gearing up.
  • Chunkers1980Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    You'll need to change shifters to use all the gears though.
  • LondonscottishLondonscottish Posts: 62
    Chunkers1980 wrote:
    You'll need to change shifters to use all the gears though.

    The bike's already got 8 speed shifters - for now I've just adjusted them to run against a 7 speed cassette (the wheels came off a previous bike I had).

    I've got a set of s/h Mavics on the way from a 9 speed bike so the 8 speed cassette should just drop onto that free hub.

    I hope.....

    Anyway, the theory is that I get some decent black rims which would suit the bike better and a higher top gear. And a spare 7 speed wheelset and groupset and brakes to go towards a retro project of some description in the future.
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