Spoke length, What error margin do I have?

brady10
brady10 Posts: 195
edited August 2014 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi guys, lacing come superstar hubs onto Nukeproof Rims.

DT Swiss Calc has spat out these figures:

Front: 258.5 L 259.4 R
Rear: 260 L 259.10 R

Which size and how many spokes of each size would you guys buy?

Cheers
WOW really? Carbon Fibre Hubs?? Well how about chucking that kebab in the bin?

Comments

  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Perosnally I'd just buy 259mm for the lot.
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  • stubs
    stubs Posts: 5,001
    supersonic wrote:
    Perosnally I'd just buy 259mm for the lot.

    This ^^^

    I wouldnt call myself an experienced wheelbuilder but I have built a few wheels over the years and I have found a mm either way is fine.

    Sometimes if you try putting a different nipple size into the calculator say 12mm instead of 14mm (or vice versa) you get a more common size come up. I have found that some shops only stock for example Black 258mm or 260mm but will only sell 259mm in silver or plain guage.
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  • brady10
    brady10 Posts: 195
    Cheers guys. 259 job lot has saved some coins!!
    WOW really? Carbon Fibre Hubs?? Well how about chucking that kebab in the bin?
  • brady10
    brady10 Posts: 195
    Hi guys. Have laced up the front wheel no problems. However using the 259's either side on the rear as you suggested seems not to be working. Some spokes are far too long and others are far too short when all spokes are tight.

    Could it be to do with my way of lacing?

    Cheers
    WOW really? Carbon Fibre Hubs?? Well how about chucking that kebab in the bin?
  • stubs
    stubs Posts: 5,001
    Have you checked the dishing is spot on because i am surprised that 0.8mm would make a noticeable difference.
    Fig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap
  • brady10
    brady10 Posts: 195
    I concur. The difference in the extreme spokes was way out of 0.8mm. Must be my lacing. (I Hope)

    I have no pro tools for the dishing but the hub seemed pretty central in the rim if that's what you mean?
    WOW really? Carbon Fibre Hubs?? Well how about chucking that kebab in the bin?
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Dished does not mean central. That's your problem.
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  • CitizenLee
    CitizenLee Posts: 2,227
    Do you not need to slightly offset the drive side for the cassette?
    Current:
    NukeProof Mega FR 2012
    Cube NuRoad 2018
    Previous:
    2015 Genesis CdF 10, 2014 Cube Hyde Race, 2012 NS Traffic, 2007 Specialized SX Trail, 2005 Specialized Demo 8
  • brady10
    brady10 Posts: 195
    Central in the drop-outs right?

    Anyway, could this really affect the spoke engaging with the nipples?
    WOW really? Carbon Fibre Hubs?? Well how about chucking that kebab in the bin?
  • CitizenLee
    CitizenLee Posts: 2,227
    The rim will be central in the dropouts, but not with the hub flanges.

    Do you have any other rear wheels to look at? You'll see the driveside spokes don't come out as far as the non driveside to account for the cassette.
    Current:
    NukeProof Mega FR 2012
    Cube NuRoad 2018
    Previous:
    2015 Genesis CdF 10, 2014 Cube Hyde Race, 2012 NS Traffic, 2007 Specialized SX Trail, 2005 Specialized Demo 8
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Put the wheel in a frame, is the rim central between chain and seat stays (use a hardtail).
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • stubs
    stubs Posts: 5,001
    You dont need pro tools to check the dish. Either do as The Rookie says or you can make a dishing tool out of a piece of cardboard and a ruler, spoke or similar as the centre point.

    20120804-tsjw0341.jpg

    Not mine but very similar I use a spoke clipped to the cardboard with a bulldog clip.
    Fig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap

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