Minimal groupset for MTB racing

Janis_R
Janis_R Posts: 3
edited August 2014 in MTB workshop & tech
I have a cheap-end Merida MTB bike (Kalahari K8) which is some 5 years old already. Currently I am using it for commuting it is doing its job perfectly.

However, recently I have decided to try to participate in some local amateur races next spring/summer – 40-60 km distances, mix of trails/road/off-road. My current bike most likely needs to be upgraded to save me unnecessary technical trouble during the races. My main concern would be the failure of rear shifter/derailleur.

Currently my bike has Shimano lower level groupset, which despite regular maintenance is also starting to show signs of retirement. My wish is to use the existing frame and upgrade it gradually during the ½ year.

Can somebody please recommend (based on your own experience, not just product descriptions) what is the minimal Shimano or Sram level of groupset to save me unnecessary technical problems during the races? Is Deore or X5 enough for the job? Or do I have to aim higher? Should I mix&match various levels – for example Deore cranks, XT derailleurs?

The main challenge is to do the upgrade with a minimal cost for the stated purpose, otherwise I would certainly go for XTR or XX1, but than the level of bike would 10 times exceed my skills and abilities. :D

Comments

  • Full deore groupset would be fine. Reliable, tough and cheap.
    The more you go up the range, the less it weighs. But the more it costs to buy/replace.
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    Why do you think what you have will cause you technical problems? No reason to think it'll be any issue. If you've got an entry level bike I'd not throw money at the groupset.
  • Going off your initial post I don't want to pre judge but how technically competent are you in relation to fitting new parts and general cycle maintenance ? if you aren't overly confident find a good local bike shop, check on forums such as this one for info on shops around your area, go along and explain exactly what you have in mind for the year ahead and ask for a check up.

    You may find that a good service resolves a lot of issues, if not then ask which parts need replacing and in which order of priority, armed with your list of goodies scour the web for the best prices possible, sourcing parts online can often lead to some very palpable savings!

    As already said Deore offers a great deal of performance per pound, if you were in need of a whole new groupset then I'd go with that, possibly switching some parts out where a good deal can be found, I recently completed a build using a mix of Deore and SLX, a good example of my point is the rear mech, my LBS has the SLX clutch 10 spd rear mech on offer at only £2 more than a Deore equivalent, although there's no real difference between the two that little extra for such a miserly sum made sense.

    Assuming brakes, wheels etc are all in good order a new drivetrain at Deore level can be had for £150, comprising of shifters, cassette, front+rear mechs, chain and chainset and bottom bracket. with those in place and the bike service there's no reason why you can't do what you have in mind.
  • benpinnick
    benpinnick Posts: 4,148
    Deore is great, the only real difference in use between deore and XT is the weight (obviously but thats not enough to justify the price difference) and the fact XT shifters have multi release. Other than that when you pedal and shift gears you'd be hard pushed to tell the difference.
    A Flock of Birds
    + some other bikes.
  • Janis_R
    Janis_R Posts: 3
    Thank you all for replies!

    In reply to njee20: It’s just my guess that some unpredictability/unreliability of switching gears which is at acceptable level in everyday riding will highly increase in race conditions. Gear switching is not very smooth, precise and flawless in the current setup. If I’ll have to switch up and down often and not always being able to do that not pedalling hard – I’m afraid the ride will turn out into large disappointment.

    Thank you (snapdragon) for the suggestion on consulting at bike shops. My technical skills and experience are actually on reasonable level, but I certainly do not possess the skills of those guys. I did consider visiting shops, but did dismiss it due to enormous price differences for parts at local shops and on ebay.co.uk, bike24.com or chainreactioncycles.com. For example, the price for exact same Deore cranks model is almost x2 higher at local shops (most likely this is due to small market size). If I can get advice from shops, go acquire parts somewhere else and then come back to install them, it might be a good solution.

    From your posts I understand that a range from Deore and SLX to XT should do the work. I will try to get more advice at local shops on best sequence of upgrade and possible mix of parts.

    And thanks everyone for replays!
  • buddy_club
    buddy_club Posts: 935
    Depending on your LBS, they might be a bit iffy about you asking their advice, then buying parts from somewhere else, then asking them to help you fit it, but fitting stuff shouldnt cost much, what is the spec of your current bike anyway?
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  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Doing most jobs on a bike is not difficult, there is excellent guides on Parktool.com, in fact I got back into cycling after a 'few' years layoff by building my first bike from a near bare frame. You just do one job at a time.

    Personally I wouldn't be buying new for that age of bike, I'd be buying good used stuff, that is how I've got my Carrera (Merida frame) of similar age to sub 10kg for less than £700 total spend (including the first build), link in my sig.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Its all down to the rider, having said that I personally think XT,STX, Deore would be a good £/lb choice. Worth shopping around, you could possibly get full XT groupset for a decent price.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Clearly it can't all be down to the rider as the same rider in the lighter (lighter weight, less draggy tyres etc etc) bike would beat himself on the heavier one.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.