Freewheel replacement

drumon

Hi

How difficult is it to replace a chain and 7 speed shimano freewheel on a ten yr old 21 speed mtb?

The chain has been skipping when climbing hills, leading me to suspect the chain is worn and likely the sprockets with it. Should I have to change the front chainrings also?

I've had my LBS measure the chain, and it shows some wear, but both my local shops are not taking bikes in for another two weeks as they are so busy.

Many thanks.

owenlars

I would get a new chain and a new cassette before I started mucking about with free wheels. Very easy to do provided you have a chain whip and a cassette tool.

It is much more likely to be a worn cassette than a knackered freewheel/free hub.

It is also not that likely that you will need a new chainring. These are tolerant to wear as there is a lot more of the chain in contact with the chainring then there is with a cassette and hence less likelihood of slippage.

supersonic

Is it a freewheel (block) or freehub with cassette?

redvee

A ten year fold freewheel is going to take some shifting, unless you're built like Arnie it won't be easy.

drumon

Hi
Thanks for replies.
It's a freewheel, not cassette and freehub.

The Rookie

Freewheels used off road are prone to picking up muck between gears which lifts the chain off the teeth, worth looking at first!

supersonic

redvee wrote:

A ten year fold freewheel is going to take some shifting, unless you're built like Arnie it won't be easy.

Tool ion a vice, wheel as the lever ;-)

MichaelW

supersonic wrote:

redvee wrote:

A ten year fold freewheel is going to take some shifting, unless you're built like Arnie it won't be easy.

Tool ion a vice, wheel as the lever ;-)

easy.
Don't put the skewer back in place over the tool, you only need that for the wrench method of removal.
Clean and grease the threads.
With the new freewheel, use the tool by hand to reverse the thread till it clicks in place, then gently hand tighten. Pedalling will do the rest.

the_hundredth_idiot

supersonic wrote:

redvee wrote:

A ten year fold freewheel is going to take some shifting, unless you're built like Arnie it won't be easy.

Tool ion a vice, wheel as the lever ;-)

I've just been given a couple of kids' bikes (Specialized Hotrock 20 inch) which need a bit of cleaning up - probably about 5 years old and fairly well used.

I've got the freewheel off one (so that I can clean out and regrease the wheel hubs) using the tool in vice approach but can't for the life of me get the second one off. So I've squirted it with a fair amount of WD40 and am leaving it for a few days before having another go.

I have a similar issue with the bottom bracket - one cup is absolutely solid (perhaps not helped by me initially forgetting it unscrews the other way ... ) and I just end up moving the bench the vice is clamped to using the old tool in the vice and frame as a lever approach. Again, will squirt it with WD40 and leave for a bit.

supersonic

Try PlusGas:

http://www.toolandfix.com/plus-gas-lubr ... tAodJD0Atw

Also tapping the tool (well wrench on the tool!) with a hammer can supply a high peak torque that can break down siezed parts.

redvee

The Hundredth Idiot wrote:

I have a similar issue with the bottom bracket - one cup is absolutely solid (perhaps not helped by me initially forgetting it unscrews the other way ... ) and I just end up moving the bench the vice is clamped to using the old tool in the vice and frame as a lever approach. Again, will squirt it with WD40 and leave for a bit.

Is the fixed cup, drive-side, the reluctant one? One method is a large bolt through the cup and tighten a nut on the bolt and keep tightening.