Seized Hollowtech II BB removal?
Well, I fear the end may be getting closer for my Genesis Vapour bad weather bike.
I noticed when changing the chain at the weekend that there was a lot of play in the cranks due to BB bearing wear so I ordered some replacement Hollowtech II bearings and a removal tool (one which completely covers the bearing for maximum purchase).
Tonight I tried to change the bearings. One of them (non drive side) came off with difficulty, but the drive side bearing is totally stuck. Even when resorting to brute force and smacking the end of the removal tool with a hammer has not budged it at all and all I have done is started to round the indentations on the bearing, making removal even more tough.
I also noticed on the bearing that I could remove that the threads were not greased so after 4 winters of riding, the other thread is probably completely seized.
Does anyone have any tips on how to remove a seized bearing? I don't really want to apply heat as the paint will be stripped from the frame.
The LBS option is a last resort, as with labour of CHF150 per hour, I'm not keen to pay the hefty price it will cost to pay them to fit the new bearings.
I noticed when changing the chain at the weekend that there was a lot of play in the cranks due to BB bearing wear so I ordered some replacement Hollowtech II bearings and a removal tool (one which completely covers the bearing for maximum purchase).
Tonight I tried to change the bearings. One of them (non drive side) came off with difficulty, but the drive side bearing is totally stuck. Even when resorting to brute force and smacking the end of the removal tool with a hammer has not budged it at all and all I have done is started to round the indentations on the bearing, making removal even more tough.
I also noticed on the bearing that I could remove that the threads were not greased so after 4 winters of riding, the other thread is probably completely seized.
Does anyone have any tips on how to remove a seized bearing? I don't really want to apply heat as the paint will be stripped from the frame.
The LBS option is a last resort, as with labour of CHF150 per hour, I'm not keen to pay the hefty price it will cost to pay them to fit the new bearings.
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Comments
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First thing I'd try is to lay it on it's side so the "open" end of the BB shell is facing up. Then pour penetrating fluid (Plusgas or similar not WD40 or GT85) down inside it so that it gets onto the stuck threads. Keep applying this over the course of a couple of days. Then try again.0
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You are undoing it the right way aren't you? The two sides will most likely have opposite threads.***** Pro Tour Pundit Champion 2020, 2018, 2017 & 2011 *****0
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And if you are undoing it the right way (which is very likely as it's marked on the cups), sometimes tightening it can break it free.0
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Yeah, definitely undoing the right way. I'll grab some penetrating oil and see how that goes. Failing that, I'll put the a piece of scaffold pipe on the end of the removal tool, clamp the tool onto the bearing so it doesn't jump off and then let rip.
If that then tears the frame to pieces then it'll be a good excuse to buy a disc braked bad weather bike!0 -
I've had to give the BB tool a smack with a wooden mallet before, carbon fibre frame with a HTII BB stuck solid and I winced as I did it.0
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I was hammering away for a good 5 minutes and nada, no movement at all. The frame will probably crack somewhere after absorbing all that abuse.0
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Tool in big vice. Its hollow so a bolt through and through the frame with big "washers" will stop it falling off. Just have a mil of slack .Frame held horizontally gives big leverage. The slack you left will allow maybe 1/8th turn which means it is free. Keep slackening it off as you undo it.0
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I had a similar problem a few years ago, the indentations rounded off and were useless. I borrowed a 3' pipe wrench and the BB unscrewed very easily.0
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Thanks to all, some useful ideas.
Because I needed to ride to work, I reassembled the the chainset with a new NDS bearing and there is no play now. So I think, rather than risk damaging the bike, I'll wait until it is absolutely necessary and the seized bearing is completely shot before attempting to remove it. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Who knows, I might get another 5k miles out of the thing.0 -
This is one of my major gripes with bike manufacturers, why do they never grease any of the threads?!
If you have (or can access) a workbench vice, then you can just clamp the bearing cup in there and use the frame as a lever to unscrew it. That should shift even the most seized bearings with minimal risk of damaging the frame, much better than hammering away at a tool attached to it.
When you put the new ones in, stick some Park Tools Anti Seize Compound (ASC-1) on the threads, it's absolutely fantastic.0 -
I use copperslip anti-seize paste on BB threads and pedal axles. Even if it's a new bike I'll dismantle / reassemble these to apply.
Seems like a faff at the time but it's well worth it when you come to remove them after several winters riding.0 -
mattsccm wrote:Tool in big vice. Its hollow so a bolt through and through the frame with big "washers" will stop it falling off. Just have a mil of slack .Frame held horizontally gives big leverage. The slack you left will allow maybe 1/8th turn which means it is free. Keep slackening it off as you undo it.
Along this line you could clamp the BB shell itself tightly into the vice and try turning the frame. No tool needed.0 -
Pay £15 and get a 24 inch breaker bar to undo it job done! That's what I did anyway.0
