Gears on hills

aaronspeight

Hi all,

I'm still a bit of novice when it comes to cycling but after being on a fair few rides recently I seem to really struggle when a road goes above the 10% gradient mark i just seem to run out of gears, now i admit i'm not the fittest but i still think i should do better, i have a 50/34 chainset - is there a better one to buy??

Thanks
A

aaronspeight

and my cassette is 12-25

fat_cat

You could change the cassette on the back to a 12-28 or even a 12-30 which will help.

Above 10% is hard work for most people so it depends how much you are struggling.

aaronspeight

im not stopping (just) but its just annoying when i think i could be doing better

Mikey23

34/25 is hard for a relative newcomer at 10%

Did a fair bit of this myself today on cornish roads. I would struggle without my 28

fatdaz

If you're not stopping and you're not yet planning to do tougher climbs why not stick with your 34-25. It will be easier to get a good cadence with 34-28 or 34-30 and will be easier on your legs but doing those climbs with your 25 will certainly be building stamina in your legs. Mind you, in the interest of full disclosure, I run 34-28

dennisn

I cast my vote for getting as big a gear as your rear "D" can handle. Doesn't mean you have to use it, but they do come in very handy every once in a while.

dj58

Have you waded through this post, lots of useful info:

viewtopic.php?f=40020&t=12583566

However as already suggested the simplest change to make is to swop your 12/25 cassette for a 12/27, 12/28 or 12/30 if your RD has the capacity, and see how you get on.

Schoie81

I've had a road bike for nearly a year now and I run a 50/34 with 11-28 on the back and I find anything over 10% tough in bottom gear so don't be too hard on yourself if you're finding it hard with 34-25. As others say, its up to you whether you stick at it with those gears and get stronger/fitter, or swap to something a little lower to make it a little easier on the legs/knees. Personally, I don't think I'd be happy dropping down to 25 for the hills of the Peak District.

drlodge

My advice is get the lowest geaar you can use. I run 34-29 and use it often on hills. Its really useful on steep climbs like Whitedown (18%) since I can just stay seated instead of having to stand. There is no point struggling.

philbar72

drlodge wrote:

My advice is get the lowest geaar you can use. I run 34-29 and use it often on hills. Its really useful on steep climbs like Whitedown (18%) since I can just stay seated instead of having to stand. There is no point struggling.

quoted for truth.

i run a mid compact and know i can get up whitedown on a 36x25 but seated and 36x28 is a lot easier. seated is absolutely the best way with those kind of climbs, and spin if you can in the tiniest gear!

markhewitt1978

I'm surprised road bikes are even still sold with 25.

Dippydog2

I use 34/34 or 34/32. That's what I need on my rides to spin at my comfortable cadence which is about 85.

The numbers are not important.

What is important is being able to comfortably spin YOUR legs on the hills YOU ride at YOUR comfortable cadence.

What other heroes can put up with is irrelevant.

dennisn

markhewitt1978 wrote:

I'm surprised road bikes are even still sold with 25.

Does seem like a sort of useless top cog. For either flats or hills. :?

Much like an 11 tooth is of no use other than to sit out there on the end of the cassette and sort of mock you for never using it.

dennisn

Dippydog2 wrote:

I use 34/34 or 34/32. That's what I need on my rides to spin at my comfortable cadence which is about 85.

The numbers are not important.

What is important is being able to comfortably spin YOUR legs on the hills YOU ride at YOUR comfortable cadence.

What other heroes can put up with is irrelevant.

You make a good point. I've climbed a fair share of mountains with friends who wouldn't use a 28 simply because they didn't want it to seem as if they weren't strong riders. And they struggled because of it, but would NEVER admit to it. You could easily see it in their faces though.

Mikey23

34/28 for me ... Aint no shame in that, i just spin more effectively at steeper gradients

drlodge

Mikey23 wrote:

34/28 for me ... Aint no shame in that, i just spin more effectively at steeper gradients

34/29 for me, it makes me faster up hills than 34/27

two_flat_tyres

drlodge wrote:

Mikey23 wrote:

34/28 for me ... Aint no shame in that, i just spin more effectively at steeper gradients

34/29 for me, it makes me faster up hills than 34/27

What cassete is supplied as a 29? I have only ever seen 28T, 30T or 32T

drlodge

Campagnolo 11 speed...

lesfirth

two_flat_tyres wrote:

drlodge wrote:

Mikey23 wrote:

34/28 for me ... Aint no shame in that, i just spin more effectively at steeper gradients

34/29 for me, it makes me faster up hills than 34/27

What cassete is supplied as a 29? I have only ever seen 28T, 30T or 32T

I run a miche 12 /29 cassette on campag . I have a triple front 28/39/50 front. I am a granddad so I am allowed a granny gear but the more I ride the less I need it. I also live north Manchester and seem to seek out the steepest longest hills I can find. The feeling I get at the top is beyond my limited vocabulary. How I got there is secondary. It is much better to have a lower gear that you do not need than to need one that you don't have.

two_flat_tyres

drlodge wrote:

Campagnolo 11 speed...

Cheers.

Would like to try a 29.

28 is just not enough for me on some climbs but 30 feels too much at times.

Never thought of a campag cassette, only sram and shimano.

dennisn

two_flat_tyres wrote:

drlodge wrote:

Campagnolo 11 speed...

Cheers.
Would like to try a 29.
28 is just not enough for me on some climbs but 30 feels too much at times.

You can always buy a 33 tooth front ring from TA Specialties for your compact chainset.
Every little bit counts.