CX/Training Gearing dilema - advice needed

Doodie

I have just built up a Crosslight Pro6 to use as a go-to bike. I have a FS MTB and a tri (ish) bike but decided that I wanted something to do local trails, training on&off road as well as some winter cx stuff (maybe the 3 peaks).

The problem is is that I am struggling with gearing choice as it is meant to be a do-it-all kind of bike and I know gears are not a do-it-all kind of thing.

At the moment it has a Shimano mix - Ultegra SS Rear, CX70 Front derailleur, CX50 chainset (36/46), 12-27 or close cassette and 105 shifters. I prefer SRAM shifters unless Di2.

I moved most of it over from a FiveT and on my 2nd blast over a favourite mixed route including trail, disused railway (cycleway) that's pretty muddy the rear mech (105) clogged at 20+ mph causing the hanger to rip, the mech to shatter and chain snap. The 105 was relatively new and all gears sorted so if this is indicative of clogging then may be the 3rd option below is my best bet.

I decided to try it out on part of the Pennine Bridleway last week to get up to the TdF at Buttertubs and some of the gearing wasn't low enough - probably due to my fat ar** - but nonetheless I would like more for hilly stuff (hoping to take it to the Alps too).

Which of the following would you do (or alternatives) and why {please don't just say train more and lose weight as I already know that part}:
1. change chainset for a compact and leave the rest - this means staying away from preferred SRAM for mechanical.
2. change the lot for SRAM, go WiFli and get compact with 11-32 rear.
3. wait another month and go for SRAM CX1 - 38T front and 11-32 rear then buy a 42T chainring for flatter days out.

Any ideas welcome

Doodie

crossed

Rather than the expense of CX1, why not look at something like an Absolute Black CX chainring on your current cranks.
Running either a 38t or 42t with an 11-32 cassette should give you a decent spread of gearing.

I've built my Pro6 up with an FSA chainset with the Absolute Black 42t thick/thin chainring. It's paired up with an 11-32 XT cassette on the back along with a SRAM X0 medium cage clutch mech. The shifters are SRAM Rival.

So far I've had no issues with it, the 42t does the job nicely down here in the Surrey Hills. I've got a 38t to go on the front when it gets wetter and muddier which should make it a bit easier.
I've also got a spare 11-36 XT cassette sitting in the garage which I'll probably try out at some point as well.

Monty Dog

How serious offroad? - if genuinely offroad then even a 34 chainring is too big. I'm up in Southern Scotland near Peebles on holiday and took my CX up into the hills yesterday and ascended 700m in 5 km and it was really hard going with a 24 chainring and 28 rear - some was path, loose scree and peat bog.

tgotb

Monty Dog wrote:

How serious offroad? - if genuinely offroad then even a 34 chainring is too big. I'm up in Southern Scotland near Peebles on holiday and took my CX up into the hills yesterday and ascended 700m in 5 km and it was really hard going with a 24 chainring and 28 rear - some was path, loose scree and peat bog.

That's a 23" gear; by the time you're that low, isn't it quicker to get off and run/walk?

devhads

Rather than the expense of CX1, why not look at something like an Absolute Black CX chainring on your current cranks.
Running either a 38t or 42t with an 11-32 cassette should give you a decent spread of gearing

That's exactly what I have, albeit a Race Face narrow wide chainring. 42t front and Ultegra 11 speed 11-32 on the back. I've got an Ultegra 6800 medium cage non-clutch mech and despite all the naysayers and dire warnings of having to put my chain back on every 10 minutes I've not had one drop yet. That's not been tested in really muddy conditions yet but some very bumpy bridleways. All the gears I need for training but may stick a 38 on for some of the hillier courses come the cross season.

Monty Dog

TGOTB wrote:

Monty Dog wrote:

How serious offroad? - if genuinely offroad then even a 34 chainring is too big. I'm up in Southern Scotland near Peebles on holiday and took my CX up into the hills yesterday and ascended 700m in 5 km and it was really hard going with a 24 chainring and 28 rear - some was path, loose scree and peat bog.

That's a 23" gear; by the time you're that low, isn't it quicker to get off and run/walk?

No, but it means I can stay seated and maintain rear wheel traction on loose and slippy stuff. I was overtaking MTBs on the climbs at Glentress and it made the climb up Minch Mhor at Innerleithin bearable. I'm in the Yorkshire Dales this week and rode up the road from Muker to Askrigg which is a lot tougher than Buttertubs along the road IMO. I can maintain a reasonable cadence rather than cranking it out too - I'm considering leaving one of my CX bikes set up like this for adventure riding.