Which connecting pin for XT?
lloydy123
Posts: 74
Which connecting pin do I need to join an XT HG 95 chain?
I have tried a 10 speed dura ace pin but it seems slighty too long and hence sits proud of the chain and not flush
I'm not keen on using a missing link as I already have a KMC link on the chain
I have tried a 10 speed dura ace pin but it seems slighty too long and hence sits proud of the chain and not flush
I'm not keen on using a missing link as I already have a KMC link on the chain
0
Comments
-
I always have 2 KMC links on my chain makes it easier to untangle it if you get chain suck and easier to shorten it if you bust your mech and need to singlespeed it home. The quicklinks are as strong as the chain so theres no worry you could have 5 links in and its still not going anywhere.Fig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap0
-
A missing link is a much better solution than the stupid pins Shimano use.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
Part number 08X 9801-1, listed as for a 7801 Dura Ace chain but used on MTB 10 speed too.0
-
mister p wrote:Part number 08X 9801-1, listed as for a 7801 Dura Ace chain but used on MTB 10 speed too.
Thanks for all the input.
That is the exact part number that I have used.
It appeared to sit proud of the chain by 1mm. I stopped driving it at the first click and the link moves freely.
Then I tried turned my chain tool through 180 degrees and pushed the pin back out to make it flush but now the link is far too open! See below. This makes me think that the connecting pins are not compatible.
0 -
No, they are just sh1t.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
It is compatable, it's not fitted right, but then they are, as CD, says, shite.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
-
The Rookie wrote:It is compatable, it's not fitted right, but then they are, as CD, says, shite.
I'm confident it was fitted right, just too long for the narrow chain. Think i'll just scrap it and buy another new chain, waste of money0 -
You either got the wrong one or you fitted it wrong.
The one you say you fitted was the correct one.
Make of that what you wish."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
The quicklinks are as strong as the chain so theres no worry you could have 5 links in and its still not going anywhere.
I disagree, I've broken several, which considering they make up 1% of a chain is disproportionate. More convenient than a joining pin though.I'm confident it was fitted right, just too long for the narrow chain
No, you just did it wrong. You can push it through the whole way if you want, there's no 'stop', you just pushed it right through the outer plate, so it wouldn't go back through with the flat end.0 -
-
You don't want it perfectly flush, it does protrude by a few thou. Perfectly flush is too far.0
-
Dura ace is definitely the one. We use them all the time no problems on 10spd MTB chains.A Flock of Birds
+ some other bikes.0 -
I assume you didn't read the instruction manual?
It was absolutely fine....before you pushed it back the other way. It's meant to protrude from the other side, now you've just ruined your chain.
Read the manual first: http://si.shimano.com/php/download.php? ... 07-ENG.pdf (Pages 42-43)0