Cycling in Sardinia in a Nutshell
Suntour
Posts: 11
1) I arrived from France via Marseille and Corsica. I got a ferry from Marseille to Propriano (Corsica). This docked at around 6:30am. After a nice but strenous mornings cycle I was in Bonifacio (southern tip of Corsica) by lunchtime. From Bonifacio, I got another ferry (1 hour, €19) to St Teresa Gallura (Sardinia).
2) Sardinia is not as expensive as some people think. As with any destination in the world, businesses set-up to cater soley to tourists charge tourist prices. Finding where the locals drink or eat was not too difficult. An expresso can be got for just €1 and a decent three-course meal for €14. A coke can be bought for €2. Go to the tourist bars / restaurants and these prices can be easily double.
3) Italian drivers are not as mad as some people like to make out. All of the drivers were courteous, drove past with a very safe margin. Even the main bus company Arst had drivers who showed much consideration for cyclists.
4) The roads unfortunately did not have a hard shoulder but the courteous drivers kind of compensated for this.
5) Most road signs on the island do not show distances - so have that cycle computer ready.
6) I used Michelin regional map "Sardegna". More than adequate.
7) Campsites were abundant on the coast. The ones which I vistied were of good / excellent standard. Most had good standard restaurants.
8) Whilst camping, mosquitos were not really a problem but a nuisance. I had not experienced them before in other Meditterean islands but here I did. If camping - bring some repellant.
9) According to the locals whom I spoke to - the tourist season is from May to the end of September. After that, most tourist facilities shut-down. You have been warned.
10) I was there in June - hotels were not that expensive averaging €50 -70 for a good 3-star modern hotel. Some hotel staff were open to a bit of friendly bargaining dropping some room rates from those published on their rate card. (The room rates for August were eye wateringly expensive however)
Overall, Sardinia did impress me. The beaches were wonderful - great after a few days on the saddle. The locals were all very friendly. The weather great. I was in the the NW corner. There the cycling was moderate - no really big vicious climbs - more gently undulating. The only big drawback was the lack of hard shoulder on most of the roads.
Otherwise, a very enjoyable trip.
2) Sardinia is not as expensive as some people think. As with any destination in the world, businesses set-up to cater soley to tourists charge tourist prices. Finding where the locals drink or eat was not too difficult. An expresso can be got for just €1 and a decent three-course meal for €14. A coke can be bought for €2. Go to the tourist bars / restaurants and these prices can be easily double.
3) Italian drivers are not as mad as some people like to make out. All of the drivers were courteous, drove past with a very safe margin. Even the main bus company Arst had drivers who showed much consideration for cyclists.
4) The roads unfortunately did not have a hard shoulder but the courteous drivers kind of compensated for this.
5) Most road signs on the island do not show distances - so have that cycle computer ready.
6) I used Michelin regional map "Sardegna". More than adequate.
7) Campsites were abundant on the coast. The ones which I vistied were of good / excellent standard. Most had good standard restaurants.
8) Whilst camping, mosquitos were not really a problem but a nuisance. I had not experienced them before in other Meditterean islands but here I did. If camping - bring some repellant.
9) According to the locals whom I spoke to - the tourist season is from May to the end of September. After that, most tourist facilities shut-down. You have been warned.
10) I was there in June - hotels were not that expensive averaging €50 -70 for a good 3-star modern hotel. Some hotel staff were open to a bit of friendly bargaining dropping some room rates from those published on their rate card. (The room rates for August were eye wateringly expensive however)
Overall, Sardinia did impress me. The beaches were wonderful - great after a few days on the saddle. The locals were all very friendly. The weather great. I was in the the NW corner. There the cycling was moderate - no really big vicious climbs - more gently undulating. The only big drawback was the lack of hard shoulder on most of the roads.
Otherwise, a very enjoyable trip.
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Comments
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And if you get the chance head into the mountains in the central east, beautiful. And if you see a sign for a "agritourismo", stay there. Simple bed, breakfast and evening meal accomodation. Usually all the food is from their own farm (figs, tomatos, meat, fruits, vegetables) and all the pasta home made. In the montainous region, most of the farms are self sufficient and offer "agritourismo" accomodation.0
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I agree with everything you say - although to be honest it seems a shame to skip Corsica - the west coast of Corsica must be on the list of rides to do at least once in your lifetime.
IME the only real way to keep mosquitoes away is socks, trousers and long sleeves in the late afternoon and early evening. They will always find the bits you missed when you put on the repellent.0 -
Stayed in agriturismos all over Tuscany - definitely the best option, they were all fantastic.0
