Nukeproof Mega AM Rear Shock Advice

Grisley Paul

Evening guys

I've just picked up a secondhand NP Mega AM and so far love it to bits, except the rear shock.

I'm 15 stone and even with around 250psi pumped into it, it sags too much and is generally too bouncy for my fat ass.

I down believe it's tired etc as it's not done much work, what are other people running at around the same weight on their full sussers ?

I see TF tuning have a huge range of replacements, what are good alternatives.... go coil etc ?

Cheers
Paul

cooldad

Can't you just add a bit more air?

Grisley Paul

cooldad wrote:

Can't you just add a bit more air?

Oops my typo, should read 250psi, and been up to 275psi...

mcnultycop

I run near max psi in my rear shock (Fox RP2 max psi is 300, not sure what shock you run), but I got a tune off Mojo. Before the tune even at high pressure it was too wallowy.

I'm 3 stone heavier than the OP though.

Grisley Paul

mcnultycop wrote:

I run near max psi in my rear shock (Fox RP2 max psi is 300, not sure what shock you run), but I got a tune off Mojo. Before the tune even at high pressure it was too wallowy.

I'm 3 stone heavier than the OP though.

Thanks for the info, the shock in question is a Monach Plus High Volume, think maybe coil is the way to go

poah

no, try putting volume reducers in the air can first. that will ramp up the compression and not make it blow through the travel so much.

rockmonkeysc

A friend who is a little heavier than you has the same bike with the same shock. He has tried all sorts of things including volume reducing spacers and couldn't get the Monarch Plus to work.
He swapped it for a Cane Creek DB Air (not climb switch) and all his problems are gone. He was advised against getting the climb switch by someone who has one.
I'm planning on replacing my Monarch with a Cane Creek DB Inline.

Grisley Paul

Thanks to the two above posts, just come back from a decent ride and after pumping it up to 275psi it doesn't seem ''too'' bad...

This being my first full susser I'm not that sure what things should be feeling like at the back but it doesn't bottom out riding singletrack but time will tell how it performs on rougher stuff.

I'm dropping weight all the time cycling daily so think I'll wait until I've shred most fat then see what my everyday weight is and work around that.

Been looking at the Cane Creek DB last night online and youtube vids, looks a nice bit of kit, let us know how you get on with it if you do go for one.

Cheers
Paul

rockmonkeysc

I already have a Cane Creek DB Coil on my Scalp and it is brilliant. Best shock I have used by a long way. It does really need an annual service to keep it working nicely, the oil goes off and it noticeably looses performance after around a year.

Grisley Paul

RockmonkeySC wrote:

I already have a Cane Creek DB Coil on my Scalp and it is brilliant. Best shock I have used by a long way. It does really need an annual service to keep it working nicely, the oil goes off and it noticeably looses performance after around a year.

Ok nice, are you planning to go DB coil again or air ?

rockmonkeysc

No I would go for a DB air inline for my Mega TR. It's supposed to be specifically designed for short travel but hard hitting bikes and the only review of it I read was based on a test on a Mega TR. They were very complimentary about it.
There's quite a weight difference between the coil and air shocks, even if you buy a ti spring (£100ish for a good one) the coil shock is still a lot heavier.

poah

RockmonkeySC wrote:

. He was advised against getting the climb switch by someone who has one.
I'm planning on replacing my Monarch with a Cane Creek DB Inline.

why not get the CS?

I'm thinking about doing the same thing too with my monarch plus 8)

rockmonkeysc

POAH wrote:

RockmonkeySC wrote:

. He was advised against getting the climb switch by someone who has one.
I'm planning on replacing my Monarch with a Cane Creek DB Inline.

why not get the CS?

I'm thinking about doing the same thing too with my monarch plus 8)

The person who advised me not to get the cs had one but had the cs internals removed to improve performance and reliability. He's an ex national champ enduro racer so a better rider than most so maybe an average rider wouldn't notice the issues he had.

poah

sounds like nonsense to me

oxocube1

Have you considered this mod? (scroll down halfway). A lot of people who are having the same issue as you have done this and it seems to work.

It reduces the volume in the can and allows you to get the same sag with less air pressure (just the same as a volume spacer but homemade). It will make the shock more progressive too so you shouldn't bottom out too easily. I've tried it myself and its very easy to do with the innertube and definitely does make a difference.

rockmonkeysc

There were problems with the early Cane Creek CS shocks damaging the piston rod. That was fixed on more recent ones apparently.
Some people don't like the CS because it's unadjustable pedal platform is a bit too stiff.
Those were the reasons I was advised against it.

Grisley Paul

oxocube1 wrote:

Have you considered this mod? (scroll down halfway). A lot of people who are having the same issue as you have done this and it seems to work.

It reduces the volume in the can and allows you to get the same sag with less air pressure (just the same as a volume spacer but homemade). It will make the shock more progressive too so you shouldn't bottom out too easily. I've tried it myself and its very easy to do with the innertube and definitely does make a difference.

Interesting, worth a go I guess, obviously you'll have to remove the bottom mounting bolt and swing the shock away ? they don't mention that but I'm guessing there's no other way to do it ?

On a slightly different note... is there anywhere to identify Rockshox serial numbers ?

I've got a rear shock with 44T 20077873 and a Lyrik with 18T30378216

cooldad

AFAIK the T means made in Taiwan, and the digit after that is the year - 2012 and 2013. After that is the serial no.
Not sure about the number is before the T, but I think it's the week.

Grisley Paul

cooldad wrote:

AFAIK the T means made in Taiwan, and the digit after that is the year - 2012 and 2013. After that is the serial no.
Not sure about the number is before the T, but I think it's the week.

Thanks very much for that, jeez, EVERYTHING these days is made in Taiwan

Except, Orange, Burgtec, hope etc

cooldad

All Orange hardtails frames are made in Taiwan. The crappy FS are made in a shed somewhere oop north.

oxocube1

Grisley Paul wrote:

Interesting, worth a go I guess, obviously you'll have to remove the bottom mounting bolt and swing the shock away ? they don't mention that but I'm guessing there's no other way to do it ?

Yea thats right, just the lower bolt. You don't even have to remove the shock from the bike. Very easy.

Grisley Paul

On a different note, states of tune....

I've got an L/L

Does low compression/ low rebound mean it compresses and rebounds LESS than say an H/H, i.e. It's a FiRMER shock or have I got the wrong end of the stick ?

sniper68

I'm about your weight and have the stock RS Monarch shock on my Mega.I take no notice of the recommended psi(as it's bollox) and put the right psi to get the sag I want.I have around 265psi and used in conjunction with the X-Fusion Vengeance fork it's one of the best set-ups I've had 8)

poah

Grisley Paul wrote:

On a different note, states of tune....

I've got an L/L

Does low compression/ low rebound mean it compresses and rebounds LESS than say an H/H, i.e. It's a FiRMER shock or have I got the wrong end of the stick ?

low means low so its not got as much rebound or compression damping as M/M or H/H

Grisley Paul

POAH wrote:

Grisley Paul wrote:

On a different note, states of tune....

I've got an L/L

Does low compression/ low rebound mean it compresses and rebounds LESS than say an H/H, i.e. It's a FiRMER shock or have I got the wrong end of the stick ?

low means low so its not got as much rebound or compression damping as M/M or H/H

Gotcha, so for any given shock length and travel a low will ultimately be bouncier than a high in terms damping ?