Saddle keeps slipping down
pinkteapot
Posts: 367
My seatpost won't stay up. I'm having to move it up again every 50 miles or so, because it slips down slightly and gradually when riding. The roads in my area are bumpy as hell, but surely the saddle should stay in position for longer?
The husband has tightened the nut as much as he possibly can, but it still happens. I use a goniometer and set it to a 30 degree knee angle, but within a week I'm back down at 45 degrees.
Is there anything I can do?
I'm on a Whyte hybrid, and it's still the stock saddle that came with the bike so no mixing of components.
How can I keep it up?
The husband has tightened the nut as much as he possibly can, but it still happens. I use a goniometer and set it to a 30 degree knee angle, but within a week I'm back down at 45 degrees.
Is there anything I can do?
I'm on a Whyte hybrid, and it's still the stock saddle that came with the bike so no mixing of components.
How can I keep it up?
0
Comments
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I had a similar problem but with the seat post that wouldn't hold the saddle level. Try some carbon paste after cleaning the area - its "gritty" so will increase the friction.WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
Find me on Strava0 -
This is my baby:
http://whyte.bike/2012/bike_page.php?ModNo=W-1-022-12
Aluminium frame and alloy seat-post, so no carbon. Just googled carbon paste and found this product:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/finish-line-fib ... -gel-50ml/
But assume it's only for carbon frames?0 -
I use the Tacx stuff(http://www.wiggle.co.uk/tacx-carbon-ass ... pound-80g/), but its all the same. It can be used on any material - my seat post and bars/stem are metal.
Would be worth giving the post and seat tube a good clean first, as any grease/oil etc will make it slippery.WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
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Excellent, thanks.
Had the bike for almost 18 months and I don't think the post and tube have ever had a clean. :oops: I'll get some grippy stuff and try it.
Cheers guys - would probably have ended up taking it in to the bike shop!0 -
Copper slip will also do the same job - anti seize and lovely and gritty.Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
Stupid question alert:
Are you all suggesting putting this on the seat post itself, or on the thread of the screw/nut bit of the clamp?
EDIT: reread properly and the stuff needs to go on the post.
Sorry, blonde moment! 0 -
Not sure a plumber would have copper slip, its used on the back of car brake pads. Copper pipes on the other hand...15mm or 22m?? ;-)WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
Find me on Strava0 -
Sorry, edited and removed that reply as I had a question. He does his own van repairs and has motorbikes so it was probably in that context he mentioned it.
Obviously I pay full attention...! 0 -
Also used on everything metal in the world that you don't want to seize up and doesn't rotate - seat bolt clamped, pedal threads, m/bike parts, etc etc.
One of the top 5 things in toolbox.Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
Are you using a quick release seat clamp?
Make sure you are actually tightening the quick release properly, and that the slot in the frame is aligned with the opening on the quick release.
If you are using a clamp with bolt, again, make sure the slot aligns with the opening in the clamp0 -
If the above doesn't work try changing the seat clamp. I suffered a slipping seat post on a couple of bikes and tried the above to no avail. One I tightened so much I eventually snapped the bolt. Bought new clamps and the post stayed put with very little pressure. The first one I bought was a Thompson clamp like this the other I bought was a lot cheaper and was one of these. I think they both also have quick release options.
Edit: Forgot to say check the diameter of your clamp. Probably stamped on the inside of the current one.0 -
It is a quick release, but we've done up the allen key nut on the opposite side to the lever as much as possible (sorry, I know I don't know any of the correct terms for parts!).
I don't want to replace the clamp if I can help it. It's got Union Jacks in it (as Whyte are British), in my bike colours.
It definitely didn't used to slip down as much. I've never cleaned the post/tube (in 1,700 miles) or applied the pastes mentioned here, so I'll definitely try that first.0 -
You can also get double clamps if the problem persists - try somewhere like Planet X as their On One bikes have Union Flag (it's not a Union Jack) bedecalled bits and bobs in stock.Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
You should not need to tighten the allen nut. Undo the quick release, wind the opposing nut up so the quick release is very firm to do up.0
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lapavoni10 wrote:You should not need to tighten the allen nut. Undo the quick release, wind the opposing nut up so the quick release is very firm to do up.
I think I meant opposing nut. If you stand behind the bike, the quick release lever is on one side, and then there's a nut on the other side of the clamp. But on mine that nut needs an allen key, not a spanner.
There's another allen-key one in the quick release lever (at the hinge-point), but the hubby said we don't touch that.0 -
the quick release lever is what tightens it up fully.
Undo the lever, then tighten the allen bolt on the opposing side until its quite difficult to close the quick release.0
