Single chainring conversion???

Kinger5542
Kinger5542 Posts: 10
edited July 2014 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi,

Just a quick question about a conversion i am planning on doing to my Cube Reaction although i dont really have much knowledge or experience working on/fixing bikes at all.

I mainly ride trails, XC, commute and dabble in a bit of downhill.

Here is my bike:- http://www.cube.eu/uk/bikes/mtb-hardtai ... rey-white/

I am wanting to drop the small and large ring from the Shimano XT crank and buy a new 32/34t ring and keep the original 11-36 cassette. Reason is basically i never use the large or small rings at all and i like the look of the single ring up front.

My question really is, what kind of Chain tensioner, Chainguide-bashguard do i need bearing in mind it will have to be BB fit as the frame i have doesn't have a ISCG mount? (the BB is also press fit)

Also would i need to change the length of the chainring bolts?

Many thanks in advance :wink:

Matt

Comments

  • mcnultycop
    mcnultycop Posts: 2,143
    If you had a Shadow+, so a clutch, rear derailleur you could have just put a narrow wide chainring on with shorter bolts. You don't necessarily need a bash or complicated guide. You could just use the front mech as a guide, losing the front shifter and cable plus the two chainrings.
  • Kinger5542
    Kinger5542 Posts: 10
    I was going to sell the front deraileur, front brake/shifter (one unit) to recoupe a bit of money. Would need to buy an xt brake lever.

    would something like this work? http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mrp- ... -prod61255
  • Kinger5542
    Kinger5542 Posts: 10
    Also would i need a tensioner or just better off getting a new XT shadow+ deraileur?

    Thanks, Matt
  • Kinger5542
    Kinger5542 Posts: 10
    Well i just managed to successfully use google and manage to come across this beauty on this very forum http://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/artic ... ain-37451/

    exactly what i needed
  • felix.london
    felix.london Posts: 4,067
    start with just getting and insatlling the N/W chainring, you may find you don't need a clutch mech at all.

    If your "Dabble in a bit of downhill" actually means Downhill then you may find you need a chain device anyway or at least the top guide part
    "Why have that extra tooth if you're not using it?" - Brian Lopes

    Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build

    Trek Session 8
  • benpinnick
    benpinnick Posts: 4,148
    I would recommend that a top guide is better than a NW - so would save you on the ring and mech (Shadow+ if it was needed). Something like an ethirteen XCX will do a great job. NW is also fine, Shadow+ is good too, but ultimately none actually work (even in conjunction) as well as a top guide in my experience.
    A Flock of Birds
    + some other bikes.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I like using twin guide rings, it gives upper and lower guide elements, if you are running a bash anyway it's also a really lightweight solution.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Kinger5542
    Kinger5542 Posts: 10
    Thanks for the replys,

    Still deliberating as to what to do to be honest.
    I have narrowed it down to these:-
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shim ... -prod83162
    this
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/e-th ... -prod87845
    this
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/blac ... -prod81193
    and these
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/e-th ... -prod66378

    When i said 'dabble in downhill' i meant just to join trails together not full on downhill sections unless my 'man nav' lets me down.

    Also, as i will be getting rid of my front derailleur/shifter and i have a carbon frame with internally routed cables, will i need to plug the holes that the cable came out of to prevent ingress of dirt and what not? If so can anyone recommend something to do the job? Plugs or something similar?

    Thanks,

    Matt
  • FishFish
    FishFish Posts: 2,152
    Good on the steel bolts - check the chain ring - is it nw? It does help. Are you aware of the short/med/ long cage option on the rear mech and the clutch mech or type 2 mech issues. In the case of the SML choice - it is based on some calc which I've forgotten involving the number of teeth in the front and the rear. A clutch or type 2 mech means you can get away without a chain guide if you have an NW cog up front - worked for me. Maybe buy a second hand chain ring to start with - I started with 34 teeth and went up to 38 very quickly thus wasting money.
    ...take your pickelf on your holibobs.... :D

    jeez :roll:
  • FishFish
    FishFish Posts: 2,152
    BTW I bought one of these Hope Chain Guides - strange looking thing and does not work very well unless you have a bash outboard. You need to fit it on the seat tube over a bit of spare innertube - impossible to get it square on the chain. Expensive too!
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/hope ... lsrc=aw.ds
    ...take your pickelf on your holibobs.... :D

    jeez :roll:
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Get a narrow / wide ring and don't bother with the plus mech until you have to.....
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.