BB removal - any masher methods?

Matthewfalle
Matthewfalle Posts: 17,380
edited July 2014 in Workshop
Afternoon all

A quick question: I've just been given an old Ali frame in very bad condition (everything rusted/oxidised to buggery: as in necessary to grind off cranks, cut off quick releases, etc. in fact I have never worked on something so bad).

The frame and forks however, apart from being scratched are sound so I wouldn't mind stripping everything out (which I have managed to do) and keeping it tucked away in case it can help someone out in the future.

The one remaining thing I can't get out is the BB.

Using my trusty Shimano BB tool, I can't get purchase on the non drive side cup. It fits perfectly on the drive side but as we all know, NDS before DS.

I don't need the cups/BB afterwards.

Has anyone any experience/tips in getting stubborn shot NDS cups out? More than happy to mash it out so long as I don't mash the frame threads.

Hints/tips gratefully received.

Many thanks in advance

M.
Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
smithy21 wrote:

He's right you know.

Comments

  • me-109
    me-109 Posts: 1,915
    You could try a little heat. The alu frame will expand quicker than the BB and may release some of the stiction in the threads.
  • arlowood
    arlowood Posts: 2,561
    Get some Plus Gas and immerse the BB in it overnight or longer if you're not in too much of a hurry.

    Then I'd get or borrow a plumbers Stilson wrench and put some "wellie" into it

    http://www.amazon.co.uk/Toolzone-18-STI ... B001O5M1ZC

    Just remember that the NDS cup will be standard threaded (ie undo anticlockwise) whether it's a BSA or Italian threaded BB
  • Matthewfalle
    Matthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    Ciao

    Than you very much for that - heat has been applied to no success, penetrating fluid tried as well.

    Have also had a bit of lateral thinking and bolted on the bb tool (long bolt through 2 washers through bob tool bolted onto bb to hold it in).

    All superhuman 75kg of me then donned my size 9 Army combat boot (good enough to Afghan in so theoretically good enough to undo a bb - remember, heroes wear Haix) and stood on the 1/2 inch breaker bar and pulled down on the frame with all my might.

    Any difference? Bugger all.

    Any other ideas before I set fire to it (apart rom setting fire to the f'tard who let it all get in such a bad state in the first place)?

    Grazie

    M
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • lapavoni10
    lapavoni10 Posts: 146
    as an absolute last resort you could try a metal cutting blade in a jig saw and CAREFULLY cut through the cup until you reach the inside of the frame. Make another cut on the opposite side, the squeeze the cups away from the frame (ie using a vice)
  • Matthewfalle
    Matthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    Ciao

    Unfortunately old square taper bb so no can do (my bad for not being specific in the first place - apols)

    Thank you for input.

    M
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • lapavoni10
    lapavoni10 Posts: 146
    Ah right...sorry I thought you already had the drive side out...but now I see the whole thing is seized.
    Have you tried the vice method on the drive side? I have found that way a lot motre controlled
  • Matthewfalle
    Matthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    Have tried NDS then DS to no avail - will DS go before NDS?
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • lapavoni10
    lapavoni10 Posts: 146
    the drive side has flats on the cup? I would try that with a vice first. Lay the frame on its side in the vice with the cup held nice and tight, then use the frame as the lever
  • drlodge
    drlodge Posts: 4,826
    Leverage is what you need, if you have enough something will give :oops:
    WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
    Find me on Strava
  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    Shimano UN BB? As a bike shop mechanic, 'heavy tools' was the last resort - nip around to the local engineering shop and push it out on a fly-press or simply hit it hard with a 4lb club hammer with the BB shell supported by a stout piece of steel pipe. The ones with the plastic cups were notorious for getting stuck as the splines used to simply break away.
    If the BB is old style cup and cone with steel cups, then I have cut one out of a Cannondale frame using a tungsten carbide saw blade. Had to smash the spindle out first which collapsed one cup.
    More recently, removed a Truvativ Powerspline with a pair of 2ft Stilsons as someone had mangled the splines installing it.
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • Matthewfalle
    Matthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    Ciao

    Lapa: thank you for continued assistance - very much appreciated.

    Dr: will drive side go even if non drive side is stuck firm? For leverage I'm thing long breaker bar with scaffold pole on end.

    Monty: due to levels of frustration, smashing it to bits sounds like a good idea. C.2003 Shimano bb, so yup, am estimating UN BB square taper. Splines have broken away/about to break away on NDS.

    So. Frame on side, support bb surround, smack the square taper (ie part where the cranks screw in) with lump hammer? Is the theory that this central part will shear away the come out the other side?

    Grazie un oltra volta per l'assistenza!

    M
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • jermas
    jermas Posts: 484
    Try filling the bottom bracket shell with a good penetrant (ferrosol is v good). Also although it sounds counter-intuitive try tightening it first (with a whack) - it can sometimes crack the corrosion and allow it to be loosened.
  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    If the cup is plastic, save yourself a lot of hassle and minimise the risk of damage to your frame by using a club-hammer. We used to do this out of the sight of customers as they'd get a bit nervous when you'd take a club hammer to their pride and joy! You won't find this in the Shimano service manual...
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • Matthewfalle
    Matthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    Still not shifting despite 5lb lump hammer being wielded by a squaddie.

    If I can't get it shifted tomorrow am it's going to the charity ali recycling bin. It's a horrible colour anyway.

    Thanks again for all the posts - very much appreciated.

    M
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    If heat and plus gas have failed all the other methods require more time and you need to ask your self is it really worth it. I'd say it probably isn't.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • Matthewfalle
    Matthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    Cycleclinic has hit the nail on the head - I'm just doing it now out of intrigue and to store knowledge for the future!
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    Shame you cut the cranks off. As there are BB tools that screw into the BB axle allowing tool to not move and stay perpendicular to the axel. Then just undo it.

    Plastic NDS cup can easily be cut away. If steel then a die grinder can be used.

    But normally people playing at it make it worse to fix which is what you may have done.
    nicklouse wrote:
    Ok the BB is shot so that need to come out.

    it had been in for years and i had already split the cup on the non drive side.

    img0471y.jpg

    img0468oo.jpg

    great tool that screws into the BB axle as well

    img0467cr.jpg

    and out it comes.

    img0469k.jpg

    Lovely.
    img0470f.jpg

    so how to get the cup out as you can not use a BB tool.

    next post.
    nicklouse wrote:
    So how to remove a stuck BB cup.

    Insert a Hacksaw.

    img0472lk.jpg
    and make some cuts.

    img0473be.jpg
    img0474s.jpg

    and then knock the pieces of Pie out.

    img0475j.jpg

    then chase the threads out and clean the BB areaready for the new BB.

    Have fun.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • Matthewfalle
    Matthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    Now that's cool - very, very cool. Very good to see just of interest - thank you. It's exactly the same as I made earlier today using my bb extractor bolted onto the bb using bolt and washers into the square taper end, 32mm socket and big breaker bar on end of bb extractor/washers/bolt.

    As an aside, I had to cut the cranks off because they were so jeffed that all the threads that the crank removal tool goes into didn't exist any more so you couldn't do anything with them. 11 year old (at least) 105.
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    You would be surprised.

    And you don't say how you cut them off leaving what to work with.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • Matthewfalle
    Matthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    With an angle grinder leaving the square taper parts complete and intact and untouched (deft hand)

    If you had seen the state of it you wouldn't be surprised.......
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.