Poploc Woes

mattrixdesign2

Hmmm, my Reba RL Poploc is confusing me. On a MTB rarely used I am not too happy with it, but plan to resolve it my own cost/effort - from what a hear about Sram/Rockshox I am not going to get much support or help from them.

It started sticking some time ago, i.e. the lock-out could be engaged, but wouldn't disengage on release, if I manually turned the top of the fork it would release. So at the time I thought it must be a tight remote, poorly lubed cable and outer, dismantled them - reassembled, and no improvement.

So a bit of Googling and posts on here, suggest the return spring is to blame - makes sense. Even after reading threads and posts and I am still not 100% sure how to get to the return spring (either to clean, remove or replace it), and even if the return spring itself can be replaced? However after removing the cable and remote lock, I essentially had a dial, and it would stick in either the lock/unlocked position - fine.

A few months later, I get the MTB out (got a race in the week), give it a good clean, ride in this morning to check everything is fine, except the PopLoc won't stay in the lock out position! It keeps returning to the unlock position, and it seems there is a bit of tension in the spring!!!

So now really not sure what to do next, I could try the remote again, see if it will work - I can give it a going over tonight to see if there is any friction resistance in it, but it seemed to be alright last time I looked.

Or, could someone explain in very simple terms how I get to the the return spring to remove it, or point me to something clear, as I just can't work it out - or am afraid to mess with something I am not 100% sure of.

warpcow

Tbh, it sounds like the cable. If it's gotten a little damp on the rare occasions you use it and then just sat doing nothing for months at a time, or if it's slightly damp where you store the bike, then that sounds like the major culprit. Next on the list would be dirt under the topcap. Having opened moco units myself, I honestly can't see how the spring could be causing the issues you describe.

If you really do want to take it apart, this guide is pretty good (ignore the bits about oil leaks):

http://www.basquemtb.com/repair-leaking-pike-motion-control/

You might need to clamp the unit in a vice to remove the top, and if you do, wrap it in something soft so as not to damage it.

mattrixdesign2

My initial thouhgts were the cable, but changed the inner and outer, there was at the time some friction on the return spring, it would return, but not with force. Now it seems keen to return :roll: despite previously sticking in posistion without the cable!

I dont have any clamp etc, but will take a look, not keen to dismantle anything TBH, but at the same time not willing to pay over the odds for the fork to "fixed" with parts that don't need replacing.

The MTB does rarely get used, I have a Road bike and a CX bike for 95% of riding. Shame really, as I miss it, but its so much easier why I live just to ride road, or a bit of "soft"-roading.

jimothy78

The springs do get sticky, and the problem you describe is typical - not enough spring force to act against the poploc, but enough to return the dial with the cable etc removed.

The fix is very simple:

1. unscrew the damper module using a 24mm socket (no need to purge air or remove lowers - leave the rest intact).
2. pull and wiggle the damper to remove it from the fork (careful - it will drip oil)
3. clean it off, and carefully clamp the body of the damper in a vice
4. unscrew the top section, again using the 24mm socket, but this time in the reverse direction
5. the damper comes apart and the spring just comes out, then reassemble using the reverse process.
6. Good opportunity to replace the damping fluid at the same time, but if not, make sure you catch and return any spills or drips, otherwie you won't have enough.
7. Once reassembled, it will work just like a dial-controlled damper - if you want, you can replace the cable dial with a control knob.

mattrixdesign2

thanks for this, clear and concise!

If I can get to the spring to remove it, is it worth cleaning it and would it work, can I get that as a cheap replacement part? Still happy if I can just get rid of it, but just a thought.

1 - does this unscrew in a normal anti clockwise direction?
4 - therefore, does this unscrew in a clockwise/reverse thread direction?
6 - where is this fluid stored, can this just be caught using a small container, it is a small qty I am likely to catch/loose. If I am going to replace it, what do I need (i.e. a good product etc)

As above post I don't have a clamp, but my dad does, so I may be able to do the job at their house.

jimothy78

mattrixdesign2 wrote:

If I can get to the spring to remove it, is it worth cleaning it and would it work, can I get that as a cheap replacement part? Still happy if I can just get rid of it, but just a thought.

No idea, I'm afraid. to be honest, the problem seems to be so common that even a new spring might not cure the problem for long.

1 - does this unscrew in a normal anti clockwise direction?

Yes

4 - therefore, does this unscrew in a clockwise/reverse thread direction?

Yes

6 - where is this fluid stored, can this just be caught using a small container, it is a small qty I am likely to catch/loose.

Assuming you have a standard MoCo DNA damper, then the fluid sits in the upper fork leg, above a seal at the top of the damper rod. The damper assembly sits above this fluid, and as the fork is compressed, the seal moves upwards, pushing the fluid through the holes in the damper. As a result, if you keep the fork upright and remove the damper slowly and carefully, the majority of the fluid gets left in the fork - just a bit adheres to the damper. Leave the damper to sit in a small container for a bit and most the oil on it will run off and can then be poured back in.

If I am going to replace it, what do I need (i.e. a good product etc)

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Rockshox-11-431 ... ox+5wt+oil or something like it - check the relevant manual for your model and year of forks to find out the volume and weight of oil needed. The SRAM.com website has most recent manuals in pdf, plus an oil chart you can download.

As above post I don't have a clamp, but my dad does, so I may be able to do the job at their house.

you may find that you can get enough purchase by hand if you wrap the damper in a clean rag - just be careful not to slip with the socket/spanner or you could damage something.

mattrixdesign2

Thanks for all this - going to have a go.

Matt

YateleyChap

Might be worth reading this thread as well. You've got the explanation above for getting in to the damper spring in order to remove it, and then this thread has pics of the manual lockout bodge I came up with for my Reba RLs that suffered from the same problem.

viewtopic.php?f=10004&t=12971561

The Northern Monkey

Just unhook the internal spring and use the dial on the top of the fork to lock it out. You effectively get adjustable compression damping by doing this too.

Pop/push locks are more trouble than theyre worth.

rockmonkeysc

I have had two poplocks. Both went in the bin, they are rubbish. As northern monkey says, just remove the damper and unhook the spring with a small screwdriver. Takes a few minutes.

mattrixdesign2

All done! BIG thanks to Jimothy for explaining it in simple terms. Got a decent spanner, managed to get the inner section out without a vice, just a cloth, a good grip, and knowing about the reverse thread! Didnt have much (any!) oil to catch! Spring came out easily, and looking at it would be easy to replaced, but if its going to fail again why bother.

All back together, dial is fine, but added some double side foam to the rim of the dial, the put a .5mm wide cross section of road tube around it, to give it some grip with sweaty or wet hands.

In the process discovered the BB is wrecked, and the chain set is the only cheap part of the bike (rest XT). So my next post will be, going from 3x10, to 2x10 or even 1x10... hmmmm