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Shifting - Cables? Cassette?

birdie23birdie23 Posts: 457
edited July 2014 in Workshop
How often should you change gear cables?

I ride my bike in all weathers and it's been about 3500k+ miles since it had new cables.

The other weekend I broke a spoke on my rear wheel and when I changed to a spare wheel on the Monday I had all sorts of issues with my chain skipping. I re-indexed everything but I still have the occasional slip and the odd slow shift.

Is this due to the cassette (which is exactly the same), the cables or the wheel itself?

Also, I've occasionally had an issue where I go to change chainrings and the derailleur doesn't move. The way I've always fixed this is by disconnecting the cable and spraying everything in the area with water displacing spray and reconnecting. Is this actually a sign to change that cable?
2012 Cube Agree GTC

Posts

  • marcusjbmarcusjb Posts: 2,412
    Gear and brake inners I change once a year usually (late spring, early summer) - that's on a bike that gets used year around and does around 10000km each year. Outers - every 20000km or so (i.e. every two years - usually when I do my bar tape).

    Definitely investigate further if your derailleur doesn't move - it could well be a corroded inner cable that will snap, at the most inconvenient time possible!

    Set of new inners costs about £8 for all 4 cables - and will certainly shake up your shifting and braking if they are a bit tired. However, after 3500 miles, they should still be fine.
  • birdie23birdie23 Posts: 457
    I'll buy the cables and have a deep clean and investigation I think. If I don't use them it's only 12 quid sitting on the shelf until I do.
    2012 Cube Agree GTC
  • dinyulldinyull Posts: 2,962
    birdie23 wrote:
    The other weekend I broke a spoke on my rear wheel and when I changed to a spare wheel on the Monday I had all sorts of issues with my chain skipping. I re-indexed everything but I still have the occasional slip and the odd slow shift.

    Is this due to the cassette (which is exactly the same), the cables or the wheel itself?

    Does the spare wheel need a spacer for the cassette?

    I recently bought a new set of wheels which were for 10/11 speed - as I'm running 9 speed I needed a spacer.
  • birdie23birdie23 Posts: 457
    I wouldn't think so. Cassette is 10 speed but the wheel is a warranty replacement for a model they didn't make any more so don't have any paperwork!
    2012 Cube Agree GTC
  • Old_TimerOld_Timer Posts: 262
    I'd definitely go with the new cables, both inner cable and the housings. There were a few threads recently, about cables being frayed in the housing and hanging up, so that the shifting was either bad or non existent. Made me do another check on my cables, found several frayed spots on the front and the rear so its new cables for everything this week, the set was ordered Friday from my LBS and should be here tomorrow.

    This was with regular checks and cleaning of the cables when maintenance was pulled every week, too.
    Lets just got for a ride, the heck with all this stuff...
  • pirniepirnie Posts: 242
    Did you move the cassette over to the other wheels or is it a different cassette?

    If it's a different one it may be that the chain is too worn for the cassette causing the skipping.
  • birdie23birdie23 Posts: 457
    Same cassette.
    2012 Cube Agree GTC
  • pirniepirnie Posts: 242
    Ahh, sorry, guess that's not the issue then. Thought it was worth suggesting! Hope you get it sorted!
  • lapavoni10lapavoni10 Posts: 146
    With regards chain slipping, I would check the sprockets are seated properly and are correct way around (most cassettes the sprockets only fit one way, but there are some exceptions like Marchisio that can be reversed).
    Is the wheel dished correctly and sitting straight in the frame? It may be at an angle which will throw everything out.

    For the sticky mech, after using WD40 or whatever you use, also spray with a proper lubricant let it soak in for a while and wipe clean.
  • birdie23birdie23 Posts: 457
    Yeah, everything with the cassette and wheel is okay. It's going on the workstand tonight for a good clean.

    Another question... In-line adjusters. Necessary? I'll be honest and say that I set my front derailleur up without touching the in-line adjuster at all so presume they are more a personal preference thing? Hoping so as the ones currently on the bike are badly scuffed and I didn't order new ones with new cables.
    2012 Cube Agree GTC
  • arlowoodarlowood Posts: 2,380
    birdie23 wrote:
    Another question... In-line adjusters. Necessary? I'll be honest and say that I set my front derailleur up without touching the in-line adjuster at all so presume they are more a personal preference thing? Hoping so as the ones currently on the bike are badly scuffed and I didn't order new ones with new cables.

    Certainly unnecessary on the rear derailleur cable IMHO, as the barrel adjuster at the rear mech gives you all the scope for adjustment that you need. Slightly more argument for one on the front derailleur cable as there is no corresponding adjuster at the derailleur itself. However, like you, I have never found the need to fiddle with a barrel adjuster (in-line or downtube) once the front mech has been set up correctly.

    Have seen complaints also about the in-line adjusters causing more problems with frame rubbing and scuffing
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