This 'quick link' is not quick at all!

mikpem
mikpem Posts: 139
edited July 2014 in Workshop
I've been trying for 2 weeks now and have no idea how to get my KMC quicklink apart.

It was stiff to get on at first but went in eventually and then I realised I needed to remove it again.

Having got the chain on I then decided that I wanted to change to a single front chainring because A) I was having no end of trouble getting the front derailleur set up and B) I don't need 20 gears anyway. So now I have a single chainring with a front derailleur that I can't remove because it's locked on by the chain :/

Up to now I have tried:
The standard squeeze and push triangle
Wiggle and push
Wrap a bit of old gear cable through the links and tighten
and swearing... lots of swearing.

I even took the chain off of the OH's bike just to make sure that it wasn't just me doing it wrong so she has a nice sparkly clean chain now!

Comments

  • Escher303
    Escher303 Posts: 342
    http://www.ctc.org.uk/sites/default/fil ... 107050.pdf
  • drlodge
    drlodge Posts: 4,826
    The links are quick to get on, but difficult to get off. Unless you have the appropriate tool that is.
    WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
    Find me on Strava
  • mercia_man
    mercia_man Posts: 1,431
    drlodge wrote:
    The links are quick to get on, but difficult to get off. Unless you have the appropriate tool that is.

    Not difficult at all to get off if you use the CTC tool-free method mentioned above. It really is a doddle.
  • Bozman
    Bozman Posts: 2,518
    They seem to have got a little tougher over the last year, I used to just use my hands without an issue but I've had to buy the pliers to open the little 8uggers up now.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    mikpem wrote:
    I've been trying for 2 weeks now and have no idea how to get my KMC quicklink apart.

    It was stiff to get on at first but went in eventually and then I realised I needed to remove it again.

    Having got the chain on I then decided that I wanted to change to a single front chainring because A) I was having no end of trouble getting the front derailleur set up and B) I don't need 20 gears anyway. So now I have a single chainring with a front derailleur that I can't remove because it's locked on by the chain :/

    Up to now I have tried:
    The standard squeeze and push triangle
    Wiggle and push
    Wrap a bit of old gear cable through the links and tighten
    and swearing... lots of swearing.

    I even took the chain off of the OH's bike just to make sure that it wasn't just me doing it wrong so she has a nice sparkly clean chain now!
    Not all quick links are quick links.

    Many are one use only. Read the info on KMC web site.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • sandyballs
    sandyballs Posts: 577
    My SRAM single use powerlink is on about its 20th life now with no ill effects. Link above works really well but have bought the pliers for convenience.
  • hypster
    hypster Posts: 1,229
    Get a Wipperman Connex link. It's unique design means it comes apart without any tools or faff easily every time. I use them on all my chains on all my bikes whether I use a Connex chain or not.
  • smoggysteve
    smoggysteve Posts: 2,909
    Its called a quick link, not quick unlink.

    They can be a pain and messy. they are alot easier to remove if you take the tension off the chain where the link is.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    Sandyballs wrote:
    My SRAM single use powerlink is on about its 20th life now with no ill effects. Link above works really well but have bought the pliers for convenience.
    Yes and SRAM also make power locks. Single use.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • drlodge
    drlodge Posts: 4,826
    I've been using an 11sp KMC quicklink on my Rourke for 4000 miles now, changed the link when I changed the chain at around the 3000 mile mark and undid it quite a few times. I don't see why they are "single use only" other than to cover the manufacturer's ar$e.

    Got 10, 9 and 8 speed links on the other bikes, how I like all my bikes to be different :roll:
    WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
    Find me on Strava
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    I find the 8 and 9 speed ones easy to undo with just fingers and thumbs. The 10 speed re-usable ones seem a bit snugger (is that a word?) and I've bought myself a pair of the pliers to make things easier in the garage. I imagine the single use 10 speed ones are even harder?
  • desweller
    desweller Posts: 5,175
    Mercia Man wrote:
    drlodge wrote:
    The links are quick to get on, but difficult to get off. Unless you have the appropriate tool that is.

    Not difficult at all to get off if you use the CTC tool-free method mentioned above. It really is a doddle.

    Yep. It is my preferred method also. 100% reliable, takes seconds.
    - - - - - - - - - -
    On Strava.{/url}
  • drlodge
    drlodge Posts: 4,826
    DesWeller wrote:
    Mercia Man wrote:
    drlodge wrote:
    The links are quick to get on, but difficult to get off. Unless you have the appropriate tool that is.

    Not difficult at all to get off if you use the CTC tool-free method mentioned above. It really is a doddle.

    Yep. It is my preferred method also. 100% reliable, takes seconds.

    I can't get the 11sp link off with my hands, much easier with the tool!
    WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
    Find me on Strava
  • slowbike
    slowbike Posts: 8,498
    Yes the 10 speed links can be a bit tricky to undo.

    I use partly the triangle method, and whilst it's on the big ring, I rest a pair of pliers on the top - taking care to not rest it on the cheek of the QL and then tap (I mean tap - not whack) the pliers with a hammer.
  • DiscoBoy
    DiscoBoy Posts: 905
    I have one of these. It is magical :)


    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/bbb- ... -prod47439
    Red bikes are the fastest.
  • sungod
    sungod Posts: 16,556
    used umpteen (kmc 10-speed missing link) never needed to use a tool, they come apart very easily

    if you can't do it with fingers, you're doing it wrong
    my bike - faster than god's and twice as shiny
  • Secteur
    Secteur Posts: 1,971
    I have used KMC links for a few years, and have had some that come on-and-off with great ease, and other that have been an absolute PITA to get on and off - and there seems to be no clear reason why, other than they are so small and built with such tiny tolerances that 1/10th mm either way probably makes it either perfect or way too tight.

    The tight ones are a pain, as I do like to regularly (once a month) remove the chain to give it a "deep clean", so I have just invested in a Park Tools chain link tool to get them on and off more easily.

    Also, the KMC's are generally single-use, but I have used mine after many, many cycles of installation/removal with no noticeable problems or loosening etc.
  • styxd
    styxd Posts: 3,234
    The KMC ones wear in after a while. Initially they are tough to undo by hand, but after several hundred miles of cycling, they seem to loosen off and can be taken apart easily.
  • mattsccm
    mattsccm Posts: 409
    Never realised there was likely to be problem. Arthritis means I struggle with tops on new jars but KMC links are dead easy. Always easier to do them on the lower chainrun with the out pin going away from you to the inside and on the right.
    Cack handers may find the opposite
  • mikpem
    mikpem Posts: 139
    Cheers for all the suggestions, I found time to have another go this weekend. The CTC method isn't possible on a wide-narrow chainring because it wouldn't fit onto the teeth in the V-shape. I felt that I'd got it close last night but still couldn't quite get it to work, popped in to me LBS this morning to ask them, they grabbed a quicklink tool and popped it out in seconds. Seems a bit expensive for what is effectively a funny little pair of scissors at £10 but compared to the time wasted it's worth it!
  • desweller
    desweller Posts: 5,175
    mikpem wrote:
    Cheers for all the suggestions, I found time to have another go this weekend. The CTC method isn't possible on a wide-narrow chainring because it wouldn't fit onto the teeth in the V-shape.

    Glad that you got it sorted, but out of interest what does this bit mean?
    - - - - - - - - - -
    On Strava.{/url}
  • laurentian
    laurentian Posts: 2,389
    Escher303 wrote:
    http://www.ctc.org.uk/sites/default/files/file_member/201107050.pdf

    All that fiddling about with oily fingers and now this! Brilliant!!
    Wilier Izoard XP
  • drlodge
    drlodge Posts: 4,826
    laurentian wrote:
    Escher303 wrote:
    http://www.ctc.org.uk/sites/default/files/file_member/201107050.pdf

    All that fiddling about with oily fingers and now this! Brilliant!!

    Yeh great, just wack the link with a heavy tool or other instrument, it won't damage the chain a bit. :roll:

    For goodness sakes, just use the right tool for the job!
    WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
    Find me on Strava
  • desweller
    desweller Posts: 5,175
    drlodge wrote:
    laurentian wrote:
    Escher303 wrote:
    http://www.ctc.org.uk/sites/default/files/file_member/201107050.pdf

    All that fiddling about with oily fingers and now this! Brilliant!!

    Yeh great, just wack the link with a heavy tool or other instrument, it won't damage the chain a bit. :roll:

    For goodness sakes, just use the right tool for the job!

    You don't have to whale the tar out of it while screaming, 'Arnie!' you know. It just takes a gentle tap with a hammer and a pin punch. You won't hurt the chain.
    - - - - - - - - - -
    On Strava.{/url}
  • bernithebiker
    bernithebiker Posts: 4,148
    DesWeller wrote:
    drlodge wrote:
    laurentian wrote:
    Escher303 wrote:
    http://www.ctc.org.uk/sites/default/files/file_member/201107050.pdf

    All that fiddling about with oily fingers and now this! Brilliant!!

    Yeh great, just wack the link with a heavy tool or other instrument, it won't damage the chain a bit. :roll:

    For goodness sakes, just use the right tool for the job!

    You don't have to whale the tar out of it while screaming, 'Arnie!' you know. It just takes a gentle tap with a hammer and a pin punch. You won't hurt the chain.

    Yep, I use this method, and it works a treat. No issues. I use a light tack hammer, just needs a light tap.
  • mikpem
    mikpem Posts: 139
    DesWeller wrote:
    mikpem wrote:
    Cheers for all the suggestions, I found time to have another go this weekend. The CTC method isn't possible on a wide-narrow chainring because it wouldn't fit onto the teeth in the V-shape.

    Glad that you got it sorted, but out of interest what does this bit mean?

    I've changed the crankset from a double to a single chainring using a special chainring from raceface which has alternating wide and narrow teeth which fit between the different holes in the chain more snugly and are also longer.

    The idea of the design is to stop the chain coming off and prevents the need for a chain catcher so after a season's cyclocross on this bike I will be in a good position to let you know if it works by about February.

    Link: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/race ... prod109723

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