Specialized Rockhopper 2014 Upgrades

dazsowden
dazsowden Posts: 19
edited June 2014 in MTB workshop & tech
Guys, I've just picked up a Rockhopper 2014 model. On the first outing I've found the ride excellent, love the frame, but the crankset and forks are somewhat cheap and nasty. What should I be looking at as a mid range upgrade to the forks, but decent for the crankset. Its a 9 speed rear cassette if that helps?

Comments

  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    You bought the wrong bike if you want to change them straight away
  • dazsowden
    dazsowden Posts: 19
    maybe, but mainly for the money its a good bike. The frame is something you would find on a more expensive piece of kit. Typical Specialized, good frame, cheaper components.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Plenty of good frames with better bits, instead of paying for the brand.

    But make it easy - list or link the spec - no one memorises it.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

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    Parktools
  • dazsowden
    dazsowden Posts: 19
    Frame:
    Specialized A1 Premium Aluminium, Trail 29er Geometry, fully butted w/ tapered headtube, forged dropouts, replaceable alloy derailleur hanger
    Fork:
    SR Suntour XCM-LO 29", hydraulic damping w/ lockout, coil/MCU spring, 1-1/8" steel steerer, alloy disc only post-mount lower, 30mm stanchion, preload adj., 100mm travel (80mm size Small)
    Front Derailleur:
    Shimano Acera, 9-speed, 34.9 clamp, high-mount, bottom-swing
    Rear Derailleur:
    Shimano Alivio, 9-speed, SGS cage
    Number of Gears:
    27
    Shifters:
    Shimano Acera, 9-speed Rapidfire Plus, SL type w/ optical display
    Chainset:
    SR Suntour XCR, 9-speed, Octalink
    Chainrings:
    44/32/22T, steel
    Bottom Bracket:
    Shimano, Octalink spline, cartridge bearings, 73mm shell
    Cassette:
    Shimano, 9-speed, 11-34
    Chain:
    KMC X9
    Pedals:
    Composite platform, w/ reflectors, 9/16"
    Brakeset:
    Tektro HD-M330, hydraulic disc, dual piston, 180/160mm rotors
    Brake Levers:
    Tektro, hydraulic lever
    Handlebars:
    Specialized flat bar, double-butted 6061 alloy, 700mm wide, 10-degree backsweep, 4-degree upsweep, 31.8mm
    Stem:
    Specialized 3D forged alloy, 4-bolt clamp, 6-degree rise, 31.8mm
    Headset:
    1-1/8" w/ lower bearing reducer, Campy style, integrated full cartridge bearings
    Grips:
    Specialized Body Geometry XCT, Kraton w/ gel, closed end, 132mm, lock-on
    Rims:
    RH Disc 29", alloy double-wall, 26mm, pin joint, 32h
    Front Hub:
    Specialized disc, alloy, Hi Lo flange, RCC ball bearing system, steel axle, QR, 32h
    Rear Hub:
    Specialized disc, alloy, Hi Lo flange, RCC ball bearing system, steel axle, steel cassette body, QR, 32h
    Spokes:
    Stainless, 14g (2.0mm)
    Front Tyre:
    Specialized Ground Control Sport, 29×2.1″, wire bead, 60TPI
    Rear Tyre:
    Specialized Ground Control Sport, 29×2.1″, wire bead, 60TPI
    Tubes:
    Standard presta valve
    Saddle:
    Specialized Body Geometry Rockhopper, steel rails, 143mm
    Seatpost:
    Alloy, 2-bolt, micro-adjust, 12.5mm offset, 30.9mm
    Seat Binder:
    Forged alloy, 34.9mm, QR, nylon washer
  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    Some RS Sid World Cups and some XTR 970 cranks would work nice
  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    If you go for the cranks don't forget to get the frame faced
  • dazsowden
    dazsowden Posts: 19
    As a layman, why do you need to get the frame faced?
  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    Read Parktools. In short to ensure/make the frame bb shell sides parallel
  • dazsowden
    dazsowden Posts: 19
    Awesome, will get the local pros to sort it. Something like this
    http://www.parktool.com/product/bottom- ... -set-BTS-1
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    That's a shedload to spend on a new bike.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • dazsowden
    dazsowden Posts: 19
    I don't intend on changing it for a while
  • JBA
    JBA Posts: 2,852
    You bought the wrong bike if you want to change them straight away

    This ^^^^^.

    You should have bought the Comp or Evo. Changing the forks and chainset will cost more unless you get a decent 2nd hand deal.
    “Life has been unfaithful
    And it all promised so so much”

    Giant Trance 2 27.5 2016 ¦ Sonder Broken Road 2021¦ Giant Revolt Advanced 2 2019 ¦ Giant Toughtroad SLR 1 2019 ¦ Giant Anthem 3 2015 ¦ Specialized Myka Comp FSR 2009
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    dazsowden wrote:
    The frame is something you would find on a more expensive piece of kit.
    No, just no, the Rockhopper frame is pretty much the same as the older Carrera hardtail frames, even made in the same factory.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • kajjal
    kajjal Posts: 3,380
    You could sell your old forks to help pay for new ones.
  • felix.london
    felix.london Posts: 4,067
    Some RS Sid World Cups and some XTR 970 cranks would work nice

    :lol: certainly would as would a Revelation XX and full SRAM XX1 drivetrain.

    i.e budget would be good if you want some sensible ideas.
    "Why have that extra tooth if you're not using it?" - Brian Lopes

    Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build

    Trek Session 8