Annoying Click whilst pedalling - ideas?
On the right leg push down - usually at the 3 o'clock position (or there abouts) - most often one click, occasionally 2. Only happens under load. It occurs in both the big and small rings and any of the gears on the cassette.
I've checked the cranks, they're not hitting anything - or close to hitting anything.
I've tightened the chainring bolts (Ultegra 6700 compact crank)
I've had the BB replaced (thought the old one was shot and couldn't remove it - turns out it's not this
)
I've checked the rear wheel is seated properly.
I need to change the pedals - in case it's them.
It's not the shoes, it doesn't happen on the other bikes.
It's starting to really annoy me now .... What else?
TIA
I've checked the cranks, they're not hitting anything - or close to hitting anything.
I've tightened the chainring bolts (Ultegra 6700 compact crank)
I've had the BB replaced (thought the old one was shot and couldn't remove it - turns out it's not this
)I've checked the rear wheel is seated properly.
I need to change the pedals - in case it's them.
It's not the shoes, it doesn't happen on the other bikes.
It's starting to really annoy me now .... What else?
TIA
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Comments
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seatpost or saddle?my bike - faster than god's and twice as shiny0
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Loose cleat...?0
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Nah - doesn't happen on the other bikes - same shoes/cleats ... and this bike has the newest pedalsColinthecop wrote:Loose cleat...?0 -
chainring bolts loose
BB bearing worns
Pedal threads (may need grease/anti seize)
pedal axle play
These are the thing to check on top of cleats. Assume nothing.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
thecycleclinic wrote:chainring bolts loose
BB bearing worns
Pedal threads (may need grease/anti seize)
pedal axle play
These are the thing to check on top of cleats. Assume nothing.
Ta - I've done something about the top two - I may have over torqued the chainring bolts as I don't have an appropriate tool to check with - just an allen key type torq key.
BB - it's been replaced with a new Ultegra HT II - same click, so it's not that.
Didn't think of the pedal threads ...
I hope the axle isn't wrong as they're new(ish) pedals, but worth checking thanks
Ok ok ok - I'll check the cleats ...
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Could be head set too.0
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Not thought about headset ... hmm ... why would it only occur on the right leg power stroke? Didn't think I pulled on the bars much, but may be I do?0
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If you have metal bottle cages and a metal frame it could be them... I had this for ages and it was driving me mad! Took the cages off and silence!0
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Nah - carbon frame & plastic cages. I'm pretty certain it's in the pedal/crank combo.
I may just swap the pedals then crank for some others just to see if I'm looking in the right place - if I'm not then I can start looking at alternatives.
Amazing how something so simple can drive you crazy!0 -
My most recent annoying clicks -
Bars flexing in the stem clamp - faceplate bolts tightened with a torque wrench and still noisy! Most noticeable when pulling on the bars with each crank at the three o'clock position. I get two noises, one when pulling on the bars and another when I release the tension on the bars, both in quick succession.
I had a clicking with my right crank between the eleven and one o'clock position - turned out to be the front derailleur cable crimp touching the crank arm.0 -
May just check that then ...kwozzymodo wrote:My most recent annoying clicks -
Bars flexing in the stem clamp - faceplate bolts tightened with a torque wrench and still noisy! Most noticeable when pulling on the bars with each crank at the three o'clock position. I get two noises, one when pulling on the bars and another when I release the tension on the bars, both in quick succession.
It's definitely not that - had that before and it was one of the first things I checked - of course, it couldn't be the cable as the crank was at 3 oclock - not 11 ... but it wasn't the left crank either...kwozzymodo wrote:I had a clicking with my right crank between the eleven and one o'clock position - turned out to be the front derailleur cable crimp touching the crank arm.0 -
Eager to see any other suggestions on this as I have exactly the same issue with my Scott. We'll more of a tick or double tick on hard pedalling. I've replaced the chainset (needed to anyway), BB, greased bolts, seat post/rails front derailleur clamp, pedal threads, stem clamps, qr but it still does it!! Beginning to think I should just live with it before going insane! Think mine might be related to the frame as it sometimes ticks when bearing weight on it.0
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well - I've swapped the right side pedal for another one ... I'll see if it's that tomorrow ... probably not 0
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.... it's the pedal ... well - one part of it anyway - no clicks this morning (well, other than my normal creaks and groans)
Now i need to work out how to take the spindle out of an M540 ... shouldn't be too hard.... (famous last words!)0 -
I'm jealous! ha. Enjoy the silent bike. I tried cycling this morning without bottle cages but exactly the same, so will try the pedals later.0
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let us know if/what you found ... 0
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Slowbike wrote: .... it's the pedal ... well - one part of it anyway - no clicks this morning (well, other than my normal creaks and groans)
Now i need to work out how to take the spindle out of an M540 ... shouldn't be too hard.... (famous last words!)
Before you go replacing anything......... Just give the pedal threads a good clean then blob a load of grease on and then re attach to the crank. Just try it....!2020 Reilly Spectre - raw titanium
2020 Merida Reacto Disc Ltd - black on black
2015 CAAD8 105 - very green - stripped to turbo bike
2018 Planet X Exocet 2 - grey
The departed:
2017 Cervelo R3 DI2 - sold
Boardman CX Team - sold
Cannondale Synapse - broken
Cube Streamer - stolen
Boardman Road Comp - stolen0 -
different pedal no difference :-(
Mine is more of a tick in-tick out sound on every revolution but only when i put pressure on. Like up hills. I have noticed some bubbling and corrosion/oxidation on the alu frame under and around the FD, so took it off and put some grease on it then re-tightened, but still the same. Could this cause the frame to tick?
Occasionally it will tick once randomly if I stand on the cranks. Cant replicate this on the stand.
ps sorry to hijack the thread!0 -
IC. wrote:Slowbike wrote: .... it's the pedal ... well - one part of it anyway - no clicks this morning (well, other than my normal creaks and groans)
Now i need to work out how to take the spindle out of an M540 ... shouldn't be too hard.... (famous last words!)
Before you go replacing anything......... Just give the pedal threads a good clean then blob a load of grease on and then re attach to the crank. Just try it....!
It was a brand new pedal - no way was I replacing anything!! Just extracted the spindle, put some more grease in the bearings and put back together - need to try it now - but haven't had a suitable ride for it.0 -
chatlow wrote:different pedal no difference :-(
Mine is more of a tick in-tick out sound on every revolution but only when i put pressure on. Like up hills. I have noticed some bubbling and corrosion/oxidation on the alu frame under and around the FD, so took it off and put some grease on it then re-tightened, but still the same. Could this cause the frame to tick?
Occasionally it will tick once randomly if I stand on the cranks. Cant replicate this on the stand.
ps sorry to hijack the thread!
Hijack away - it's all yours!
Is the tick in the same position everytime? power stroke on which crank?0 -
No it ticks on either side only when power is applied. Tends to happen at the bottom the stroke but not always as ticked when stood level on both cranks this morning. I also heard the same tick once, as soon as I was stopped pedalling earlier :-/
Don't know if it's worth going grey over..0 -
The same tick eitherside discounts the pedal theory - although it could be possible, less likely.
The previous click I had was with the stem bolts to the handlebars - so worth checking if you haven't already.
BB replacement - if it's both sides in the same place I wouldn't think it was the BB.
You've replaced the chainset so it's not that ...0 -
Slowbike wrote:IC. wrote:Slowbike wrote: .... it's the pedal ... well - one part of it anyway - no clicks this morning (well, other than my normal creaks and groans)
Now i need to work out how to take the spindle out of an M540 ... shouldn't be too hard.... (famous last words!)
Before you go replacing anything......... Just give the pedal threads a good clean then blob a load of grease on and then re attach to the crank. Just try it....!
It was a brand new pedal - no way was I replacing anything!! Just extracted the spindle, put some more grease in the bearings and put back together - need to try it now - but haven't had a suitable ride for it.
I don't think it's the bearings that need greasing. I'm talking about the pedal threads, where it screws into the crank. Imagine getting a little sir trapped in that interface - hey presto one annoying click! Give the threads a clean then a good greasing then re-attached.2020 Reilly Spectre - raw titanium
2020 Merida Reacto Disc Ltd - black on black
2015 CAAD8 105 - very green - stripped to turbo bike
2018 Planet X Exocet 2 - grey
The departed:
2017 Cervelo R3 DI2 - sold
Boardman CX Team - sold
Cannondale Synapse - broken
Cube Streamer - stolen
Boardman Road Comp - stolen0 -
chatlow wrote:No it ticks on either side only when power is applied. Tends to happen at the bottom the stroke but not always as ticked when stood level on both cranks this morning. I also heard the same tick once, as soon as I was stopped pedalling earlier :-/
Don't know if it's worth going grey over..
Have you removed, greased and re-tightened the chainring bolts yet? Worth a try if you are able to re-produce it standing still on level cranks.2020 Reilly Spectre - raw titanium
2020 Merida Reacto Disc Ltd - black on black
2015 CAAD8 105 - very green - stripped to turbo bike
2018 Planet X Exocet 2 - grey
The departed:
2017 Cervelo R3 DI2 - sold
Boardman CX Team - sold
Cannondale Synapse - broken
Cube Streamer - stolen
Boardman Road Comp - stolen0 -
Did that too - Whenever I take apart I always clean, grease (if required - ie not brake pads!) and put back together.IC. wrote:I don't think it's the bearings that need greasing. I'm talking about the pedal threads, where it screws into the crank. Imagine getting a little sir trapped in that interface - hey presto one annoying click! Give the threads a clean then a good greasing then re-attached.0 -
IC. wrote:chatlow wrote:No it ticks on either side only when power is applied. Tends to happen at the bottom the stroke but not always as ticked when stood level on both cranks this morning. I also heard the same tick once, as soon as I was stopped pedalling earlier :-/
Don't know if it's worth going grey over..
Have you removed, greased and re-tightened the chainring bolts yet? Worth a try if you are able to re-produce it standing still on level cranks.
brand new chainset. noise was there before and after replacement. Also happens when out of seat and not holding the handlebars.. if that's another clue in the puzzle?0 -
managed to reproduce the tick, albeit quieter, if I hold the front brake and push down on either pedal just can't figure out where it's coming from. Also noticed that if i line up the left crank with the seat tube and pull them away from each other than squeeze towards again that there is movement of 1mm. Found this problem yesterday (was worse) and thought I'd fixed it by taking the crank arm off and re-tightening it but it's still not solid..0
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I think I have fixed it!!
Rear deraiileur hanger bolt. Actually, was the hanger on the other side. Was only able to remove one as the other bolt has rounded but a bit of copper slip and all sounds quiet, for now... 0 -
IC. wrote:Slowbike wrote:IC. wrote:Slowbike wrote: .... it's the pedal ... well - one part of it anyway - no clicks this morning (well, other than my normal creaks and groans)
Now i need to work out how to take the spindle out of an M540 ... shouldn't be too hard.... (famous last words!)
Before you go replacing anything......... Just give the pedal threads a good clean then blob a load of grease on and then re attach to the crank. Just try it....!
It was a brand new pedal - no way was I replacing anything!! Just extracted the spindle, put some more grease in the bearings and put back together - need to try it now - but haven't had a suitable ride for it.
I don't think it's the bearings that need greasing. I'm talking about the pedal threads, where it screws into the crank. Imagine getting a little sir trapped in that interface - hey presto one annoying click! Give the threads a clean then a good greasing then re-attached.
Well - eitherway, the click has gone from my pedal ... 0
