New to road biking please take a look and help me

dave2003trek
dave2003trek Posts: 257
edited June 2014 in Road beginners
Hello all,

I picked my bike up from halfrauds yesterday. I got a Carerra TDF, I plan on upgrading parts when needed. or when i can.

OK so i haven't been on a bike for about 3 years and prior to that i spent 10 years riding downhill bikes at competition level. So here i am just bought my bike i walk out of halfrauds after being told pretty much nothing. ''how i miss my old bike shop''

I start walking down the road looking at the thing thinking o my . i jump on top of it click the gears right down to the hardest one then have to quickly jump off before i come to a standstill. stand for about 10 minutes literally trying to figure out how to get the damn gears to change up... Oh found it that's a odd way i think to myself but i'm sure ill get used to it.

Ok so here goes 2nd attempt I jump on and spend about 1 mile of the road trying to get my feet into these cr*p cage pedals. I was warned about them before i bought the bike so i did buy some flat pedals until i go clipless. Well feet are now in and bloody hell its fast very different to my full sus bike. BUMP my god that hurt i went over a 2mm stone. Ok over exaggeration there but my lord you feel every pump.... I don't know if the cheap seat makes things worse.... BUT My bum does hurt today probably as i rode 6 miles on it after being out of the saddle for so many years.

i try standing up powering forward but i wobble like a jelly. Again feels very different to the MTB i'm used to.

I seem to be over reaching for the top of the bar instead of gripping it i felt i wanted to rest my hands on it.... Maybe its a positioning thing and i need to just lean over more again its all new to me.

I'm around 105KG and plan to get back to or lower then my 80 KG i used to be years ago. But hey at least I'm now trying to not be such a lump any more. I'm probably as fit as a 10year old corpse. My 6 miles was probably like your 30mile club ride.
questions now

Do i need more then 80psi in my tubes with being a little overweight.... i can run upto 120psi but they might explode if i try and sit on them at that PSI

If you had this bike what would be the first thing you would change? to make the ride better? maybe new wheels?
the wheels alone on this bike i think weigh 3.5 KG on the plus side there probably bomb proof and i guess a nice set of carbon wheels would disintegrate if i rode on them

Comments

  • kajjal
    kajjal Posts: 3,380
    Road bikes are not like mountain bikes and you need to avoid any rough stuff on the road. I am around 100kg and run my tyres at 105psi which works fine for me. You may want to put some cheap MTB flat pedals on as well to give you more stability until you get used to the bike.
  • dilatory
    dilatory Posts: 565
    I recently joined the world of the road bike. You get used to the bumps and the handling becomes fine after a few rides too. I wouldn't rush to upgrade anything. Just keep riding it and replace bits that fail. If you're bitten by the road bug you'll be looking at new bikes come next year probably. Some decent padded bib shorts will make your life better. Get rid of the cages and either ride flats until you feel comfortable or just dive in with clipless pedals.
  • tangled_metal
    tangled_metal Posts: 4,021
    Try higher psi. Thin tyres can take more and need more. I think because less rubber/ air cushion so needs to be harder to provide cushioning or summat like that. Basically I'd run at 100-120 on a thin 23c tyre. I'm 85kg but that won't matter that much I think. Consider getting a wider tyre, think your rims should take what 25, 28. 32 I think are possible options. Change seat perhaps. Heard something about carbon seat post.

    Will be a harder ride. Alu frame for you I think. Think carbon forks can help, or some like chromoly frame like old school, no help there.

    I've gone the other way with a hybrid with front suspension. I actually turn it off as doesn't make much difference to me on easy tracks. Used to take my road bike on tracks, towpaths without problems like you're getting on roads. As a kid took a "sports"bike over forest of Bowland off road but a couple of months commuting dodging unsuccessfully the many potholes my old road bike fell apart.

    Guess I'm saying it won't be as comfortable but you'll get used to it and can do small improvements to help yourself as well. First off pump tyres up. If it says 90 to 120 play with that range to get the best result but keep it at higher psi than off road bike.
  • littledove44
    littledove44 Posts: 871
    Get a proper bike fit. Quickly. Hopefully you have the right size bike and it can be set up to make sure your energy goes through the pedals and you do not waste it on hurting yourself.
    If they tell you the bike is the wrong size change it immediately. The words "duty of care" spring to mind.

    As someone who started around 110kg and is now somewhat less I can tell you that you need to loose weight and ride lots. It actually sounds too simple but both make a huge difference. Given my time agsin I would say that losing weight has the greater benefit, but one helps the other, so it's a win win.

    I targeted a loss of 2kg per month. No real biggie to start, and easier to maintain.

    The bumps do not get softer. You just stop worrying about them. In fact, when you ride a mountain bike again you will just think about how slow those stupid fat tyres are.
  • tangled_metal
    tangled_metal Posts: 4,021
    You'll get used to the bars. I went other way to flat bars recently and it took about 3 rides to suss it out. Miss drops as I believe offer more positions which on long rides it helps to shift hands and weight . I've also got issue with hand I broke and elbow & wrist. Problems so need to rotate part of bars I use on long rides. Perhaps I need bar ends on my flat bars. You can find ways to adjust the bars if they really don't work or fit. Are you bars, stem, etc right for you? Doubt Halfords fitted you well.
  • dave2003trek
    dave2003trek Posts: 257
    Thank you all for your replys Tangled Metal possibly a slighter shorter stem... but at a guess its just me trying to get used to it..

    As for bike fitting is that not a little over the top. I agree a bike must fit you but at my stage would they be any point in going to the 10th degree? i know my local bike shop charges a small fortune for this service.... if i could get it done cheaply then sure ill have it done
  • deimosjohnny
    deimosjohnny Posts: 135
    Assume that Hellfords put you in the right size of bike. As for bike fit plenty of videos out there you can get an idea of the position and with a little help someone can spot you to get a better setup, my wife did it for me i just told her what i wanted be shaped and positioned.

    I am from MTB and new to road like you 3 months in. Bumps - not going away, bum - need to get good pair of padded shorts my MTB did not cut it, drop bars - you get used to quickly enough.

    As you know off road is technical moreso around how you move on the bike to deal with cambers, jumps/drops and slopes etc. On a ride your never really in the one position so to speak. From my short time on the road and what i have read getting this position - bike fit - is very important as is pedalling in circles and developing a solid spinning technique.

    I am 100kg and looking to get down much the same as you my gut means I am not much on the drops of the bars. Hills are a killer in power to weight terms. The one thing that got me is the distances and speed of road compared to MTB. Once you have a couple of rides under your belt you will be cranking out the miles which would be a slog on the MTB.

    As for upgrading the bike wouldn't bother as you will get the bug and want to upgrade the whole thing. For us fatties we are not going to see much difference in wheels, tyres yes 25's maybe more comfortable, weight savings on the bike not gong to notice till we lose some lard and as for gears a well setup sora will do the same job as a 105.

    So my advice is just ride for a couple of weeks and get the bug. Add strava.com to the equation as you will see your results improve by tracking with your phone. Turn your 5 miles into 10miles into 15 miles into 20 miles you will have the bug. Invest in good clothing, shoes etc before you think about the bike again and then when time comes you will want a new the new bike and you can keep this one as a winter bike. I will probably try and pickup a decent bike when they dump the 2014 stock later this year beginning of next year. I had thought about upgrading my mekk poggio but will hold off and upgrade the whole setup when i can afford it but mainly when i can justify having a good bike - when i have shed the weight and can do the miles.
  • apreading
    apreading Posts: 4,535
    Ass hurting after first ride in years - just need time for your body to toughen up and get used to it - do this BEFORE changing anything like saddle as you may be wasting your time/money.

    I would immediately go out and get the widest tyres you can fit in the frame - 25mm or 28mm and run at lower pressures. On 23mm at your weight, I would suggest 100-105PSI. If you can get 25mm you can maybe run at 90-95PSI which makes a huge difference as the volume of the tyre is much more and the lower pressures gives you effectively some suspension. The tyres you get on a cheap bike are normally really bad too - something like GP4000S will be a huge upgrade and may be more puncture resistant than those on the bike at the moment.

    I would also consider an immediate upgrade of brake pads - again those on the bike are probably poor and you need all the help you can get trying to stop your weight - especially in the wet and especially if used to mountain bikes. Something like http://www.merlincycles.com/sram-by-swi ... 68078.html which made a huge difference on my son's bike.

    Try and adjust fit to suit - either by watching youtube or at a local bike shop.

    Apart from that, I wouldnt change anything until you have ridden lots more.
  • zx6man
    zx6man Posts: 1,092
    Thank you all for your replys Tangled Metal possibly a slighter shorter stem... but at a guess its just me trying to get used to it..

    As for bike fitting is that not a little over the top. I agree a bike must fit you but at my stage would they be any point in going to the 10th degree? i know my local bike shop charges a small fortune for this service.... if i could get it done cheaply then sure ill have it done

    First thing I did with my TDF was stem swap, was way too long to reach. Changed for a 90mm and its perfect. Follow a few you tube vids on how you should be setup on bike and you are good to go.
    Original tyres were horrible and swapped for some cinti ultrasports and was much comfier even with 23mm tyre.
    Commenting on the brakes I have found mine fine with no need for swapping as yet.
  • apreading
    apreading Posts: 4,535
    zx6man wrote:
    Commenting on the brakes I have found mine fine with no need for swapping as yet.

    Try with decent pads and you will realise how much better they could be though!

    I found this article which may be of interest: http://philsroadbikingblog.blogspot.co. ... eview.html
  • zx6man
    zx6man Posts: 1,092
    apreading wrote:
    zx6man wrote:
    Commenting on the brakes I have found mine fine with no need for swapping as yet.

    Try with decent pads and you will realise how much better they could be though!

    I found this article which may be of interest: http://philsroadbikingblog.blogspot.co. ... eview.html

    Fair point but brakes are fine to me :-) , I was 100KG when I started on the TDF and never had issues and brake fine from the hoods as well (also got tiny hands :lol: )

    Any more braking power on those stock tyres will overload them and you end up skidding everywhere. I would just upgrade the pads once they are worn.

    For info, I also got cheap a 2300 front mech and chainset to match the rest.
  • dave2003trek
    dave2003trek Posts: 257
    Thank you all once again for all the info you have given me. stupid halfords only put 60psi in the tyres not 80.... no wonder it felt odd..... riding on rims aint no fun lol.... i have pumped up to 100psi right now and feels so much more solid

    zx6man
    you say you swapped your stem..... i think ill look on youtube on some bike sizing vids and see if i can come to any conclusion if its to long....


    as for the tyres on the bike they feel really rubbish and cheap (I work with rubber for a living so i know enough about the stuff...,. sad i know. At the moment i dont want to spend like 40 pounds per tyre but what cheaper alternatives would you suggest.... I'm dead worried about changing an innertube on a road bike don't know why probably because ive never done it before and i imagine it being so much harder......... i have bought myself a self sealing jobby. I'll put it in when i get a flat. if it works then its a bonus if not then dont mind to much just wont use them again
  • apreading
    apreading Posts: 4,535
    You can get the GP4000S for £27.50 each here http://www.merlincycles.com/continental ... 44877.html

    It may seem alot but they are fantastic tyres - the reference point by which others are judged.

    If you want something cheaper but in 23mm then these are a super bargain: http://www.merlincycles.com/vittoria-ru ... 63561.html
  • The heavier you are, the higher you need the pressures! Not the other way round as mentioned in this thread.

    For confirmation, look at your car tyre pressures. It's always higher with higher weights.

    I run 25's and started at 110kgs, down to 100 now. Been running at 110 psi most of the time. Tried lower and higher and think this seems to be optimal.
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  • zx6man
    zx6man Posts: 1,092
    Thank you all once again for all the info you have given me. stupid halfords only put 60psi in the tyres not 80.... no wonder it felt odd..... riding on rims aint no fun lol.... i have pumped up to 100psi right now and feels so much more solid

    zx6man
    you say you swapped your stem..... i think ill look on youtube on some bike sizing vids and see if i can come to any conclusion if its to long....


    as for the tyres on the bike they feel really rubbish and cheap (I work with rubber for a living so i know enough about the stuff...,. sad i know. At the moment i dont want to spend like 40 pounds per tyre but what cheaper alternatives would you suggest.... I'm dead worried about changing an innertube on a road bike don't know why probably because ive never done it before and i imagine it being so much harder......... i have bought myself a self sealing jobby. I'll put it in when i get a flat. if it works then its a bonus if not then dont mind to much just wont use them again

    I just found on the standard stem I was riding an inch or so away from the proprer hand position n the hoods as it was more comfier for me. Swapped it and spot on then, notthing too scientific. I swapped for continetal ultrapsorts which I got for 20 quid a par at planet x and I found them much much better.
  • mrfpb
    mrfpb Posts: 4,569
    I swiched from flat bar hybrid to a cx bike two months ago. I also got serious wobbles the first time I got out of the saddle. The wobbles went away after two rides. I think it was a matter of getting used to a lighter bike and the different bars - narrower bars take slightly more effort to control, but the small differences are enough to make you feel out of control.
  • Schoie81
    Schoie81 Posts: 749
    apreading wrote:
    zx6man wrote:
    Commenting on the brakes I have found mine fine with no need for swapping as yet.

    Try with decent pads and you will realise how much better they could be though!

    I found this article which may be of interest: http://philsroadbikingblog.blogspot.co. ... eview.html

    Couldn't agree with this more - I thought the brakes that came on my bike were fine and was sceptical as to how there could be much difference to be had by upgrading....that is until I upgraded them, I have so much more confidence in my brakes now when i'm descending. But some better ones and if you don't feel they're any better you can always keep the to put on when the first lot wear out - but you'll probably end up binning the old ones - I did.
    "I look pretty young, but I'm just back-dated"
  • zx6man
    zx6man Posts: 1,092
    Schoie81 wrote:
    apreading wrote:
    zx6man wrote:
    Commenting on the brakes I have found mine fine with no need for swapping as yet.

    Try with decent pads and you will realise how much better they could be though!

    I found this article which may be of interest: http://philsroadbikingblog.blogspot.co. ... eview.html

    Couldn't agree with this more - I thought the brakes that came on my bike were fine and was sceptical as to how there could be much difference to be had by upgrading....that is until I upgraded them, I have so much more confidence in my brakes now when i'm descending. But some better ones and if you don't feel they're any better you can always keep the to put on when the first lot wear out - but you'll probably end up binning the old ones - I did.

    this is now going to cost me money...stop it :-) What did you upgrade to?