Rawing a frame

pesky_jones

I want to raw my 2009 ally blindside frame. Recovering from collarbone surgery and want something to do, plus it will look cool. Basically just need tips and advice, never done it before and know zilch. I've heard its laborious, is it laborious in terms of time( which I've got) or in terms of strength (which I don't have - collarbone).

bailsofhay

I stripped a ally hard tail a couple years ago with Nitromore, soft brass brushes and a lot of dremel work in the hard to reach places. It took forever with lots of elbow grease. It came out pretty well but might be really painful with the old collar bone being out of action. Considering it was a much more simple frame than yours I would say take it to get professionally stripped. I think all in all after paying for brushes and solvents it was barely cheaper than getting a bead blast and depending on the paint type Nitromores might not even be suitable for your frame.

Even though it came out well I will never try it again as it was such a messy pain in the backside. Some places will strip and powder coat for quite a reasonable fee.

pesky_jones

Hmm thanks, I kind of knew that would be the answer. I thought there might have been a small chance someone would tell me the paint just falls off haha. Oh well.

The Rookie

Different paints come off differently, yours may be easy or a right PITA!

welshkev

I tried to nitromors and old cove frame. it didn't work!! even the guy I took it to to strip in an acid bath had a right nightmare doing it!

as said above, could be easy, could be a royal PITA

The Rookie

One absolute must if using nitromors is to roughen the surface with some coarse paper first, the top lacquer coats don't come off so easily so you let the nitromors through to the paint underneath.
My kraken frame was a flexible polyester powdercoat and was an absolute Beatch to remove, my mate was stripping an aggressor at the same time which was regular paint and it just fell off.

bailsofhay

One absolute must if using nitromors is to roughen the surface with some coarse paper first, the top lacquer coats don't come off so easily so you let the nitromors through to the paint underneath.

Yeah I went through a whole can of Nirtomores before I learned that trick.

PerformingMonkey

Neighbour will commencing day two of stripping a BMX frame using nitromors tonight. Helped out last night. What a mess! He'd originally thought it was going to be a quick job.

He's playing around with this build on a minimal budget so only option was nitromors borrowed from a friend.

Giantmatt75

Let a pro do it mate , have tried before and honestly felt like smashing the frame up as I getting so fed up with it

pesky_jones

So the general consensus is send it to a pro? I suppose I could have a go at it, and if it's too much send it to a pro? What do you do after sanding (?) the first layer off? Use nitromers with a metal scourer?

bailsofhay

After sanding I used nitromores and scraped with bits of wood and plastic scrappers( which eventually melted) to get as much off as I could then used super fine steel wool to finish before polishing( took a few applications/ scrapping before this).
A soft brass brush gets in those hard to reach places but beware lots of brass brushes are just steel coated in brass which scratch alloy if given the chance.

pesky_jones

Think I'm going to give it a go.

It's 6000 series heat treated aluminium. Not sure if that's got any relevance.

What do you sand it with?

The Rookie

Sandpaper!

Use very coarse to get the paint moving (80 grit), then go to a finer one to get the last paint off the frame (300 grit) then use fine to polish out the scratches caused by that (2000 grit or more) then wire wool.

pesky_jones

Yeah I've got tons of sand paper, didn't know If I could just pick up any piece. Can you use a sander? Ha

So I use 80 grit, then 300 grit, then 2000 grit, then finally wire brush with nitromers? Possibly a small brass brush for the hard to get bits with nitromers

pesky_jones

Also, is this the right stuff?

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_790109_langId_-1_categoryId_165495

.blitz

Doubtful if the latest Nitromors will even touch the paint on your Transition. The old stuff was kind of aggressive to say the least but I understand the active ingredient has been removed for H&S reasons.

I used a whole can taking the paint off some BMX forks - and it was just paint not powder coated or lacquered - a painstaking process especially around the welds

Good luck

pesky_jones

Hmm it is a 2009, is that recent?

Is there not a better product I could use then?

.blitz

Apparently you'll need something with dichloromethane in it. You can buy stuff with dichloromethane in it for degreasing and adhesive removal but not for paint stripping. I believe Nitromors Varnish remover (brown tin) has it

Alternatively your nearest car paint shop will have some but technically it's banned for non-industrial use

pesky_jones

Ok, il try source some. Worst comes to worse il get it done proffesionally

pesky_jones

Ok, got some nitromores, unfortunately without dichloromethane, some fine sandpaper and a fine steel wool. Gna get cracking

pesky_jones

I'm going to get it blasted. I'm still not sure if it's painted or powder coated! I've been led to believe that

shot/bead blasting can damage aluminium.
Soda blasting won't damage it all, but ineffective to powder coated (if it is PC)
Fine honite is the best to use

Comments?

The Rookie

It depends on the powder coating, the flexible stuff will be taken off by soda blasting, the hard won't, talk to the stripper, I'd ask them to start with soda and only step up if it's not working. Get them to finish with Soda as it leaves a nice finish for you to polish up for the raw.

pesky_jones

I emailed the guy, I said I had concerns that bead blasting could damage it. He said that blasters have been known to be a little over zealous, and that they are not all tard with the same brush.

I'm not also convinced that it's powder coat.

The Rookie

Powder coat is obviously different to paint, be it hard or soft.... The soft stuff is easy to ID as you can indent it with your thumbnail and then it will slowly disappear as it springs back.

pippi_langsamer-2

I'd Google your local metal finishing companies and get a quote for shot blasting or whatever. I had an old road frame done at my ex-girlfriends place of work. Cost me a bottle of wine or two

Doing it yourself with a dodgy collar bone sounds like purgatory...

pesky_jones

Ha I think purgatory is exactly what it would be

danchandler

You want starchem synstrip, it's an industrial use only stripper that you should be able to get from a paint/spray suppliers. Failing that type it in to google, you can order it online. It's decent stuff, like the old clear nitromors

pesky_jones

So, update. I 've done it myself using nitromors and sand paper. Not too bad. Pretty much just got the front triangle left.

Now the paints off, what do I do to get the good finish?? What do I use? Here's a pic of the link I've done. There's a couple of green spots if nitromors for a few bits that got missed.



Tips for using nitromors are sand off the first coat with sandpaper, untill you see specs of aluminium. Apply THICK coat. Leave for two to three hours. I think time and thickness are key.

felix.london

wanting to strip my Rockhopper but think I'll find someone local to do it for me...unless you put up step by step instructions. Oh and all items required will need to be the French equivalents too...thanks

bailsofhay

ooh shiney, How long did that end up taking you? You got me thinking of doing my anthems rear triangle and rockers now. Not too hellish on the old collar bone I hope.

pesky_jones

No it hasn't been too bad to be honest. For each part I've had to apply two or three coats to get all the paint off, the link in the picture only took two but the seat stays took three coats. I be just got the front triangle left, but Il probably have to get another can. I've used nitromors in the green can, but apparently a product called starchem is available online and is much better, so that might be worth a shout.

Felix, Il put up pictures of the front triangle when I do it, not sure about the French translated products through! Ive paid 15 quid for the can, May have to get another one. I got quoted 75 quid by one bead blaster, and 25 quid by another, so it could be cheaper to get it done pro if you get a good price.

I've spent probably about three hours scraping the paint off, not including nitromors setting time.