Stages Power meter / Tarmac

Hi All,
More thinking aloud here,
I ordered a Stages FSA power meter back at the start of March for my newly purchased S-Works Tarmac. It was a custom build that I found in a shop. It came with 52/36 FSA Gossamer BB30 cranks + 105.
The power meter still isnt here and it doesn't sound like Evans have any idea when it will be.
It got me thinking, should I replace cranks and change my stages order? I fancy something a little lighter as the reported weight of these Gossamers 900g+. The build is around 7.7kg not heavy so it's not really a massive issue. any thoughts on what cranks I could go to?
More thinking aloud here,
I ordered a Stages FSA power meter back at the start of March for my newly purchased S-Works Tarmac. It was a custom build that I found in a shop. It came with 52/36 FSA Gossamer BB30 cranks + 105.
The power meter still isnt here and it doesn't sound like Evans have any idea when it will be.
It got me thinking, should I replace cranks and change my stages order? I fancy something a little lighter as the reported weight of these Gossamers 900g+. The build is around 7.7kg not heavy so it's not really a massive issue. any thoughts on what cranks I could go to?
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Posts
Stages can't seem to make enough, but you might be lucky with some of the bigger stores having a selection..
http://100hillsforgeorge.blogspot.com/
http://www.12on12in12.blogspot.co.uk/
Just I can pick up an ultegra crank set for £150 or so, so I was thinking go to that and swap my order (assuming they have those in stock).
will I have an issue with 11spd cranks and 10 speed groupo?
S-Works Tarmac SL4
Cannondale CAAD10 '15
Specialized Venge Di2
Nope...running 11sp crank with my 10sp Ultegra and everything seems fine..
I run Sram on all my bikes so swapping it is really easy - I could even ride with it on my fixed gear.
I've not used the Stages that much - but have done a few turbo sessions on one bike and put it on my Ritchey Breakaway for 4 days riding in Croatia in hilly/cold and wet conditions. Has been fine and given me good consistent info. Swapping and calibrating it is dead easy - remove left arm crank (could leave pedal on) and put on next bike. No messing with chainrings or removing crank arm. Almost as easy as a powertap wheel.
http://100hillsforgeorge.blogspot.com/
http://www.12on12in12.blogspot.co.uk/
After that, removint it is a bit like the stages, but as the power meter is on the drive side arm you have to take the whole thing out (so a little bit more messy/inconvenient?) Also assumes that you have the same crankset (ie compact or standard) on all your bikes too - for front derailleur height tolerances? Bit more expensive than stages too? Stages smaller and lighter?
But - does measure left/right power (although "estimates" at it), better availability? More accurate?
When I did my research, neither one really trumped the other, so I went for the cheapest option!
http://100hillsforgeorge.blogspot.com/
http://www.12on12in12.blogspot.co.uk/
I only use me PM on my TT bike as it's useless elsewhere, although I did put it on another bike last year when I was back in the US for a few weeks. Swapping and adjusting the front mech (Q Rings) took less than 5 minutes.
Sure it's abit more expensive, but once you take the cost of the chainset into account for Stages you're pretty much at the same price.
I think the water ingress problems must be sorted now on the Stages (touch wood) - rode it in some pretty wet weather and it was fine.
http://100hillsforgeorge.blogspot.com/
http://www.12on12in12.blogspot.co.uk/