Size of stem

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Comments

  • rockmonkeysc
    rockmonkeysc Posts: 14,774
    I don't understand the short seat tube thing. I never drop my saddle more than a few inches and most of my friends are the same. Most DH riders run a pretty high saddle these days as well, Steve Peat in particular runs a very high saddle even for someone of his height.
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Same here, if I do drop it (rarely) it isn't by much - I like the saddle and post against my legs or even stomach on some descents. I do have long legs mind, 35 inch inside legs. If it was all about as low as you could go, all DH riders would be riding with 100mm seatposts all the way in.
  • rockmonkeysc
    rockmonkeysc Posts: 14,774
    Downhill seat tubes seem to be getting longer. They used to be as short as possible but some large frames now have a 19" seat tube.
  • lawman
    lawman Posts: 6,868
    I'm not saying we should all go for super short seat tubes, but I do believe that for a given top tube lengths seat tubes should be shorter than than they currently are on many bikes IMO. I've not got hugely long legs but to get the kind of top tube length I'm after I'd be looking at most manufacturers XL frames, which when you factor in a 125mm dropper, pretty standard on most trail bikes these days, it's right on the limit. I had a quick browse earlier and just as an example Canyon increase the seat tube by 2" when you go up a size, and yet the top tube only increases by 1", which I find really odd, surely they should increase by the same amount or at least be slightly more even. Kona look to have got things right on the process IMO and the new Nomad is a definite step in the direction I'd be happy with. It's all very sizing up to get the length you want but when you compromise seat height because you're riding a bigger frame then IMO there's something wrong with the bikes geometry.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    You mean catching up with certain bike makes ;)
    Or slavishly following the mistake of certain bike makes?
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • rockmonkeysc
    rockmonkeysc Posts: 14,774
    lawman wrote:
    I'm not saying we should all go for super short seat tubes, but I do believe that for a given top tube lengths seat tubes should be shorter than than they currently are on many bikes IMO. I've not got hugely long legs but to get the kind of top tube length I'm after I'd be looking at most manufacturers XL frames, which when you factor in a 125mm dropper, pretty standard on most trail bikes these days, it's right on the limit. I had a quick browse earlier and just as an example Canyon increase the seat tube by 2" when you go up a size, and yet the top tube only increases by 1", which I find really odd, surely they should increase by the same amount or at least be slightly more even. Kona look to have got things right on the process IMO and the new Nomad is a definite step in the direction I'd be happy with. It's all very sizing up to get the length you want but when you compromise seat height because you're riding a bigger frame then IMO there's something wrong with the bikes geometry.

    No manufacturers are getting it right or wrong. There are lots of different shape frames for the lots of different shape riders.
    Some people (like me) need a long seat tube. I'm only 6'1" and I like a 20" seat tube, I can still use a 125mm reverb and I like a top tube between 610 and 625. That means I end up on an XL frame (6'1" is not extra large) and some people taller than me are starting to find their options very limited. Long seat posts are ok but they do tend to bend when you have a 400mm post on full extension.
    A good variety of geometries is a good thing. Not every bike will fit everyone but everyone can find a bike to fit.