Warranty Issue or nay?

buddy_club
buddy_club Posts: 935
edited May 2014 in MTB workshop & tech
Okay, basically my front middle chainring is worn and needs replacing as the new chain is skipping about wildly on it (the cassette was new as well). Unfortunately the middle ring wont fit over the spider to remove it so i have to take the crank off, but when coming to take the crank of using the crank puller tool (octalink btw), the tool will not screw all the way in and therefore when turning the rod that pushes the cranks away it is starting to strip the threads, i took it into my LBS where they had a slightly different tool and there verdict was this - Whenever it had originally been assembled in the factory, the crank had been put onto the bike and overtightened, meaning it is now impossible to remove the crank arms - ive had the bike since august and i was wondering if i took it to halfords would i be deserving of a replacement crankset (or if its truly buggered a new frame with a new crankset.....)?
Im going to post this in MTB General as well but just looking for advice on the actual removal of the crank.
Framebuilder
Handbuilt Steel 29er https://goo.gl/RYSbaa
Carbon Stumpjumper https://goo.gl/xJNFcv
Parkwood:http://goo.gl/Gf8xkL
Ribble Gran Fondo https://goo.gl/ZpTFXz
Triban:http://goo.gl/v63FBB

Comments

  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Almost impossible to do Octalink up too tight....either the threads in the crank where damaged (they aren't used during fitting) or you damaged them and now there isn't enough left, I'd take it to Halfords and see what they say.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • buddy_club
    buddy_club Posts: 935
    The Rookie wrote:
    Almost impossible to do Octalink up too tight....either the threads in the crank where damaged (they aren't used during fitting) or you damaged them and now there isn't enough left, I'd take it to Halfords and see what they say.
    Cheers, just have to see whats happening, i didn't actually cause damage to it, just the LBS was worried about starting to strip the threads - i have just been wondering why the tool wouldnt have fitted.
    Framebuilder
    Handbuilt Steel 29er https://goo.gl/RYSbaa
    Carbon Stumpjumper https://goo.gl/xJNFcv
    Parkwood:http://goo.gl/Gf8xkL
    Ribble Gran Fondo https://goo.gl/ZpTFXz
    Triban:http://goo.gl/v63FBB
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    buddy_club wrote:
    Im going to post this in MTB General as well but just looking for advice on the actual removal of the crank.
    Read the rules.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    buddy_club wrote:
    Okay, basically my front middle chainring is worn and needs replacing as the new chain is skipping about wildly on it (the cassette was new as well). Unfortunately the middle ring wont fit over the spider to remove it so i have to take the crank off, but when coming to take the crank of using the crank puller tool (octalink btw), the tool will not screw all the way in and therefore when turning the rod that pushes the cranks away it is starting to strip the threads, i took it into my LBS where they had a slightly different tool and there verdict was this - Whenever it had originally been assembled in the factory, the crank had been put onto the bike and overtightened, meaning it is now impossible to remove the crank arms - ive had the bike since august and i was wondering if i took it to halfords would i be deserving of a replacement crankset (or if its truly buggered a new frame with a new crankset.....)?
    Im going to post this in MTB General as well but just looking for advice on the actual removal of the crank.

    Sorry it sounds like you have damaged the crank.

    They are never ever tightened to tight to remove.

    They are usually impossible to remove after someone has used poor tools or incorrect tools and caused damage.

    So to answer your question

    Nay.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • buddy_club
    buddy_club Posts: 935
    Darn - sorry nicklouise, halfords have said that they're on a try and sort it and contact me on Thursday if not but I was thinking nay as well ;).
    Framebuilder
    Handbuilt Steel 29er https://goo.gl/RYSbaa
    Carbon Stumpjumper https://goo.gl/xJNFcv
    Parkwood:http://goo.gl/Gf8xkL
    Ribble Gran Fondo https://goo.gl/ZpTFXz
    Triban:http://goo.gl/v63FBB
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    buddy_club wrote:
    the tool will not screw all the way in and therefore when turning the rod that pushes the cranks away it is starting to strip the threads,
    Here is the clue, you must screw it all the way in to get the engagement you need, if you can't then fix that before you strip the thread in the crank, frequently you'll get mud and other debris in there you need to clean out.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.