Tightening gear cable - workshop retard

Wily-Quixote
Wily-Quixote Posts: 269
edited May 2014 in MTB workshop & tech
yes I am a workshop retard...

I am about to attempt to change a gear cable (in fact install new shifters). I am comfortable with the process EXCEPT: last time that I tried adjusting my gears I couldn't pull the tension on the gear cable. I can pull the cable with pliers with no issue but I can't get enough leverage on the pinch bolt to tighten it; there's nothing to lever against. Do I need a helper to pull tensionwhilst i push the pinch bolt and tighten it?

Comments

  • kwozzymodo
    kwozzymodo Posts: 45
    You could try screwing the barrel adjuster on the derailleur right in, and any other adjuster you have between lever and derailleur. Then, once you've installed the cable, undo the adjuster(s) to add tension.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I always start with the barrel adjuster one turn out from full in for the occasional time I need to slacken the cable.

    Pull the cable tight and 'nip' the retaining bolt up, that will be enough to hold it so you can let go of the cable and hold the mech while you then fully tighten the bolt. Make sure the chain is on the smallest cog, the low stop adjusted so the mech is underneath it and inline and the shifter in the right position before you do this!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • rubez
    rubez Posts: 323
    Expert here. Just done this yesterday. This was my BIG mistake - thinking you had to pull the gears cable very tight, but in fact that was why I think I couldn't get into certain gears.

    I bought a stupid extra hand tool for this, but it is 100% useless.

    You can pull the wire with your hand through and tighten up the bolt... and not even particularly tight - that's all you need, too much tension is bad. Forget pliers... just keep any barrell adjusts screwed all the way in beforehand.

    Very handy article. Explains it 100 times clearer than Parktools, which is unnecessarily convoluted... that has you yanking on wires and all this bullcrap, gave me a headache.

    http://www.artscyclery.com/learningcenter/shimanorearderailleurs.html
  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    rubez wrote:
    Expert here. Just done this yesterday. This was my BIG mistake - thinking you had to pull the gears cable very tight, but in fact that was why I think I couldn't get into certain gears.

    I bought a stupid extra hand tool for this, but it is 100% useless.

    You can pull the wire with your hand through and tighten up the bolt... and not even particularly tight - that's all you need, too much tension is bad. Forget pliers... just keep any barrell adjusts screwed all the way in beforehand.

    Very handy article. Explains it 100 times clearer than Parktools, which is unnecessarily convoluted... that has you yanking on wires and all this bullcrap, gave me a headache.

    http://www.artscyclery.com/learningcenter/shimanorearderailleurs.html

    Haha. Please ingnore this. Especially the instructions on how to do it.
  • rubez
    rubez Posts: 323
    edited May 2014
    Ignore if you like, but I spent an hour trying the Parktool method to no avail.

    I managed to do this in less than 5 minutes - shifting through all gears smoothly with one click, no hesitation, very pleased.

    I have NO idea why park tools have taken 5000% more text to cover the same subject, that is one seriously anal article.

    Basically you set your outer and inner stop limit screws, shift into middle of cassette, say 4th gear - click 4 times, then adjust barrel adjuster until the nearest cog on your derailleur is dead centre above the 4th gear cog.

    I think this site is affiliated with Parktools or something...
  • felix.london
    felix.london Posts: 4,067
    I've never had a problem just pulling the cable through with my fingers (left hand) and tightening the bolt with my right. Easy. Like rubez says (!!) it doesn't have to be strained on with pliers - don't forget the cable has to get a whole lot tighter as it moves up through the gears
    "Why have that extra tooth if you're not using it?" - Brian Lopes

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  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    It depends on the cable routing and the outers, if I don't apply enough pressure on mine the outer comes a little way out the shifter and you end up with a slack cable, I can't do it with my fingers so use pliers, although I'm far from heaving on it.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    rubez wrote:

    I think this site is affiliated with Parktools or something...

    Not so, but at least I suppose, it's better than being affiliated with Scope.
  • rubez
    rubez Posts: 323
    Ironically you probably look more like a retard when your out biking with your stupid helmet on, gimp!
  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    rubez wrote:
    Ironically you probably look more like a retard when your out biking with your stupid helmet on, gimp!

    It's 'you're' and at least it's not a foam helmet.
  • rubez
    rubez Posts: 323
    Picking on my grammar :D

    You really wear a helmet then?

    What else, the skintight spandex?! :lol:

    Dear god.
  • drlodge
    drlodge Posts: 4,826
    edited May 2014
    rubez wrote:
    Ironically you probably look more like a retard when your out biking with your stupid helmet on, gimp!

    It's 'you're' and at least it's not a foam helmet.

    No rubez was correct in the use of "your". "you're" is short for "you are". [Oops I am the retard now]

    And I also agree with his way of indexing the gears - align top jockey wheel to the sprockets, but you have to take the chain off to do it properly.
    WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
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  • rubez
    rubez Posts: 323
    edited May 2014
    Two yours, one mistake.
  • larkim
    larkim Posts: 2,485
    drlodge wrote:
    rubez wrote:
    Ironically you probably look more like a retard when your out biking with your stupid helmet on, gimp!

    It's 'you're' and at least it's not a foam helmet.

    No rubez was correct in the use of "your". "you're" is short for "you are".
    Apart from the time when he wasn't (see above).

    btw all - retard - not a pleasant turn of phrase. Idiot may be more appropriate. Fool. Dumbass. Jerk. Plenty of other choices available.
    2015 Canyon Nerve AL 6.0 (son #1's)
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  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    drlodge wrote:
    rubez wrote:
    Ironically you probably look more like a retard when your out biking with your stupid helmet on, gimp!

    It's 'you're' and at least it's not a foam helmet.

    No rubez was correct in the use of "your". "you're" is short for "you are".
    Failed correction fail.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

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    Parktools
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    rubez wrote:
    Ironically you probably look more like a retard when your out biking with your stupid helmet on, gimp!


    I think it finally proves the point that helmets are worth wearing - falling on your head regularly without one causes brain damage,
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • rubez
    rubez Posts: 323
    Probably, but then I've never fallen off my bike onto my head.

    Worth wearing if you don't mind looking like a knob, or have bad balance :lol:
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    So, as I'm bored, what did you fall off?
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • Wily-Quixote
    Wily-Quixote Posts: 269
    Thanks for the on-topic replies and the grammar war.... i'll attempt the fix tomorrow.

    BTW retard is not an offensive word, it just means delayed development. I have delayed development in my workshop skills.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    rubez wrote:
    Ironically you probably look more like a retard when your out biking with your stupid helmet on, gimp!
    I think it was this usage of the word that caused issues
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • larkim
    larkim Posts: 2,485
    I beg to differ. When used as a noun "a retard" (as in the thread title and elsewhere in the thread) it is a word which has come to be considered as inappropriate or offensive. In my defence I offer:-
    http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/retard
    http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/retard

    I would be exceptionally offended if anyone, professionally or otherwise, ever referred to the member of my family which has learning disabilities as "a retard", in much the same way as I would react if they were referred to as "a mong", "a spaz", etc

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_di ... nnotations

    There's a reason why the Black Eyed Peas had to change their hit "Let's get retarded" to "Let's get it started"...

    Here endeth the lesson.
    2015 Canyon Nerve AL 6.0 (son #1's)
    2011 Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc (son #4s)
    2013 Decathlon Triban 3 (red) (mine)
    2019 Hoy Bonaly 26" Disc (son #2s)
    2018 Voodoo Bizango (mine)
    2018 Voodoo Maji (wife's)