Brakes squealing after cleaning/lubing

markiegrim
markiegrim Posts: 136
edited May 2014 in Road beginners
I've just upgraded the my pads on my Trek 1.5 to Swiss Stop Greens

All good until I did my usual washing/lube routine.
For lubing brakes, I just spray callipers with Fenwicks multi-purpose lube

Now both front and rear brakes squealing very loudly when braking (annoying as I moved to swiss stops to get away from the constant scraping caused by aluminium flecks in my old pads!)

IS it likely that the lube (which isn't very precise being a spray) has got on the rims/pads and is causing the squeak?

Trouble is, I have gone round the rims with cleaning fluid, wipes and rags, ditto pads and the squeal is still there

Don't think pads need toeing-in as they were fine before I did my cleaning/lubing thang

Any thoughts?

Will it just go away with time?

Comments

  • Rodders30
    Rodders30 Posts: 314
    Lube on the pads (contaminated)

    It may burn off over a very long time. You will prob end up changing the pads.

    Lesson learnt, lube and pads doesn't mix.
    Trek 1.5 Road
    Haro MTB
  • dabber
    dabber Posts: 1,973
    A little light sandpapering of the pads may help... wash them off after, before using.
    “You may think that; I couldn’t possibly comment!”

    Wilier Cento Uno SR/Wilier Mortirolo/Specialized Roubaix Comp/Kona Hei Hei/Calibre Bossnut
  • dj58
    dj58 Posts: 2,222
    You don't want to be spraying lube onto you brake calipers, as you have discovered you will contaminate your pads and rims/tyres. In future buy a bottle with a dropper nozzle as it will give you more control as to where the lube is going.
  • markiegrim
    markiegrim Posts: 136
    DJ58 wrote:
    You don't want to be spraying lube onto you brake calipers, as you have discovered you will contaminate your pads and rims/tyres. In future buy a bottle with a dropper nozzle as it will give you more control as to where the lube is going.

    Any suggestion re brand? My LBS annoyingly told me that the spray lube was ideal for the callipers (I think says OK on can as well...but clearly not!)
  • dj58
    dj58 Posts: 2,222
    Mark,

    The Fenwicks lube in the can is fine, it's just that aerosol sprays aren't very controllable, even when you use one of those extension tubes. That lube is a water dispersant like WD40, why not dry the calipers as best you with a microfibre cloth and then use the Fenwicks general use lube which does come in a bottle.

    I've only ever used 3 in 1 oil, Finish Line cross country wet lube and Shimano wet lube, all can be used to lubricate pivots as well as chains.
  • markiegrim
    markiegrim Posts: 136
    DJ58 wrote:
    Mark,

    The Fenwicks lube in the can is fine, it's just that aerosol sprays aren't very controllable, even when you use one of those extension tubes. That lube is a water dispersant like WD40, why not dry the calipers as best you with a microfibre cloth and then use the Fenwicks general use lube which does come in a bottle.

    I've only ever used 3 in 1 oil, Finish Line cross country wet lube and Shimano wet lube, all can be used to lubricate pivots as well as chains.

    Thanks DJ
    The "general use lube" on the Fenwicks site appears to be a chain lube..still OK for callipers?
    Now I read their site for the multipurpose spray lube, it does say avoid brakes - what was I thinking!
  • dj58
    dj58 Posts: 2,222
    Hi Mark,

    It should be, you need something that is viscous enough to flow and that stays put. Says on their website that it is a little thicker than their dry lube, which makes me wonder if their wet lube is thicker still. If you are going to buy from your LBS ask them what they would recommended. You only need 2/3 drops on the pivot points.

    Found this on Sheldon Brown's website, may be of some help with cleaning your pads/rims.

    •Clean the rims with a good, oil-free solvent (citrus, alcohol, something like that.) In obstinate cases, wash with dishwashing detergent and a nylon-bristle brush to clean brake-shoe deposits and remaining solvent off the rim; then rinse with water. Sanding the surface of a new brake shoe lightly will remove any slippery chemical deposits. Jobst Brandt recommends using a dusting of household cleanser on a wet rim, then riding and applying the brake to clean the brake shoes and the rim.
  • dj58
    dj58 Posts: 2,222
    Mark,

    Just seen this recommended on the Road Buying Forum, and noticed that they do it in a luber pen, might be worth checking out for your calipers? http://bikes.progoldmfr.com/products/
  • getfit14
    getfit14 Posts: 15
    Might be a daft question but i get alot of rubbing especially on my back pads as if there is debri trapped i take them off and clean them and they are fine until i go on another ride . The pads are 11 months old and i pick out a small piece of metal and clean the wheel rims. What im not sure about is is the metal being picked off the rim and why or does the block need changing
  • dj58
    dj58 Posts: 2,222
    What caliper and pads are they?
  • getfit14
    getfit14 Posts: 15
    Promax dual pivot long reach ,dont know which pads it is a Cannondale Synapse
  • dj58
    dj58 Posts: 2,222
    It might be due to a combination of the grade of alloy used for the rim and the abrasiveness of the pad material, plus the usual road detritus that collects on the rims.

    Have you considered a change of pads to something less abrasive, like Swisstop Black, Green or Blue or Koolstop.

    http://www.swissstop.ch/Road.aspx
    http://www.koolstop.com/english/rim_pads.html
  • getfit14
    getfit14 Posts: 15
    Thanks for your replies ,its only the last month or so its started to happen but will look at your recommendations

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