How can I tell if my XT mech is a clutch type

mattrixdesign2
mattrixdesign2 Posts: 644
edited May 2014 in MTB workshop & tech
How can I tell if my XT mech is a clutch type? The bike is a a Cube LTD SL (bought end of 2012) with XT and Rebas, with a Shimano branded triple chainset.

Mulling over 1 x 10 - clutch mech would be handy! Or 2 x 10. Not sure if the shifters would be compatible, I am sure I read about an internal switch to go from 3sp to 2sp, or did I imagine it?

Comments

  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    Depends on the version of shifter. Otherwise just use the limit screws.

    The mech will have a clutch on it. If you're not sure then I think not.

    Triples can still use clutches.
  • russyh
    russyh Posts: 1,375
    When you look at the rear mech is there any little lever on it at all or something that looks like a lever, usually with On/Off written near by (its normally grey or black and on the front of the mech) if there is its a shadow+ which means it has a clutch if it doesn't (which i suspect is the case) its just a standard mech. I am 90% certain it wont be a clutch mech.

    As for shifters i agree with chunkers, just wind the outer limit screw in to stop shifting to the big ring. I seem to recall XTR having a small switch, i wouldn't worry about it to much though. Limit screw is the future!
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    It's an external switch on the shifter if it has one - look on the underside of the LH shifter, it'll be obvious. You can use the stop screws if you convert a triple chainset to a double. Personally I found when I ran a proper Shimano double the shifter didn't work well when set to the "3x" position, but I don't know if the spacing is different.

    If it has a clutch it'll be a grey plastic lever just in front of the upper jockey wheel you can rotate as Russy says.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Pics on the Shimano website make it obvious which is clutched and which not!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Russyh wrote:
    When you look at the rear mech is there any little lever on it at all or something that looks like a lever, usually with On/Off written near by (its normally grey or black and on the front of the mech) if there is its a shadow+ which means it has a clutch if it doesn't (which i suspect is the case) its just a standard mech. I am 90% certain it wont be a clutch mech.

    As for shifters i agree with chunkers, just wind the outer limit screw in to stop shifting to the big ring. I seem to recall XTR having a small switch, i wouldn't worry about it to much though. Limit screw is the future!

    I see, I didn't realise there was an obvious switch on the mech, I will cross check, but I am sure there isn't some external switch. I think what confused me (been out of MTBing for a long while!) what is was a Shadow mech, I didn't realise there was Shadow+.

    If I was to consider 1 x 10, using as much kit as I have now, what is the minimum I would require?

    New Chainset, chain link (need to buy a new one as always carry one spare), would I get away without any retention device or not worth trying?

    Or I go double, and its a new chainset and reduce chain length, and set limit screws.

    The MTB gets used the least, and never road going, I have the road bike and CX for that. The biggest ring is very rarely used, I can climb most hills on the middle ring, if I didn't have the choice I would climb them all on the middle sized ring.

    Only toying with the idea, what got me thinking was a MTB race I did back in Feb, it was muddy, and the front mech just stayed in one posistion collecting mud, lots of it. And a single would makes things easier to clean down.
  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    For the x1 minimum, nothing
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Agreed, the minimum is nothing, just never change gear or remove front shifter and lock off the front mech on the stops.

    Unless you have rivetted chainrings you never need a new chainset.

    You'll need a retention device of some sort (old front mech for example).
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.