formula brake bleed frustration

rickbst170

Hi all,

Getting irritated. I can't get my rear brake as nice as I'd like. I'm not using the proper £20 bleed kit, I'm using short barbs I happen to have. I've got the lever off, the port as high as it'll go but still getting more lever pull after the process than I want.

Front is great, but I didn't bleed the front.

Just occurred to me, is the long barb is the proper kit as long as it is because the port is too low in the lever to be able to make it the highest point without extending it? Doesn't look like it needs a longer barb. Is there a special process for formula the one? Or am I just being crap

Cheers.

nicklouse

You have downloaded and read the manual?


Is the lever travel just fish to the pistons moving?

Go yes then and get them bedded in.

rickbst170

Not sure I understand any of that. Lever travel fish? Go yes?

Might be being stupid so sorry if I am. Ta

The Rookie

Look at the calliper as you squeeze the brake, do the pads move more than the front? If so it is nothing to do with bleeding but that the pistons are retracting to far.

I suspect Nick's post has been autocorrected by an apple device, they are a wonder of modern technology for inserting words nothing like the one you intended!

Levi_501

Are the brakes still on the bike?

I found Formulas much easier to bleed off the bike; especially hung from a beam.

rickbst170

Sorted - I think.

Removed caliper from mount, taped to seatpost/downtube. Remove pads and chock piston. Attach syringe. Remove lever and tape to a stand next to bike. Fit syringe. Pump back and forth ending with push up from caliper to lever. Remove caliper syringe and fit plug. Pump lever and draw vacuum to pull out bubbles. Refill with bubble free fluid. Do this lots (this is where I was impatient I think). When letting out lever pump in bubble free fluid on last lever pump. Remove syringe and fit plug. Done.

I think I wasn't clearing bubbles from lever and also used slightly narrower chock for the piston (I've got a decent set of feeler gauges so used a few points of a mill less).

Think I contaminated pads though as didn't take of gloves! Knobhead soak in fairy liquid the best solution without replacing? Bit of wet and dry to resurface or just ride about to bed in? Bite ok but squeal a lot.

Ta

stubs

Sorry once they have brake fluid or oil on them you will never quite get them back good as new despite all the stuff you will see on the internet about soaking them in lighter fluid or sanding them or putting them in the oven on gas mark 4. A new set of pads from the likes of Uberbike, Superstar or Disco (plus lots of others) wont break the bank. I have just bought a pair of Uberbike Kevlar pads for £8.99 to give them a try, took 2 days to arrive.

02gf74

..... or burn off the fluid by holding in the flame from your gas cooker . not guranteed to worth but worth a try.

rickbst170

I stuck them in the cooker at 205C for 20 mins. No squeaking now but still not great. One finger braking barely locks the wheel. 2 fingers will but it's effort. Put the fronts in the back and now that it's all bled it stops Damn quick so pads are the main issue for stopping and any lever travel now.

Found 4 pairs of uberbike pads for 22.99 or 4 pairs superstars for 17.99 sounds good. Was just reading someone's review of ebc vs formula OE vs Goodrich pads and they liked the ebc and Goodrich pads for bite and lifespan.

Anyone got any pad favourites? I don't brake much but when I do I want to know I'll stop. Pretty light on pads but don't want them to wear out after 100 miles.

Cheers
Rick