Preperation for applying squirt

The Rookie
The Rookie Posts: 27,812
edited May 2014 in MTB workshop & tech
On my commuter the drivetrain has all been cleaned of the Muc-off wet lube gunge, new chain, bottle of squirt arrived.

Do I just put it on over the stock oil, wipe off excess or clean (the outside) thoroughly first?
Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.

Comments

  • pesky_jones
    pesky_jones Posts: 2,890
    I think the stock grease on the chain is one of the best greases you can get for the chain, so just leave it - don't wipe it off
  • jimothy78
    jimothy78 Posts: 1,407
    The Rookie wrote:
    Do I just put it on over the stock oil, wipe off excess or clean (the outside) thoroughly first?

    I asked moreorless the same question the other day. The consensus was to run the chain using the factory lube until it needs cleaning, then thoroughly strip and dry before applying squirt. No point applying squirt to a chain with any oil or grease on it, as it's water-based and won't penetrate anywhere.
  • pilch
    pilch Posts: 1,136
    The Rookie wrote:
    On my commuter the drivetrain has all been cleaned of the Muc-off wet lube gunge, new chain, bottle of squirt arrived.

    Do I just put it on over the stock oil, wipe off excess or clean (the outside) thoroughly first?

    You let me down... I thought you knew everything :(
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  • .blitz
    .blitz Posts: 6,197
    Have had a few new chains that have been swimming in oil so I generally wipe them clean before Squirting them.

    If there is any residue Squirt drops off and takes the excess oil with it so you end up with a curiously clean chain but the factory oil is still where you need it. After that you need never buy another bottle of degreaser just polish the chain and maybe remove any excess with an old toothbrush, then reapply Squirt the night before a ride
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    pilch wrote:
    You let me down... I thought you knew everything :(
    Nope, never said it, claimed it or tried to imply it....I know what I know and also know what I don't know!

    OK consensus is to run it for a bit, clean the outside and then squirt it......
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    Nope, I'd clean the lot, just before you'd actually apply normal lube to a chain after running down the factory grease.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    OK....CD has in the past suggested you don't want a deep clean to remove the lube in the joints which the squirt then keeps in, so just clean the outside.....CD?
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • pesky_jones
    pesky_jones Posts: 2,890
    They're outdated, probally available on MP3 now.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    I'm a cloud based download service now.
    To be honest I'm really lazy, so I used to degrease the chain once the factory lube was running low and then use Squirt.
    Now I just use it when the original stuff is finished.
    But I would always recommend to other to follow the rules.
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  • jimothy78
    jimothy78 Posts: 1,407
    cooldad wrote:
    Now I just use it when the original stuff is finished.

    How d'you know when that is, then?
    Also, how do you know when the Squirt needs topping up? Never had to worry about that with the wet stuff, just wiped and relubed as a matter of course, but if Squirt sells itself on being "long lasting", and not needing that sort of regime, then how often should one expect to need to re-apply?
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Just natural skill and talent I guess.

    AFAIK it doesn't sell itself on being long lasting, just not being mucky. I'll run a new chain for a month or two without doing anything, then lube when it starts feeling a bit 'dry' - maybe it's just random. Same with relubing - in dry weather I'll easily go up to 10 rides or more between lubes, wet maybe 5 or less and horrendous weather a few. As long as it still feels 'supple' I'm happy - the outside is dry and bare, clean metal.

    So just when I feel the need I suppose. My current chain (and cassette and rings - all changed at the same time) is well over a year old.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

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  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    And by wet, I do mean wet

    1526535_10152098830453774_577707026_n.jpg
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I agree, you do look wet......there is a puddle in the photo as well!

    OK Thanks for the advice CD, as (I think) the forums most experienced squirter I shall take your advice on how and when to lube up very seriously.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Correct and adequate lubing can save a world of pain.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • r3hxn
    r3hxn Posts: 127
    annnnd thats what she said....

    Cannondale Cx2 Hybrid
    Scott Scale - Custom mtb - Work in progress
  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    but never to you....
  • r3hxn
    r3hxn Posts: 127
    im not quite sure if that turned out to be an insult or a complement....

    Cannondale Cx2 Hybrid
    Scott Scale - Custom mtb - Work in progress