CX1 on a mixed use bike
mattjevans
Posts: 253
Hi all,
I'm about to get a new cx frame that I plan to build up for mixed road and offroad use over summer and aim to do some cross races once I build up the fitness.
I already have most of the drivetrain but no mechs (sold with my last bike). I'm eyeing up the new SRAM CX1 setup (at least the rear derailleur, Race Face seems like a more cost effective option for the chainring), but I wonder if a 1x10/1x11 setup is workable for road riding (note I don't really do group rides).
Until that CX1 rear mech is available I could throw a cheaper-end rear mech on (eg Apex wifli) for now. But if 1x is not going to be suitable I'd spend more on a Red/Force mech combo now to match the rest of my group.
Thoughts? No doubt there will be some strongly held opinions about this, but have at it...
I'm about to get a new cx frame that I plan to build up for mixed road and offroad use over summer and aim to do some cross races once I build up the fitness.
I already have most of the drivetrain but no mechs (sold with my last bike). I'm eyeing up the new SRAM CX1 setup (at least the rear derailleur, Race Face seems like a more cost effective option for the chainring), but I wonder if a 1x10/1x11 setup is workable for road riding (note I don't really do group rides).
Until that CX1 rear mech is available I could throw a cheaper-end rear mech on (eg Apex wifli) for now. But if 1x is not going to be suitable I'd spend more on a Red/Force mech combo now to match the rest of my group.
Thoughts? No doubt there will be some strongly held opinions about this, but have at it...
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Comments
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If I was building up a pure CX/OffRoad/maybe short commute type, I would certainly consider X1/CX1, kind of makes sense to me. The amount of times I have looked down on my MTB or CX only to the the front mech acting as a crude shelf for mud and not doing much else
It gets more complicated if road is more of a priority (or even other things like touring etc), you are likely to run out of gears, but if you don't want to get anywhere too fast or for too long you should be OK? Maybe worth working out what ranges you can get based on the front ring vs rear casette, with a bit of calculating you may not be too far off a 2x10 range, never really thought about it in detail, you must miss some of the higher end gears?
My TriCross is used for commute, some mild off road, but also good for a tour, so its unlikely I would ever go down the 1x option, its is currently a tripple and I wouldn't mind going down to a double when bits start to wear.
I really want some sort of CX/Rigid 29er/1x11 - monster cross thing, but thats just to many bikes :roll:0 -
It's pretty much what I'm planning to do but with Ultegra 6800. I'm going to go for 42t Race Face chainring and 11-32t and a long cage rear mech. I've been told the long cage mech will not keep the chain tight enough but I'm going to give it a go. I've taken it apart and reset it to the higher tension setting. If it fails then I'll just get a Paul's chain keeper. From what I've read on various MTB forums there are plenty of people who've run non-clutch long cage mechs with narrow wide chainrings and had no problems, but as many again who have had chain drop. I thought about the SRAM CX1 stuff but the price of the mech put me off, especially as it could get ruined when racing. The 6800 I thought a bit too pricey for cross but the 105 11 speed mech will be out soon at half the price.
I think that gives me the range of gears for racing and for mixed use. I don't have a road bike and don't do many group rides either. I do some road riding on my cross bike and I have a 46-12 top gear now, not much more than the 42-11 and I've never felt the need for anything bigger. I may also get a 38t chainring depending on which course I'm racing on.0 -
Due to family commitments my road riding is really limited to 1-ish hour out and backs. I need a fairly low gear to get up the hills (particularly as I live on one), a 40/32 would be near enough to the 34/28 I have now.
I'd basically lose 20%, the top 3 current gears, at the top end doing it this way. Alternatively with a 42t ring, lose 15% at the top end but obviously a slightly harder lowest ratio.0 -
Based on that I am guessing it could be right for you.
You have to weigh it up:
Its simpler
Lighter
Less likely to go wrong
...you loose gear range - if you don't have the options maybe you wont miss those extra gears.0 -
On balance I think I might go 1x10 direction0
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go for a wide narrow chain ring and a type 2 sram clutch mech if you are worried by chain loss
http://absoluteblack.cc/cx-rings.html0 -
Cx1 is a clutch mech
Was thinking Raceface chain ring, narrow wide as you say. The SRAM rings are twice the price0 -
why not a x9 type 2 they are 10 speed and about 1/3rd of the price of the CX1?0
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For some reason I thought the cable pull was wrong on a Red shifter, but if it works I'll look into it0
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