175 to 172.5 crank

My current crank is 175 on 58cm frame. Can anyone explain what the likely impact on riding performance would be to changing to 172.5 length?
2010 Specialised Sirrus Pro (drop bar conversion)
1993 Specialised Rockhopper A1
Voodoo Limba - for out with the kids
1993 Specialised Rockhopper A1
Voodoo Limba - for out with the kids
0
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My winter bike has 172.5 and a Summer bike 175- not for any particular reason. My knees haven't exploded so far....
Jesus! Someone put too many testosterone patches on this morning!
Are you going to copy n paste your outburst onto every:
What frame
What wheels
What bib shorts
What tyres
What energy drink
What saddle
Thread?
There's a search function? Won't that make the site really boring.
I've notice no difference, except for maybe a few mm difference on the seatpost.
Pinarello GAN
What about the,
What bike for £300
What bike for £600
What bike for £1000
What bike for £3000
They surely deserve a mention...?
Crank lengths can have a massive impact on comfort and performance.
All this "I changed and didn't notice anything so you won't" doesn't really mean anything to anyone else.
However, realistically is this going to make any difference to me as a newish club member...no not really.
I'm just a perfectionist and if I can make it right then I'll try.
1993 Specialised Rockhopper A1
Voodoo Limba - for out with the kids
http://bikedynamics.co.uk/FitGuidecranks.htm
Most of the responses here sway towards absolutely NO DIFFERENCE between 170, 172.5 & 175...
If so, why do the manufacturers even bother doing different lengths cranks? Why don't they just do 172.5s?
Having longer crank lengths isn't going to give you more room. If the angles for your leg at the bottom and top of the stroke are supposed to be around 143' and 70', longer cranks will mean the bottom angle stays exactly the same as the leg extension will be set as normal, but the angle at the top of the stroke becomes more compressed due to the seat having to be lowered.
It isn't that most of the responses sway towards it having no effect, it's that some people simply don't have the ability to notice these things or more often than not, because they haven't tried it they won't buy into the idea that it could possibly have any benefit. As someone who has tried it and found it works for me and I can notice the difference, I'm behind the theory enough to have bought shorter chainsets for both road bikes.
Thanks for your reply
I like your DEGREES theory and understand what you mean...
Am I to assume that for different sizes, ONLY the crank arms are different, and the rest of the chain rings etc are the same?
Are crank ARMS sold separately?
Thanks
But consider this; the circumference of the circle scribed by your pedal axle is 1099mm with 175mm cranks, and 1067mm with 170mm. Suddenly doesn't seem quite so small…….
I am an advocate of smaller cranks; you can spin better, less strain, and get more aero.
Except that with shorter cranks you have to push harder (more strain) just to generate the same power (for a given gearing). You can drop the gearing to reduce the strain, but then you have to maintain a faster cadence just to get the same power.The higher cadence is not an advantage, it's a requirement to maintain speed. The only real variable is the muscular efficiency over difference ranges of motion.
Like I said I'm gonna organise a bike fit to get it all checked out.
1993 Specialised Rockhopper A1
Voodoo Limba - for out with the kids
Funny thing is a close friend of mine is kind of OCD with his cycling, wasn't happy with his riding position, had a bike fitting session for around £100, still wasn't happy, did another fit outside London (drove 75 miles for it), and they gave him VERY DIFFERENT NUMBERS AND SUGGESTIONS!!!!
And he's still unhappy...