Rockshox Reba SL dual air.......general tech questions.

Clockworkmark31

Not tried 5ps difference I just went for the extreme 15psi difference.

Will release 10psi from -ve tomorrow before my ride and see how that affects things.

I am not too sure in what affect the negative and positive pressures work together.

But when I set sag with no -ve pressure the forks were very stiff and adding -ve compensated for this.

So maybe adjusting -ve will stiffen the fork.

Simple suspension fork makes my job look easy haha

The Northern Monkey

Set sag with the same in +ve and -ve.

Then tune the -ve in increments of no more than 2-3psi.

Then tune the rebound.

Ride, and play about with the -ve to dial in.

It takes time and patience, but the dual air rs forks are one of the best user tuneable forks out there, you just have to take time to actually tune it instead of "going to the extremes".

coulddobetter

Agree with Rockmonkey . Keep riding familiar section of trail. Make small 2 psi adjustments at a time , , don't change too many settings at a time . Make a note of what works .

Clockworkmark31

Well after just getting back from the work commute. The forks felt smooth for my ride.

Thought I'd give the suggestion ago and adjust ve- a few psi at a time.

Remember I set +ve to 155psi and -ve to 170psi.

Connected today and both were equal at just under 150psi?

Somewhat confused now as they don't have an air leak. Pretty sure you don't lose air when removing shock pump.

Why the difference do they need a ride to settle the air in the chambers? Or do I have a leak?

Was thinking of sending them to mojo for a service, but this is something I could perform myself and then try the 120mm and if I don't like convert back as I will have the redrum etc.

Interested to hear more on your fork flex northern and why my pressures have changed.

cooldad

When you connect the pump it fills with air from the forks - their volume is small so the pressure drops a bit. The negative is the smallest so it loses more pressure, relatively.
They don't lose air when you disconnect.
Take the large hairy one's advice, stop thinking so much and ride.

Clockworkmark31

haha will take the hairy ones advice, they did feel pretty good today and I do this route twice daily 5 times a week.

Smoothest I have had them. Will just give them a lower service myself just to top up the oil and keep them smooth.

Interested in northerns fork flex as I was wanting to do the same thing, but will hold off until I see the outcome.

Clockworkmark31

To think I work with oscilloscopes, load meters and a number of fancy electronic things and components the size of a pin head. And these yet simple forks make me scratch my head more than my job haha

Clockworkmark31

After seeing northern monkeys problem, I am going to give the 120mm travel a try too.

I had a similar issue but my wheel was flexing, using superstar carbon titanium QR, found I had to really tighten them up to stop it.

Could I get away with just a lower leg seal kit, or is it advised to replace all seals?

On a plus note I beat my first roadie on the commute home, had to give it some :twisted:

cooldad

Get some decent Shimano QRs. The best and cheap.

Clockworkmark31

Hey, one last question please and I have researched it.

For oil in the lower legs and foam rings could I use something like castrol motorbike fork oil it is 10wt rather than using redrum?

supersonic

Yep! As long as is fully synthetic and has no seal swellers in. Will say on bottle.

Clockworkmark31

Seal swellers?

I was looking at this http://www.castrolmoto.com/en/products/fork_oil.php

Clockworkmark31

Sorry not that one the GP synthetic one this http://www.castrolmoto.com/en/products/ ... rk_oil.php

supersonic

Should be fine, but some do contain additives that can swell seals.

Clockworkmark31

Quick update,

Relubed the lower forks last night with the castrol fully synthetic 10wt fork oil, foam rings were dry, anyway all went smooth, added some rebound set the pressures etc. Ended up putting 10ml in each leg as I had that number stuck in my head, later checked and it should be 5ml, but oh well more is usually better.

Took an off road route to work today instead of the monotonous road route.

Now the front feels dialed in, found myself looking for rough terrain. Plush, controllable and predictable.

Was that impressed I came the same way back.

So even though I was late for work this morning I am happy with the setup now.

Thanks for all the input guys and bearing with me. With initial setup and now serviced lowers, it feels how I want it to feel now.

But the devil on my back is wanting to try the 120mm travel :?

As the fork is working as it should, if I tried it, could I get away with just taking it apart and removing the spacer and back together again with out having to relube everything? Obviously I will have to top the lower oil up again.

In theory I think it should be fine? Unless someone can think otherwise?

malv173

You'll need to check if your frame allows for 120mm travel. I used to have a Cube Ltd Pro that came with the Rebas and that would only allow 100mm max travel. Extending travel beyond that can put too much stress on the head tube, and if anything goes wrong at the very best your warranty is void. I've bought a steel frame to get the 120mm travel out of the forks.