cassette and hub issue?

mike hunts alpine

Just received my wheel back from warranty with a free hope pro evo 2 hub upgrade on my rear wheel. So I'm putting shimano hg 62_10 cassette back on and the smallest cog is sitting proud of the hub by a considerable amount they are on correctly with no spacer but the locking will not tighten it spins a few turn then when it starts to tighten it jumps back off. All threads are intact on hub and locking. What the heck is the issue me so confused ?

mike hunts alpine

Is this a 9,speed freehub body they have put on by mistake?

Chunkers1980

Should be the same. Lose the rookie ring though. Are you sure the cassette is built and slotted properly?

nicklouse

Are you sure the small ring is seated correctly?

mike hunts alpine

Made sure everything is seated correctly I'm sure it only goes on one way as it has one thin slot only to go on?

mike hunts alpine

And what is a rookie ring? Haha

mike hunts alpine

Same exact space between every cog.

mike hunts alpine

Any clues?

rickbst170

Is the whole cassette sitting too far down the hub? Maybe the slots in the new freewheel are not quite long enough preventing the cassette sliding far enough back? I mean. Where it is closest to the wheel hub, there is a U shaped end to the slot. Is there anything preventing the cassette getting right into the U bit?

mike hunts alpine

Measured the lengths of them both and the cassette is longer. What does this mean?
And no all clear nothing blocking it its sitting flush at the bottom of the grooves. On freehub body.

mike hunts alpine

How it should sit flush I've removed second smallest cog to get it to sit flush. Able to tighten locking.


Then how it sits with all cogs on not flush. Unable to tighten lockring

mike hunts alpine

Possibly a 135mm hub spacing hub when I have 140mm I am brainfucked.

nicklouse

I would be checking the codes on the cogs.

nicklouse

mike hunts alpine wrote:

Possibly a 135mm hub spacing hub when I have 140mm I am brainfucked.

Would make no difference as the freehub will be the same.

mike hunts alpine

Photo of wheel on bike and freehub body does not come out as far as it should where smallest cog sits under rear mech. Too short.

mike hunts alpine

To add I kept cassette while wheel was sent off for repair so it is original one not been changed. What codes ? These

mike hunts alpine

The hub says pro2 evo 40t my biggest ring is 38t that the issue?

benpinnick

mike hunts alpine wrote:

How it should sit flush I've removed second smallest cog to get it to sit flush. Able to tighten locking.


Then how it sits with all cogs on not flush. Unable to tighten lockring

This looks right - you need a small gap between the last cog and the freehub or it wont tighten up properly. The picture at the top wouldnt tighten up properly.

jimothy78

benpinnick wrote:

This looks right - you need a small gap between the last cog and the freehub or it wont tighten up properly. The picture at the top wouldnt tighten up properly.

This was my immediate thought, too - if the smallest ring was flush with the end of the freehub body, then the lockring would be tightening on the body itself, rather than putting pressure on the cassette to hold it together (a bit like not having enough of a gap at the top of the steerer tube when fitted a headset).

Not sure if the gap should necessarily be that large, though, but if you're having trouble tightening the lockring with that 1-2mm gap, then i reckon the threads on the lockring are knackered - have you tried a different one?

mike hunts alpine

jimothy78 wrote:

benpinnick wrote:

This looks right - you need a small gap between the last cog and the freehub or it wont tighten up properly. The picture at the top wouldnt tighten up properly.

This was my immediate thought, too - if the smallest ring was flush with the end of the freehub body, then the lockring would be tightening on the body itself, rather than putting pressure on the cassette to hold it together (a bit like not having enough of a gap at the top of the steerer tube when fitted a headset).

Not sure if the gap should necessarily be that large, though, but if you're having trouble tightening the lockring with that 1-2mm gap, then i reckon the threads on the lockring are knackered - have you tried a different one?

Only have the one locking and threads on fine with the second smallest cog off or cassette off and it tightens so its quite a confusing one.

nicklouse

mike hunts alpine wrote:

Photo of wheel on bike and freehub body does not come out as far as it should where smallest cog sits under rear mech. Too short.

Means nothing you adjust the mech to suit.

What codes are there on the lock ring!

Pics?

jimothy78

mike hunts alpine wrote:

Only have the one locking and threads on fine with the second smallest cog off or cassette off and it tightens so its quite a confusing one.

yes, but lets say for the sake of argument that there's a problem with first 1-2mm of the threads, this shows itself when you start threading, but not further in, when the undamaged parts start to mesh. By removing a sprocket, and starting the lockring artificially close to the freehub body, you're in effect skipping those early, dmaged threads and so not noticing the problem.

It may not be the actual reason you're having problems, but the argument that the lockring works when the cassette isn't fitted properly isn't proof that the lockring works as it should

benpinnick

Heres the same model hub with a 10spd XT cassette https://www.dropbox.com/s/ya5ji4dpaj9u8ld/DSC_0076.JPG (Sorry I couldnt be bothered to make it show up here... lazy I know).

You'll note that the overhang above the freehub looks the same as your second pic. This one does up fine.

mike hunts alpine

Took it to lbs they tried new locking and it did exact same thing they were as pickled as me by it was in there a good half hour trying everything. Only way it would sit right and lock correctly was if 2nd smallest cog was removed. Just going g to get sunset to pick it up again this time with cassette.

mike hunts alpine

nicklouse wrote:

mike hunts alpine wrote:

Photo of wheel on bike and freehub body does not come out as far as it should where smallest cog sits under rear mech. Too short.

Means nothing you adjust the mech to suit.

What codes are there on the lock ring!

Pics?

HG62-10 11-36T the sticker has fallen off so no point In pics.

njee20

Have you measured the Length of the free hub body compared to the old/another one. Looks like it's too short, although I can't think how, unless the CNC machine had an off day!

taffygriffiths

is the cassette fully onto the freehub?

perhaps theres a burr or peice of FOD somewhere stopping it. maybe just tight?

try giving it a few light knocks with a nylon mallet or similar to make sure it fully seats onto the freehub?

mike hunts alpine

taffygriffiths wrote:

is the cassette fully onto the freehub?

perhaps theres a burr or peice of FOD somewhere stopping it. maybe just tight?

try giving it a few light knocks with a nylon mallet or similar to make sure it fully seats onto the freehub?

Checked and tried this.

mike hunts alpine

njee20 wrote:

Have you measured the Length of the free hub body compared to the old/another one. Looks like it's too short, although I can't think how, unless the CNC machine had an off day!

Don't have another to compare it to. As they will have binned the previous hub that was on it. Unless there will be somewhere on the net with specs?

ej2320

I run an SLX 11-36 cassette on a Pro 2 evo hub and it's fine
Only thing I would think is the freehub is for 9 speed or something is stopping the cassette fully seating

nicklouse

ej2320 wrote:

I run an SLX 11-36 cassette on a Pro 2 evo hub and it's fine
Only thing I would think is the freehub is for 9 speed or something is stopping the cassette fully seating

And 9 spd freehubs are the same width for 10spd.