Non drive side crank sitting proud :/

tapitout
tapitout Posts: 42
edited May 2014 in Workshop
hi guys

hopefully the two pics will explain everything

37BCF52D-8AA6-41D2-84DA-D3C23B661A6A.jpg

72D67E21-13BA-4FF2-AC23-F83874C0C012.jpg

im installing an ultegra 6700 crank on to my felt b2 pro with ultegra bb

drive side crank arm is pushed all the way through (as far as im aware, ive pushed it on quite hard and it looks flush)
ive tried to do the same with the non drive side crank arm by pushing it on but as you hopefully can see from the photos there seems to be a small gap between bb and crank arm and also the drive side bolt which goes through the bb seems to be coming up short on the outside of the non drive side crank...

whats happening :/ lol
does a wee ring spacer ever need to go in between frame and bb or frame and crank?
even still that would still bring it up short
does the non drive side arm end fixing cap tighten the last bit? (im assuming it doesnt as youre not meant to tighten it hard)

any help appreciated

thanks

Comments

  • tapitout
    tapitout Posts: 42
    5270465B-C407-4CC7-961E-A2FA2CA1A941.jpg

    012AF754-9375-4294-9854-05F3F1498E8B.jpg
  • k-dog
    k-dog Posts: 1,652
    Can't see the pictures but I'm assuming it's the standard Hollowtech2. They can be pretty snug so you often need to give the drive side a good tap (rubber mallet or wooden block to protect the crank obviously).

    You shouldn't need any spacers and everything should look pretty right - as you say the plastic cap is just to load the bearings and isn't strong enough to push the crank on the thread.

    You've popped up the little locking tab haven't you? The pegs pops into the hole in the axle to stop it slipping off so if it's down you can't slide it on.
    I'm left handed, if that matters.
  • tapitout
    tapitout Posts: 42
    thanks for reply. i somehow managed to delete the photos from existence
    new ones added.
    whats the lockring tab????
  • k-dog
    k-dog Posts: 1,652
    See them now.

    When you loosen the 2 bolts that hold on the offside crank there is a little thin in the gap - it pivots on one bolt and had a slot in the other. It has a little peg that fits into the hole near the end of the axle.

    Before refitting the crank you have to flip it up - put something like a thin screwdriver in the groove and you'll be able to push it up.

    Then when the crank is in position you can push it down before you tighten the bolts.
    I'm left handed, if that matters.
  • freezing77
    freezing77 Posts: 731
    Figure_7-14.jpg

    Lockring tab.
  • k-dog
    k-dog Posts: 1,652
    P1030170.JPG

    Looks like that.
    I'm left handed, if that matters.
  • tapitout
    tapitout Posts: 42
    cheers dude. but i took everything off bolts and that we washed etc

    maybe thats just as far on as it goes as its just a case of pushing on the non drive side as far as it will go and that seems to be as far as it wants to go

    but...

    its strange there is that gap between arm and bb albeit only like 2/3 mm but pretty sure ive never seen it like that
    and also never seen the drive side so shallow in the non drive side arm :/

    #confused

    not sure if i want to ride it if its not 100%
  • dennisn
    dennisn Posts: 10,601
    You need to seek help, in this endeavor, from someone who knows what they are doing and can show you how.
    It doesn't sound like you have ever read the instructions on doing this. There is a certain way and order in which these things are done and you don't appear to know any of it.
  • tapitout
    tapitout Posts: 42
    I am seeking help on this site you jerk.
    you don't know what ive tried to do or what I have done.
    in the future please refrain from being unhelpful.
  • brownbosh
    brownbosh Posts: 602
    The message was correct, deliver poor!!
    Take a search on youtube hollowtech 2 crank removal / installation and a variety of videos will pop up.
    Also the plastic retaining screw in cap does pull the axle through and should be hand tightened using the tool ( I prefer not to attach a lever just use my fingers on the tool) PRIOR to doing up the bolts. I suggest removal and following the video.
  • dennisn
    dennisn Posts: 10,601
    tapitout wrote:
    I am seeking help on this site you jerk.
    you don't know what ive tried to do or what I have done.
    in the future please refrain from being unhelpful.

    You didn't know what the lockring tab was. You didn't know if you were missing a spacer or not. All this adds up to your doing something that you didn't bother looking into before you started.
    Shimano has great installation instructions on their website for all their products. Bunches of this kind of thing on you tube and yet you appear to have simply said "I don't need no stinking instructions". And now you've screwed it up and YOU wonder why?
  • dee4life2005
    dee4life2005 Posts: 773
    If it's a triple crankset you have then there should be a 3mm spacer between the non-drive side crank arm and the bottom bracket cup (http://www.bikeman.com/store/graphics/0 ... CR6774.jpg)

    see the techdocs
    http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techd ... 607279.pdf
    http://app.strava.com/athletes/307297
  • dee4life2005
    dee4life2005 Posts: 773
    Also, if you've installed the BB yourself, have you bit the cylindrical part of it in the right way round as I seem to recall it has to go a certain way round.
    http://app.strava.com/athletes/307297

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