How long does drive chain last?

bill_gates
bill_gates Posts: 469
edited May 2014 in Road general
I understand that there are environmental factors such as undertaking regular maintenance and how much abuse kit is given but in general, what length of time or length of distance should you expect from a modern Shimano 105 drive chain including, cassette, chain and jockey wheels?

"I like riding in my car, it's not quite a Jaguar."

Comments

  • sloppyschleckonds
    sloppyschleckonds Posts: 8,019
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    I'm sorry you don't believe in miracles
  • Bozman
    Bozman Posts: 2,518
    If you look after a chain you should get at least 3/3.5k, I get at least that and I probably change them before I have to but I do lube and rub the chain down after every ride, which is probably over the top.
    If you want a chain to last longer avoid a chain measuring tool and use a metal rule.
    3 maybe 4 chains to a cassette but sometimes I wonder why I change them because there never seems to be any sign of wear.
    I can't say that I've ever replaced a chainring or a derailleur due to wear but I do chop and change a lot.
  • MartinB2444
    MartinB2444 Posts: 266
    How does avoiding a chain measuring tool make a chain last longer?
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    MartinB2444 wrote:
    How does avoiding a chain measuring tool make a chain last longer?

    Because they are overly conservative. Most (not all) chain measuring tools measure wear both in the pins and the rollers. Roller wear doesn't matter though because, no matter how worn the roller is, the rollers themselves remain the same distance apart. With the pins worn however, the rollers can then move in relation to each other and that is where the problem is.

    Best approach - use a chain tool for a quick regular check and, when things start getting edgier, start using a ruler to measure the chain. Should get more life out of it then!
    Faster than a tent.......
  • bill_gates
    bill_gates Posts: 469
    What other factors would reduce the life of these items? One of my routes is very near the seaside, would excess sand be an issue and I also used mudguards during the winter which in turn might have put a lot of crud onto my running gear.

    I've had less than 1500 miles on the factory fitted chain/cassette, etc.

    "I like riding in my car, it's not quite a Jaguar."
  • Initialised
    Initialised Posts: 3,047
    Bill Gates wrote:
    What other factors would reduce the life of these items?

    Salt, sand, mud, grit, dust, surface roughness, gradient, rain, temperature, humidity, care, excessive/insufficient cleaning, cleaning method, lube choice and application method.
    I used to just ride my bike to work but now I find myself going out looking for bigger and bigger hills.
  • jameses
    jameses Posts: 653
    As others have said, it's very dependent on the conditions in which you ride and your maintenance, but as a very rough guide for mid-range components I would expect:

    Chain: 2500-3000 miles
    Cassette: 8000-10000 miles

    The middle ring on my triple setup (where I spend about 80% of the time) is just beginning to look worn after roughly 7000 miles, will probably get another 1000 miles or so out of it. I've never had to replace the jockey wheels.

    That's with riding throughout the year, cleaning the drivetrain every 150-200 miles (good weather) or 80-100 miles (bad weather).
  • How Far is too Far
    How Far is too Far Posts: 534
    I ran my last lot without changing the chain, I got just short of 10,000 miles out of it. The big ring was the most worn along with 4th to 7th on the cassett. This was a Sram Red groupset, I do not clean it after every ride maybe after 5 or 6 rides, and use what ever oil I have lying around.

    I am not totally convinced that changing a chain at 2000 miles is more cost effect than just running it until it is totally worn out, then replace the lot in one go and repeat.
  • jameses
    jameses Posts: 653
    Did you not find the shifting suffered when things got so worn? Not so much from the front chainring, but I've found when the cassette starts to wear the chain skips a lot at the back.
  • Initialised
    Initialised Posts: 3,047
    JamesEs wrote:
    Did you not find the shifting suffered when things got so worn? Not so much from the front chainring, but I've found when the cassette starts to wear the chain skips a lot at the back.
    If the cassette and chain wear together then they'll match until the chain snaps, most people only notice their cassette is worn when fitting a new chain causes it to start jumping hence the three to four chains per cassette rule of thumb.
    I used to just ride my bike to work but now I find myself going out looking for bigger and bigger hills.
  • chris_bass
    chris_bass Posts: 4,913
    Initialised wrote:
    JamesEs wrote:
    Did you not find the shifting suffered when things got so worn? Not so much from the front chainring, but I've found when the cassette starts to wear the chain skips a lot at the back.
    If the cassette and chain wear together then they'll match until the chain snaps, most people only notice their cassette is worn when fitting a new chain causes it to start jumping hence the three to four chains per cassette rule of thumb.

    i'm not sure this is 100% true unless you ride in the same gear all the time, otherwise the wear will be spread (unevenly depending on which gears you use the most) across the whole cassette
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  • Initialised
    Initialised Posts: 3,047
    Chris Bass wrote:
    Initialised wrote:
    JamesEs wrote:
    Did you not find the shifting suffered when things got so worn? Not so much from the front chainring, but I've found when the cassette starts to wear the chain skips a lot at the back.
    If the cassette and chain wear together then they'll match until the chain snaps, most people only notice their cassette is worn when fitting a new chain causes it to start jumping hence the three to four chains per cassette rule of thumb.

    i'm not sure this is 100% true unless you ride in the same gear all the time, otherwise the wear will be spread (unevenly depending on which gears you use the most) across the whole cassette
    Conceded, the favourite gears will wear faster but it'll still be longer before it gets jumpy than if you swap out to a brand new chain after a badly worn chain.
    I used to just ride my bike to work but now I find myself going out looking for bigger and bigger hills.
  • How Far is too Far
    How Far is too Far Posts: 534
    The big front chain ring is what gave problems first, the chain would slip when pulling away, I though I would try and see how many miles I could get and it all became a challenge at the end to see what would go first. The cassett still shifted fine the main wear was on 3rd to 7th as you would expect.

    I currently have a CX bike with Ultegra with just over 4000 miles on it, it went into a shop last year with 2500 miles on and I was advised it needed a chain and cassett as they were worn. So far it is still going, I know it wont get 10k miles but I think it will easy do 6 to 7k, not bad for a CX bike that spends a lot of its time along old railway lines in the rain and even racing.

    Still not worked out what is the most cost effective way of running a bike, might try the new chain at 2k method on my other road bike as it is just passed 2k yesterday and see how many miles the cassette and rings will do with a chain every 2k.

    Rich...
  • alex222
    alex222 Posts: 598
    I just changed my chain after 1800 miles, as it was over 0.75 worn according to my chain checker. Seems like that is a lot less than those above.

    Thought I was looking after it with fairly regular cleaning and lubing (after every 4-5 rides) so thought it would last a bit longer. But have been out in all conditions as I also use it on my commute. Hopefully chain on the soon to arrive new summer bike will last a fair bit longer.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    I use the simple and possibly conservative Park Tool chain wear checker and replace at 0.75% wear. Despite regular cleaning and lubrication I only get about 1500 miles to a chain but at 6000 miles am still on the original 105 cassette. Probably going to replace chain and cassette next time. That's the bike that's been ridden all year round and frequently in the wet.

    At the other extreme I had a MTB which still had all it's original drivetrain after 10 years, at which point it was stolen.
  • lewiskinch
    lewiskinch Posts: 94
    Just because it is "still going strong" doesn't mean it doesn't need replacing. Well, maybe not need, but should be replaced. about 2000 miles for a chain, then replace. It will save your cassette, as once the chain stretches it will not sit properly on the chainrings/cassette and cause them to wear quickly.
  • briantrumpet
    briantrumpet Posts: 20,481
    I'll admit that my commuting bike gets essentially 'breakdown maintenance'. But probably it's best to replace the cassette before the chain whip won't actually stay on the cassette because it's so worn. Oops. Got there eventually, but it took a while. Chain, chainring and cassette replaced for under £30, and now it's less likely I'll fall off, as the gears shouldn't be slipping now.
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  • al_kidder
    al_kidder Posts: 73
    I don't know if I'm just lucky, but the first two chains and cassettes on my bike lasted 25000 km each. That is Shimano 105. Cleaned monthly and oiled fortnightly. ie 2000/1000 km roughly. The only advantage I would guess that I have over most of you is dry weather and roads. And I wait until the chain starts jumping before I bother

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