I'm thinking I should be pumping it up slowly, massaging the tyre as I go? Making sure it goes on evenly... this isn't standard practice though, is it?
Lots of things, from cheap shite tyres with poor manufacturing, steel bead ones that have been folded at the bead and need straightening to poor fitment.
Given yours were flipped for shipping you need to check with the tyre off that the bead hasn't been kinked and straighten if it has, if not if it's a bend in it can cause a puncture by chafing the tube anyway.
I'm thinking I should be pumping it up slowly, massaging the tyre as I go? Making sure it goes on evenly... this isn't standard practice though, is it?
Seated means the tyre bead( the rim of the tyre) is sitting straight into the wheel rim. The wheel rim will be a clincher it has a hook that grips the tyre bead but sometimes the tyre bead is deformed or the inner tube/rim tape is caught and stops the bead going in.
Fig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap
I have invested in a floor pump with pressure gauge, should help me better than that mini handheld affair.
Haven't used the new pump yet, but I can sort of see the problem why the tyres are wobbly...
My tyres have crosshatching all round, and 2 parallel lines going round them... I can see that these lines are flush all the way round when pumped up, except for one little section where it dips below, into the rim - and so the tyre is out of whack.
What may be the reason for the parallel lines not staying flush to the rim all the way round?!
It seems to happen on both wheels...
Max pressure on the Magic Mary tyre seems to be 50 PSI.
The tube is Continental MTB 26 Tube 26", 1.75 - 2.5", 60mm Valve, Presta,
The tube just stops air leaks, it has no structural strength.
What does that mean?
I have refitted the tyres a few times (tried talcum powder also), still the same problem on both wheels. Surely there must be a specific reason for this to happen consistently?
I just need the 2 parallel lines to pop out at one little section (they dip down below the rim for about 2-3cm) and the entire tyre would be flush, and without wobble, presumably...
Don't know what PSI I was pumping to with the little pump, but the tyres were pretty solid.
What causes wobbly tyres? (when you spin them, bike upside down) and the wheel itself is fine and doesn't waver.
Something similar happened to me and on closer inspection it turned out to be a knackered tyre sidewall (at the area closest to the rim). The tyre was bulging slightly along this weakened section, so when spinning and viewed from above it appeared as though the wheel needed truing. Those tyres got promptly put in the bin.
rubez
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I'm thinking I should be pumping it up slowly, massaging the tyre as I go? Making sure it goes on evenly... this isn't standard practice though, is it?
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
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Parktools
You could see they were a bit out of shape, I thought once the tyres were pumped up, that would iron out the wrinkles...
Given yours were flipped for shipping you need to check with the tyre off that the bead hasn't been kinked and straighten if it has, if not if it's a bend in it can cause a puncture by chafing the tube anyway.
retired 9.6kg Carrera Kraken
The Carrera Hardtail combined thread - come on all you Carrera's!
The Sons Scott Genius RC20 build
I heard talc powder helps get the tye even when fitting, so I'll try that too.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools
Seated means the tyre bead( the rim of the tyre) is sitting straight into the wheel rim. The wheel rim will be a clincher it has a hook that grips the tyre bead but sometimes the tyre bead is deformed or the inner tube/rim tape is caught and stops the bead going in.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools
You good try using Google a bit rather than asking dumbass questions, or overcome your phobia and try Parktools.
retired 9.6kg Carrera Kraken
The Carrera Hardtail combined thread - come on all you Carrera's!
The Sons Scott Genius RC20 build
Post a couple of piccies so people can see what you're talking about and maybe offer meaningful advice.
And it all promised so so much”
Giant Trance 2 27.5 2016 ¦ Sonder Broken Road 2021¦ Bird Zero Mk1 ¦ Giant Revolt Advanced 2 2019 ¦ Giant Anthem 3 2015 ¦ Specialized Myka Comp FSR 2009
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools
That sometimes happens when I sit down. I blame my age (or Wiggle)
Duster
My Bianchi
Haven't used the new pump yet, but I can sort of see the problem why the tyres are wobbly...
My tyres have crosshatching all round, and 2 parallel lines going round them... I can see that these lines are flush all the way round when pumped up, except for one little section where it dips below, into the rim - and so the tyre is out of whack.
What may be the reason for the parallel lines not staying flush to the rim all the way round?!
It seems to happen on both wheels...
Max pressure on the Magic Mary tyre seems to be 50 PSI.
The tube is Continental MTB 26 Tube 26", 1.75 - 2.5", 60mm Valve, Presta,
Any ideas?
I would dismount the tyre and rotate round the rim a bit, check no kinks in the bead and refit.
retired 9.6kg Carrera Kraken
The Carrera Hardtail combined thread - come on all you Carrera's!
The Sons Scott Genius RC20 build
What does that mean?
I have refitted the tyres a few times (tried talcum powder also), still the same problem on both wheels. Surely there must be a specific reason for this to happen consistently?
I just need the 2 parallel lines to pop out at one little section (they dip down below the rim for about 2-3cm) and the entire tyre would be flush, and without wobble, presumably...
Don't know what PSI I was pumping to with the little pump, but the tyres were pretty solid.
Will pump up to 50 PSI next time.
Does my tube specs sound OK?
retired 9.6kg Carrera Kraken
The Carrera Hardtail combined thread - come on all you Carrera's!
The Sons Scott Genius RC20 build
Something similar happened to me and on closer inspection it turned out to be a knackered tyre sidewall (at the area closest to the rim). The tyre was bulging slightly along this weakened section, so when spinning and viewed from above it appeared as though the wheel needed truing. Those tyres got promptly put in the bin.
run some fairy liquid round the bead and the seat, and then whack it up to 50/60 psi..
all should sit in..
if it fails... give up
Just waiting on a new derailleur and I have to set up front and rear gears and thats me done
Got two spare Chainreaction £10-off codes if anyone wants, they are only valid for a few more days probably. Don't think they are tied to my account.