Internal Cable snagging...please help!!

Mccraque

Help! Gear issues on my ON-ONE Race 29. Seems to be that the internally routed cables are snagging in the frame. My LBS has tried to blast through with air and lube...but they're still sticking. New Cables, new outers (which end at the frame rather than being routed all the way through the frame) - but the problem being that the snagged cable refuses to drop - losing me the bottom cog or two on the cassette.

Anyone experienced anything like this? Any solutions? Thanks

brant@on-one.co.uk

Might be worth trying very thin cables.

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/transfil-gear-cable-inner/

Mccraque

Thanks Brant - The guys in the shop have tried that, but to no avail. There's a definite friction of the cable running through the frame still. What's in there? Is it a thin sleeve?

Any other thoughts? I'm keep to try as much as I can before sending it back to you guys!

Mccraque

as an fyi - the thinner cable was 1.1mm...

Cqc

Full length outer?

coulddobetter

I have read somewhere that lengths of thin welding rod can be used to clear obstruction . However if it's down to an internal frame fault I would be inclined to ask for a new frame.i don't know how my own boardman frame is set up internally ( it has only part outer cables too ) I was concerned re cable change but it was easy .

Following courtesy of bikeradar.

4 Cyclist's little helper

Carbon frames can be difficult, especially those with no internal guides, because of the debris left behind by the manufacturing process; bits of plastic bladder, uncompressed strips of carbon and other obstacles will conspire to block the cable’s path. A length of welding rod makes the perfect cyclist’s helper for threading through cables.

Available from any good engineering or hardware supply store, a 1.6mm copper rod will set you back 20p for a length about 3ft/1m long. A stretch of Teflon liner salvaged from a brake outer kit will fit perfectly over the rod, and can be threaded through the frame as pictured below. With the liner in place, you can then run an inner wire through it.

Mccraque

Thanks - although the problem isnt with getting the cable through the frame...it seems to be the rough running once it's through. As far as I can tell, there's a sleeve that runs the length of the frame and that seems to be somehow impeding the cable.

There wouldn't be room to shove a further sleeve in ....

Cqc

I mean full length outer routed outside the frame with sugru or stick on cable guides

Mccraque

Exactly what I have done...but now have two redundant holes on my frame which I don't like!

Cqc

Sugru them up

sanchez89

incredible, a few weeks ago i was having exactly the same problem on my race 29er.

i sent it back to on one and they said the slx mech that was on there had a weak stretched spring and the cables were a bit sticky.

they cleaned through and fitted a new XT clutch mech which has improved the shifting a bit, new SP41 inners, SP51 outers and a good blast through with teflon lube i believe (TF2 etc.)

but the shifting still isnt perfect, it was spot on when it was new so there still must be friction in there somewhere. but unless they run out of options totally i doubt they would replace the frame.

worth contacting them though and getting their opinion on it. i think a couple of people have had problems with them

Mccraque

Thanks Sanchez - good to know...

I did contact On-One...they suggested sending it back.

The new Outers weren't right the way through the frame though were they? Just from the shifter to the frame, and from where it exits the frame to the mech itself?

May I ask what shifting issues you were having? all the way through the range or just missing the bottom cogs?

Mine is missing the bottom cogs unless I have the cable so loose that it will then no longer (at the other end of the range) have enough pull to get the mech into the bigger rings.

The Rookie

Mccraque wrote:

Mine is missing the bottom cogs unless I have the cable so loose that it will then no longer (at the other end of the range) have enough pull to get the mech into the bigger rings.

Argh, that will be the top (smallest) cogs then not the bottom (largest) ones.

I would suggest as mentioned using a stiff wire to try and remove debris but it does sound like the internal part (acting as outer) is failing and clogging, maybe lots of grease in there would help.

sanchez89

Mccraque wrote:

Thanks Sanchez - good to know...

I did contact On-One...they suggested sending it back.

The new Outers weren't right the way through the frame though were they? Just from the shifter to the frame, and from where it exits the frame to the mech itself?

May I ask what shifting issues you were having? all the way through the range or just missing the bottom cogs?

Mine is missing the bottom cogs unless I have the cable so loose that it will then no longer (at the other end of the range) have enough pull to get the mech into the bigger rings.

sorry mate only just seen this post.

on mine it was sticking on gears 7/8 on the way up the cassette, meaning when i shifted into what should be gear 1 it was actually gear 2.

on the way back down the block it would stick again and miss out gear 10.

as you said you could set the tension high to get all gears correct upshifting but downshifting was rubbish, and vise versa on set tension loose.

with regards to the outers yes it was just the shifter to frame and frame to mech.

i do need to eventually get round to sticking full length outer on the outside of the frame to see if the shifting is back to how it should be

sanchez89

old thread again but finally sorted it,

ran a full length outer cable down the frame, works spot on, so defo internal routing that is full of cack.