Chain cleaning

markiegrim
markiegrim Posts: 136
edited May 2014 in Road beginners
Has anyone used this stuff?

http://www.fenwicks.info/bike/index.php ... in-cleaner

It's what LBS recommended I buy when I bought the bike. I use it with sponge thing with a v groove cut in. However while it cleans sides of chain, it does not get gunk out from between the links. Neither does using a toothbrush particularly

Would a chain cleaning tool be better? The degreaser seems pretty pricey (as does the tool) and are the brushes in the tool any more effective?

Not fussed about removing chain, soaking, etc

Ta

Comments

  • dj58
    dj58 Posts: 2,217
    Hi, have a read through this page http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    FlacVest wrote:

    And when the supplied cleaner is exhausted, by a 5 litre bottle of degreaser from B&Q for £7 to replace it. Will cover you for a few tens of thousands of miles.

    Still, the above chain cleaner, though mine is still going strong after over 40,000 miles of cycling in the last 5 years or so, is not a substitute for removing the chain every so often to properly clean it.
    Faster than a tent.......
  • BrandonA
    BrandonA Posts: 553
    I like to use a chain bath first.

    I then use the Fenwick product for a second clean. I particularly like this for getting the front chain rings clean. My negative to it is that if the chain is dirty you get tonnes of crap on your hands when you spin the chain through their special sponge. This is why I use a chain bath first as it get most of the junk off beforehand.
  • ic.
    ic. Posts: 769
    I use a Park Tools Chain Gang. Seems better than anything else I've tried. I used to take the chain off every time but now I've moved to 11 speed there's no re-useable quick link available so I tried the Chain Gang with some industrial strength degreaser found on eBay and been very impressed
    2020 Reilly Spectre - raw titanium
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  • drlodge
    drlodge Posts: 4,826
    I use all the above :-)

    Fenwicks foam chain cleaner and the yellow rough sponge thing for regular cleaning, the foam isn't very harsh so cleaning grease is difficult, but for thinner lubes and dirt it works fine. I use the Park blue cassette brush too.

    Every once in a while I'll use the chain bath for a really good clean.

    BTW I also use the KMC 11s quicklink and have resued it many times with no issues.
    WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
    Find me on Strava
  • IrishMac
    IrishMac Posts: 328
    Get a split link so the chain is easy to remove, remove it and let it soak in white spirit over night then scrub it well in the morning, put back on bike and lube.
    Also works with cassettes and chainrings, but don't lube them :)
    Member of Cuchulainn C.C. @badcyclist

    Raleigh SP Race
    Trek 1.2
  • Initialised
    Initialised Posts: 3,047
    I use KMC chains, best quick link I've found, run them on factory lube until it needs more, then take it off, clean it in an ultrasonic scrubber (look it up) in white spirit or methanol.

    While the ultrasonic scrubber and degreaser are doing their thing heat up some one part candlewax, one part vaseline with a liberal squirt of GT85 in a tub inside a pot of boiling water.

    Wipe the chain down and allow it to dry, if using methanol just burn it off, turps and methylated spirit don't burn clean enough so leave to dry.

    Hook a paperclip/spoke/coat hanger through one end of the chain.

    Liberally coat the chain with GT85 allow the solvent to evaporate and drop into the melted wax, leave it for a while until it stops bubbling.

    Remove from heat.

    In the meantime make sure your cassette, jockey wheels and rings are clean and dry.

    Remove the chain and wipe off excess wax.

    Hang until the wax has set.

    Now you should have a layer of wax between the rollers and pins and the rollers and pins will be Telfon coated (from the GT85).

    Your drive train should stay nice and clean without the dirty black build up you get from oil based lube and wear should be greatly reduced.

    Repeat the process when the chain gets noisy but you don't need to clean the chain first, the wax will drag contaminants to the surface as it melts.

    For deep winter/sub zero conditions use Zardoz instead of vaseline and GT85.
    I used to just ride my bike to work but now I find myself going out looking for bigger and bigger hills.
  • drlodge
    drlodge Posts: 4,826
    Sounds like a right faff to me.
    WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
    Find me on Strava
  • markiegrim
    markiegrim Posts: 136
    Faff indeed, but appreciate all above replies

    However, my original post ..."Not fussed about removing chain, soaking, etc"

    Really wanted a view on efficiacy of chain cleaning tools v fenwicks foam and a toothbrush

    I'll probably do a bit of both
  • drlodge
    drlodge Posts: 4,826
    Bottom line for me...Fenwicks foam and a stiff brush is good as long as your chain lube is quite thin. When I put on a new chain which had quite thick grease, it really took some cleaning. The lube then mixed with the grease and its all mixed in a far easier to clean now.
    WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
    Find me on Strava
  • Initialised
    Initialised Posts: 3,047
    drlodge wrote:
    Sounds like a right faff to me.
    Is a faff but it lasts for ages and reduces chains and cassette wear because the dirt just bounces off.
    I used to just ride my bike to work but now I find myself going out looking for bigger and bigger hills.